Lost Benchmade Griptilian - Need Recomendations for a Cheaper EDC

When I first got into knives I wanted a mini griptilian but didn't want to spend that much on a knife, so I bought a kershaw clash, kershaw cryo, and a spyderco tenacious. I eventually bought the mini grip and sold the clash and tenacious at a loss. What I'm saying is get what you will be happy with it will save you money in the long run, if you love the griptilian get it, you have just as much of a chance losing a cheaper knife that you will have to replace anyway. If your last one lasted two years that's money well spent I'd say, and I'm cheap lol.
 
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Hackenslash said:
This isn't my first Buck to come "less than right". It does mean something. So do the numerous comments from other knife knuts about poor fit and finish from Buck. I certainly understand that the exception can happen, as in your Spyderco above, but in my experience with the Vantage, good fit and finish IS the exception.

I could send it back, but it's a $40 knife. Is that worth it? It's far easier for me to learn from a mistake and stop buying Bucks and not recommend Buck Vantage to others.

Be happy! It means more Bucks for you!
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I'm fine with your opinion and observations. I did some creeping on you and it looks like you are more into nice knives in a collection. The OP is looking for a worker. When you get into $200.00 plus knives the vantage will always be less than right compared to one, unless you are going to run it into the ground. Neither will last much longer than a few years.

So that leaves me to ask exactly what it is that is not "right" with yours other than you paid 2x the normal retail of one.
 
Velitrius said:
Kershaw Leek tip seems to be prone to breaking?

From whence did you come to this observation?

Haven't broken mine. Son hasn't broken his.

Get one. You'll get another when you lose it.
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If the tip breaks kershaw will replace it.
 
Duane Sanders said:
I'm fine with your opinion and observations. I did some creeping on you and it looks like you are more into nice knives in a collection. The OP is looking for a worker. When you get into $200.00 plus knives the vantage will always be less than right compared to one, unless you are going to run it into the ground. Neither will last much longer than a few years.

So that leaves me to ask exactly what it is that is not "right" with yours other than you paid 2x the normal retail of one.
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Well, I actually paid $34 for mine. Not sure where you find them for $20.

The biggest problem with the knife is centering. The blade rubs against the presentation side to the point of marking the swedge. That's not easy to do with such a high, hollow grind. Adjusting the pivot only made it worse.
With the blade so far off center, you can imagine it deploys miserably one-handed.
The spine of the blade has chips in it. Not sure how they got there, but they're there.
The SS liner on the presentation side doesn't match the FRN handle and there's a gouge in it
This model has the "wood" inlays in the FRN and one is warped and the other fits so poorly it protrudes around the pivot.

You are correct, I do use more expensive knives, but I can still tell a good, high value knife when I see one. There are many, many other knives in the sub $50 price range that are better. It's possible that a "perfect" Vantage could be a decent knife but of the half-dozen or so I've seen and handled, only one would qualify as acceptable fit and finish. That kind of batting average doesn't last long in the big leagues.

The OP stands a much better chance of finding a good user with some of the other value knives mentioned in this thread. My suggestion wasn't a $200 knife, it was the ~$30 RealSteel H6-S1. Try one out, it'll destroy the Vantage on every metric.

I'm not sure why it matters to you that I don't care for and can't suggest a particular knife that you like.
 
Hackenslash said:
Well, I actually paid $34 for mine. Not sure where you find them for $20.

The biggest problem with the knife is centering. The blade rubs against the presentation side to the point of marking the swedge. That's not easy to do with such a high, hollow grind. Adjusting the pivot only made it worse.
With the blade so far off center, you can imagine it deploys miserably one-handed.
The spine of the blade has chips in it. Not sure how they got there, but they're there.
The SS liner on the presentation side doesn't match the FRN handle and there's a gouge in it
This model has the "wood" inlays in the FRN and one is warped and the other fits so poorly it protrudes around the pivot.

You are correct, I do use more expensive knives, but I can still tell a good, high value knife when I see one. There are many, many other knives in the sub $50 price range that are better. It's possible that a "perfect" Vantage could be a decent knife but of the half-dozen or so I've seen and handled, only one would qualify as acceptable fit and finish. That kind of batting average doesn't last long in the big leagues.

The OP stands a much better chance of finding a good user with some of the other value knives mentioned in this thread. My suggestion wasn't a $200 knife, it was the ~$30 RealSteel H6-S1. Try one out, it'll destroy the Vantage on every metric.

I'm not sure why it matters to you that I don't care for and can't suggest a particular knife that you like.
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Instead of tightening the pivot try loosening it. The vantage is one of the easiest designs to adjust centering on I've ever seen. After that the minor cosmetic issues won't mean much in the pocket or in hand when using it. They aren't made to be lookers.

