LOTS of questions from a newbie

N

Nicholas

Joined
Apr 1, 2009
Messages
896
Good morning, everyone:

I'm a newfound fan with my eye on an M-43, and I have oodles of disparate questions on khukuri use, maintenance, etc. I'd love some advice from more advanced Khukurites.

First about me: my name really *is* Nicholas (it wasn't taken, but the weird variants were!), and I'm a 34-year-old-resident of Austin bushwhacking a new course through life, getting started on a path of wilderness adventure and travel which, I see with 20/20 hindsight, I should have started on 20 years ago! I'm also a CAD drafter trying to get started in the filed of "green" design, and that's what brought me around to Khukuris.

You see, since I saw The Last of the Mohicans as a kid, I was fascinated by hatchets and tomahawks, and always wanted to carry more than a knife out in the Wild Frontier. But recently, while working an internship here in Austin, I was involved in a land-clearing project that taught me the value of another good tool: the humble machete. Unable to decide between the two, I suddenly remembered a favorite survival manual (Hugh McManners' The Complete Wilderness Survival Handbook), which recommended the Khukuri as the best combination of both....and of several other tools, as well!

I always liked Khukuris. tales of their cutting power and versatility were enthralling, and ever since I was a kid, I'd unconsciously wondered why blades always curved back, instead of forward. And it has such fascinating history. In any case, it seems to be applicable for everything I plan on doing: hunting, gardening, camping, world travel, conversation starter, etc.
After investigating the various makes, I found myself VERY comfortable with the quality, styling, values, and community of Himalayan Imports, regretting only that I won't have the chance to meet Uncle Bill. I've decided on an M-43, after some pondering, on account of the panawal construction and curved handle, plus a preference for the military blade style. It's a big sucker, but at 6'1" and 185 lbs., I think that I can manage it.

It'll be a short while before I can place that order (money's tight), but beforehand, I had several questions:

A) Edges - I need to get some things straight about how to sharpen this thing. If I understand correctly, these blades are sharpened on a kind of "three-zone" system: the first few inches near the tip ("Zone 1"?), and the near-handle area (Zone 3), are kept sharper than the widest part of the belly (Zone 2), which is kept only to the sharpness of a good hatchet, say, "3 out of 5 stars" on the sharpness scale. I also understand that the tip and the belly have convex grinds, while the near-handle area is flat-ground (or is it hollow-ground?) So, how sharp are the Zones 1 and 3: is the tip sharper, or the near-handle area? Are we talking 4 or 5 stars?

B) Sharpening - I am a novice to sharpening, and although we have a good sharpening service available here, it would be far more expedient if I could do it myself. On hand, I have a 3-stone sharpener (rough, medium, and fine stones on one mount), a stropping leather and jeweler's rouge, and a butcher's steel. I *can* cut up an old mousepad, and I'm sure that sandpaper can be purchased, but how do I go about sharpening the Khuk with what I have?

C) False Edges - Is there any point to having a sharpened back edge on Khukuri, particularly the curved profile of an M-43?

There's a few more things that I'm curious about, but I'll start with these.
 
Welcome, Nicholas:)

You'll love the M-43. I don't think you'll have a problem swinging it. I'm around 5'11 175lbs, and the M-43 is one of my go-to khuks:thumbup:

As far as the edge goes, the entire length of the blade should be convexed. The only differences in tip to cho (the little notch thingie at the base of the blade) is that of edge hardness. Your tip is going to be slightly softer to absorb impacts with dirt and rocks. About 2-3" back you are going to have a sweet spot that goes for most of the belly that is the hardest steel for edge retention. the inner curve is also generally softer than the sweet spot. this area doesn't see much action anyway;)

Sharpening just takes a bit of practice. Many forumites like belt sanders, and they can get their khuks scary sharp. I generally use stones, mouse pads with sandpaper, ceramic sticks, and an old belt loaded as a strop. when i get done, the whole edge will readily shave hair. Check out the FAQ sticky thread at the top of the page for more sharpening ideas:thumbup:

A false edge really isn't going to gain you much with this design in my opinion. The M-43 is a pretty pointy khuk to begin with. Now, one of the regular guys did grind a false edge onto his WWII and seemed to like it. However, the WWII models are more bullnosed at the tip.

