Definitely has cool factor. Looks hell for stout. Probably have to reprofile the edge to a steeper angle.
The trouble with all these sawbacks on sporting knives is the width of the kerf. Even the best tooth design cannot overcome the problem because the wide kerf necessitates removing more material than necessary for a given cut. This translates to a considerable increase in effort and time over a good saw of the same length.
Efficient hand saws are narrow and wide. They use thin stock and partially compensate for excessive flex by widening the blade. The kerf of the teeth need only be as wide as the blade to let the blade through the cut. The narrower the kerf, the less material removed from the cut and the less time and effort required.
Sawbacks for wood on a sporting knife must have a wide kerf to to let the blade through the cut. So they are relatively inefficient.
If you look at the wood saw blade of a SAK or multitool, you will see it is thinner stock than the knife blade. This is to reduce the kerf and make it a more efficient cutter. On a relatively thick sporting or wilderness knife, a sawback for wood must have wide teeth (a thick kerf) which makes sawing wasteful of time and energy.