It doesn't matter to me. I'm just pointing out they are not as bad as you make them out to be. As a working knife they will give as many years as knives costing (but looking better) more doing knife stuff.

I believe you on the H6-S1. Believe me, if you take that T6 and back off that pivot pin it will center just fine. It will be a great little knife tool after that.

I'm sure they aren't as good as your other knives. One thing about the design is it is so slim between the liners that it don't leave much room for the blade, so what would not be noticed on other designs as far as centering goes, it will look bad on the vantage.

For the price, the quality of the blade steel and being USA made its perfectly acceptable to break out the T6 and make it centered. Almost all of them need a slight tweak tighter or a bit more loose. Which btw, slightly loosening the vantage makes no difference for the small amount you loosen as far as blade tightness is. The very tiny bit you loosen it will not effect rock solid no play lock up.
 
Hackenslash said:
Well, I actually paid $34 for mine. Not sure where you find them for $20.

The biggest problem with the knife is centering. The blade rubs against the presentation side to the point of marking the swedge. That's not easy to do with such a high, hollow grind. Adjusting the pivot only made it worse.
With the blade so far off center, you can imagine it deploys miserably one-handed.
The spine of the blade has chips in it. Not sure how they got there, but they're there.
The SS liner on the presentation side doesn't match the FRN handle and there's a gouge in it
This model has the "wood" inlays in the FRN and one is warped and the other fits so poorly it protrudes around the pivot.

You are correct, I do use more expensive knives, but I can still tell a good, high value knife when I see one. There are many, many other knives in the sub $50 price range that are better. It's possible that a "perfect" Vantage could be a decent knife but of the half-dozen or so I've seen and handled, only one would qualify as acceptable fit and finish. That kind of batting average doesn't last long in the big leagues.

The OP stands a much better chance of finding a good user with some of the other value knives mentioned in this thread. My suggestion wasn't a $200 knife, it was the ~$30 RealSteel H6-S1. Try one out, it'll destroy the Vantage on every metric.

I'm not sure why it matters to you that I don't care for and can't suggest a particular knife that you like.
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The other knife I came across was the Spyderco Manix 2 XL that seemed pretty nice. More than I wanted to spend at $90 but how dose it comparison to the Griptilian? I like the Griptilian a lot but something in me also wants to try something a different.
 
I'm a little confused with the logic behind all this...

He has been carrying knives for 20'ish years and this is his first knife he has lost in that span of time and thus wants a cheap knife for the next 20 years in case he loses it again?

I for one would rather enjoy all kinds of knives regardless of price points for the next 20 years instead of restricting myself to a singular cheap knife.

Variety is the spice of life!
 
LadyEarth said:
I'm a little confused with the logic behind all this...

He has been carrying knives for 20'ish years and this is his first knife he has lost in that span of time and thus wants a cheap knife for the next 20 years in case he loses it again?

I for one would rather enjoy all kinds of knives regardless of price points for the next 20 years instead of restricting myself to a singular cheap knife.

Variety is the spice of life!
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Basicly I just am afraid to lose another expensive knife. I litterly have no clue where and how I lost my last one. But yes I am now looking at getting something a bit expensive again. I am looking at the Spyderco Manix XL, any thoughts? How is it vs the Griptilian?
 
There's lots of Kershaws that look good. There are the ones with the Emerson's wave on it now (the CQC-5K & 6K both look good, specifically). About $30, although I tend toward lockbacks more than linerlocks.
 
My answers will be simple:

Kershaw: All the knives USA made
Zero Tolerance
Benchmade
Spyderco

As long as it's USA made, those would be what I suggest. The blade design, handle design, overall performance is up to you as you know your hand and your personal needs best.

That being said, you also have the option of custom ordering a better pocket clip that will be a lot more snug than what those knives can offer in it's original form.

Best of luck!
 
If the plastic-y feel of the Griptilian handle scales didn't bother you, maybe consider the LightWeight Manix 2.
It's just a little over half the price of the Manix 2 XL.
I don't have experience with Spyderco's BD-1 steel, but it's gotta be better than the steel on the Tenacious...

Then again, for around that price, $79, you might be able to find a replacement Griptilian.
 
Rasco said:
If the plastic-y feel of the Griptilian handle scales didn't bother you, maybe consider the LightWeight Manix 2.
It's just a little over half the price of the Manix 2 XL.
I don't have experience with Spyderco's BD-1 steel, but it's gotta be better than the steel on the Tenacious...

Then again, for around that price, $79, you might be able to find a replacement Griptilian.
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I am looking at the Manix really hard right now as something to change it up from the Griptilian. I am thinking the Manix 2 or the XL version. I like the XL a bit more just not sure if it will be goofy big.

Right now sports athority has the Manix 2 XL on sale for $81 with a coupon code for 25% off.
 
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