Feel free to ask away about anything:) We love having new folks stop in and join us for a talk:):thumbup:

Welcome!
 
Hey Nicholas. If you are referring to Austin, TX, and are still there, I have a growing pile of HI products and a belt sander I use to get the first edge on them. **Removed unintentional spam**

Sorry, man, only paying members can advertise their stuff on these boards in the designated areas ~Steely~
 
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Heh, I may have misread your post, Boudreaux:o. Where you offering a try before you buy to help him choose a blade to get from Yangdu or to sell him one?
 
I guess i'll weight in. I've been looking into sharpening all week ever since discovering my kerambit was on the dull side.

-There are a TON of good, top notch videos on youtube detailing how to sharpen convex edges using every method from sandpaper on mouse pad, to leather strop.
-False edges do work, my kerambit actually came with one on it, and it would definitely be worth putting on a few of the more upturned and point khuks (UBE comes to mind).
-I'm not an expert by any means, but all i've heard suggests that attempting to sharpen a convex edge with a stone is going to end rather badly unless you are a knife sharpening guru.

Along such topics.... I currently have little to sharpen with. Could someone explain exactly what i need to do to make a leather strop from an old belt or something? How subtle does the leather need to be? how thick should it be on each side? Where could i pick up the compounds i always hear about for sharpening? And if i use sand paper on the mouse pad, what grades should i go for?
 
Radrunner said:
I guess i'll weight in. I've been looking into sharpening all week ever since discovering my kerambit was on the dull side.

-There are a TON of good, top notch videos on youtube detailing how to sharpen convex edges using every method from sandpaper on mouse pad, to leather strop.
-False edges do work, my kerambit actually came with one on it, and it would definitely be worth putting on a few of the more upturned and point khuks (UBE comes to mind).
-I'm not an expert by any means, but all i've heard suggests that attempting to sharpen a convex edge with a stone is going to end rather badly unless you are a knife sharpening guru.
Click to expand...

A tip that I heard (no pun intended), was that sharpening a convex edge on a stone meant gnetly stroking it backward, rather than pushing it forward, like usual. However, I've never put this to the test. That's one reason that I asked.

Along such topics.... I currently have little to sharpen with. Could someone explain exactly what i need to do to make a leather strop from an old belt or something? How subtle does the leather need to be? how thick should it be on each side? Where could i pick up the compounds i always hear about for sharpening? And if i use sand paper on the mouse pad, what grades should i go for?
Click to expand...

Now maybe I can help. There's a kind of crystalline compound, rubbed on with a stick, which I think is called, "Jeweller's rouge," but all I know is, that I got some when I went shopping with my dad ( a retired woodworker) for some tools. Anyway, you rub it onto the rough side of a leather strap, and rub the blade back across it (parallel, not perpendicular), to get rid of the burr.

Meanwhile, Rad and Steely told me about what I expected to hear about the false edge. I was skeptical that it would help, on a blade as strongly curved as the M-43, but people with straighter knives often value it.

Belt sanders, I don't have. In fact, I prefer NOT to use powerful machinery, whenever possible; that's why I like knives. My dad might have one, though.

It appears that Khukuri edges are a complicated subject, but I have to ask. the near-guard area MAY get some usage with me, meanwhile, if I have to use it as an improvised drawknife, or suchlike. So, keep the advice coming; I'll wait a little longer before I ask my next couple of questions......
 
Okay, the next batch of questions:

Nails - No, not those nasty little things that some people are afraid to break, I mean the pointy, metal ones. I've heard that the khukuri, with its weight, can be used (carefully) as a hammering tool.
- First off, is this true?
- And second, is there any way to pry them out again? This last sounds rather like abuse of the blade, although using the cho as a nail notch is visually tempting.

Gripping - My understanding is, a hammer or semi-hammer grip for chopping above the waist, and the option of putting your thumb on the back for chopping below the waist. Emphasize the bottom fingers in the grip, and bring the thumb and upper fingers in, full-force, when you hit your target (I believe that a forum member likened this to cracking a whip). Am I right?

Kanda & Co. - Here's a kind of precedent/special-order question: I know that the Dui-Chirra has been made with a "Swiss army" assortment of tools, in addition to the usual kanda and chakma. But has any khukuri ever been made with, say, a spoon or a fork to go with it? Here, or anywhere else? That would make the kanda much more useful, I think, especially since I'd be carrying my Khuk with a Leatherman tool, anyway.

