loose bolster

K

kremeking

Joined
Feb 15, 2001
Messages
70
Hi All,

I have a question that I hope one of you gentlemen might be able to answer. I was doing some light cleaning today on my 20" ang Khola and noticed that the bolster was loose.
It can actually be shaken from side to side. This is my favorite Khuk and I wonder what I can do to remedy this problem. The spaces on either side of the blade are minimal so that I cannot effectively squeeze any epoxy into the gap. What do you professionals suggest?
I have had this one for approximately 2 years and have grown fond of it. Hate to see it deteriorate. By the way, the bolster is the old style, Not a habaki style bolster. Made by Sanu. I would deeply appreciate any help.
 
Originally posted by Bill Martino:
Krem, you may be able to pry the bolster open just enough to squirt some epoxy into it with a syringe.

Krem:
If you have access to one, the small "throwaway" syringe used for insulin should have a thin enough needle to apply epoxy without prying. Pharmacys have them,but usually in packs of 100 or more, and not without a prescription. If you can find a friend who uses them, this would be the best source. I was switched to Glynase tabs a couple yrs. ago, and have regretted not holding on to a couple ever since.
Click to expand...
 
To ad to Wal's excellent suggestion, you can buy syringes from any farm feed & supply store for giving antibiotics and vacccines to livestock. A sturdy needle is nice. Also you can thin the epoxy with acetone if you have to, just get it where you can draw it up and squeeze it out of the syringe.

Stephen
 
Epoxy and glues does not stick well to brass but it does hold steel and wood together well.

I would first try to melt the Himalayan epoxy and see if it will bond back to the brass. Try heating the brass up with the heavy duty hair dryer they use for shrink tubing. This may get the suface hot enough to melt the epoxy. Try to keep the heat away from the wood.

Second I would try to inject clear epoxy between the wood and boster with a syringe. On the blade side I would put a bead of steel epoxy (grey). Before applying the epoxy polish the bolster surface (where the epoxy will go) with 280 grit sand paper and immediately apply the epoxy.

As a last resort the boster and Himalayan epoxy can be removed and a new bolster made from steel filled epoxy.

Will

Will
 
Thanks to all of you brothers. I will attempt some of these remedies, though I don't have much faith in the syringe idea. I tried that earlier in the month to fix another problem with one of my khuks and couldn't get the epoxy to come out through the needle. Just hardened in the syringe. I will try thinning it out as suggested and report back on my progress. Thanks Uncle for the option you provided. He is truly a man of integrity(Bill). By the way Uncle, something on its way to you.


Shalom
 
Kremeking, I know what you mean about epoxy and syringes. Here are some things that have helped me lots: Using a quick set epoxy does just that right in the syringe. But one with a long working time (say 24 hrs) will give you all the time you need, and it seems to me that it flows better if warm. And there is a big difference in brand names and quality.

Yes, the insulin syringe can work really well, depnding on glue consistency. The ones I've used are 28 gauge. If you need more than 1cc, a bigger syringe might do better (say 3cc), but I would suggest getting the type with the screw-on tip (Luer). The friction type tip can send the needle like a blow gun, and glue where you don't want it.

Another thing I've learned the hard way is to pull the plunger, put on the needle, pour the glue in, put the plunger in just enough to engage, and invert the whole shootin' match so the tip is up. Work the bubbles out and you're good to go with pure glue.

Both the length and gauge of the needle are important. The above mentioned glue will travel needles as small as 25 gauge if short, but not always if as long as a 3 1/2" spinal. The bigger the gauge (smaller #), the easier it works. I think I've used them as small as 27 gauge, but it's been awhile. 30 gauge has been too small.

lastly, the smaller the suringe used, the more leverage you'll have to force the glue thru the bore. The only trouble is that little plungers can bend, but if it's a problem you can pull off the plunger head and use a dowell or piece of round metal stock to push it.

Now, if somebody could just tell me how to get CA into those super-fine handle cracks! Hope this is helpful to somebody out there....Dan
 
:
I have found that super glues melt the Nepalese Laha usually.
The best I have found is the Bondini2 brand at Walmart.
I fixed a loose bolster and butt cap this morning with it.
And it's thin enough to run into the crevases that a loose bolster or butt cap normally have.

The Bondini2 lives up to what it says about being able to use it on dirty or oily surfaces. I was mightily Surprised and Impressed!!!
biggrin.gif


------------------
Yvsa-G@WebTV.net

"VEGETARIAN".............
Indin word for lousy hunter.
 
thanks for the info dan I'll use it to my advantage to repair this problem. I guess I'll give this syringe thing one more chance, though after looking at my cherished angkhola again last night I still see no way of inserting a syringe as the tolerance are extremely tight and I really don't want to ben the bolster edge out. But I will figure a way to get it done.

Shalom
 
Kremeking, I only hope the info helps somehow. I wonder...if the bolster is loose, can you heat it up with a blowdryer and loosen it enough to squirt in from the handle side.

Yet another thing I've learned the hard way is that if glue gets in between the needle hub and syringe tip, it will act as a lubricant, preventing a solid connection (another reason to use a Luer tip). That's how loading from the plunger end evolved. I usually mix the epoxy on thick paper and bend it to form a trough so the mixing stick can push it into the syringe barrel. I've gotten over trying to make the syringe full and making a big mess.

If you want to try a variety of needle gauges/syringes, etc, just e-mail be with your wants and a shipping address. The same offer stands for all forumites. The stuff will be clean but unsterile, and would have been OR trash. I can't think of a higher recycling cause!!

Yvsa, I'm glad you mentioned WalMart as the source for Bondini2. I'm trying to get a list together for the best glues, and ever since you mentioned it I've been unable to find it. Funny how every time I've been there that I've forgotten to check. Thank you very much, and I hope your trip is a safe and blessed one.

Glad to serve....Dan
 
I for one am very thankful to Lt. Dan, Will, Yvsa, and everyone else who posted helpful info here. I have a loose bolster on my Bura UBE in need of repair and this info is very timely for me. Thanks to all of you and to my fellow Huntsvillian Kremeking for asking.
 
Like Lt. Dan saids use the slow setting epoxy. It is easier to work with. Make sure you give the epoxy time to cure time.

The stuff I use is has a working time of 30 minutes and is a Home Hardware. Walmart seems to have simlar epoxy. It is really runny and syringe friendly.

Yvsa sticks to oily and dirty surfaces. I will have to give it a try.

Will
 
thanks one and all for all the timely information and wisdom despensed for my benefit. X-head, hope to meet you soon, funny that we haven't met up in this small city of ours. Beloved as it may be. Has anyone heard from Khukman? I've called a couple of times but can't seem to put my finger on him. Hope all is well. I will try to use the info to my advantage for this bolster challenge. Thanks all.
 
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