I'm sure that I'm forgetting something, but that's all that I can think of.....
 
Welcome to the H.I. forums Nicholas!!
Make yourself at home here!


Nails- The khuk could be used as a hammer in a pinch, if you carefully turn it over and use the spine, but it is dangerous and isnt really a good thing to do. It could concievably be considered abuse. The cho is not a nail notch, and shouldnt be used as such, this would probably be considered abuse. A claw hammer is a much better option.

Gripping - The standard gripping method is 3 fingers ahead of the handle ring with the ring resting between your third and little fingers and your thumb wrapped around to meet your index finger roughly. Adjust your grip according to handle size. At the point of impact you relax the 3rd and little fingers slightly and snap the sweet spot of the blade into the target as if cracking a whip. You could point your thumb straighter toward the bolster for more control under lighter chopping conditions, but it is recommended to grip the handle tightly with your thumb and first two fingers for full force swings. If you put your thumb on the spine and chop you risk the khuk being jarred from your hand or flying out of your hand and into your shins.

Karda & Co.- The Karda is used for skinning, cutting bite size pieces and small kitchen type duty, it can also be used as sort of a knife and fork combo for eating and can also be used to carve yourself a spoon should you be in need of one. The Chakma is used for straightening and burnishing the cutting edge of the blade in the field. No khukuri that i've seen have ever come with a fork and spoon. A Hobo Knife/fork/spoon combo would be easy to add to your kit.
 
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I agree mostly with Karda's response.

I do, however, loosen my index, thumb and middle fingers for the "whiplash" when chopping, gripping tight with the ring and little finger.

It'd probably be safer to drive nails with the flat of the blade -- using the spine (since they usually aren't flat, is asking for a glance and bad thing to happen.

BUT, I would highly recommend against driving or removing nails with a kukri. This is one of those cases where a specialized tool (claw/framing hammer) is called for.

No fork or spoon (ever, IIRC) were issued with a kukri. I'm not even sure they use forks in Nepal (some countries don't).
 
Thanks, guys. With regards to nails and the karda, that's about what I expected to hear (I understand that in nepal, they typically eat with the right hand, like in the Middle East). But one hears so much conflicting reports about what this tool (OldJimbo reported using an HI khuk to pry out a nail), and I was worried about carrying too many knives. But hear you about hammering with the spine: it sounds like a way to cut myself on the upstroke!

Meanwhile, I remembered the last question! Here it is:

I read an article in Outdoors by OldJimbo, in which he tests the Chiruwa Ang Khola, and claims that the panawal construction causes him to feel more hand shock.
In the first place, do you find that this is true? And if so, does the curved handle shape on the M-43 ameliorate it all?

NOW my questions are over-and-done-with; thanks, everyone.
 
The curved handle of the M43 is more along traditional lines than the straighter handles. I don't think it mitigates shock much, but some find it a bit more comfortable overall than a straight handle. The additional curve to the blade means you have to be more precise with each shot to be able to hit the sweet spot of the blade, but you'll likely get an increase in efficiency if you do.

As for more hand shock with the Chiruwa style handle some say it makes a difference, I don't feel it. But I keep a fairly loose grip on mine when chopping with them -- as I describe, only my ring and small finger are really gripping the handle tight -- and I think if you keep a firm grip with the entire hand, you'll feel more shock than someone with a loose grip. Personally, I don't feel the difference between the Chiruwa style and the standard handle.
 
And I guess that this answers all of my questions! Thanks!

I don't expect to feel anything from the panawal handle, either, since I have two kitchen knives built that way, and they sure don't hurt ME any! And I believe you that the curved handle will be a better shape; it's what I incline to, naturally. But, no two pairs of hands are alike, and so I might as well ask every question while it's in my mind.

I think, then, that I know exactly what I want, and it's still the M-43. Now, it's just a matter of saving up.......and until then, we can just yak it up (no pun intended).
 
LOL, never said the curved handle was better, just that it's different.

I actually prefer the straight handles, and the Ang Khola design over all others. But, everyone is different. Not that it matters, you'll be buying more. . .:D
 
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