Loveless video: soldering the guard

M

meteogeek

Joined
Jan 18, 1999
Messages
57
I received and viewed the Loveless video on knifemaking. I must say it was informative and his mannerisms are often humorous. However, one subject that was glossed over was cleanup in the joint area between the guard and the blade. He does cover the removal of excess solder between the guard and tang via the use of a mill. However, info. is lacking regarding the blade side of the guard area. His book also omits the info., and I was hoping the video would be a bit more enlightening. Does anyone know how he does this? It looks to me in the video that there is some cleanup to do as there appears to be some resulting residue in this joint area. I have my own ideas but am at a loss as to how a "Master" accomplishes this task given a polished blade. Thanks in advance.

>> DeWayne <<
 
I've still got a lot to learn about soldering, but I do know a good technique for removing that excess. I made a tool like a small chisel or engraving tool out of a piece of brass. Using this to scrape around the blade/guard joint cuts through solder easily but won't touch stainless. The profile you put into the end of the tool will be the profile left in the solder, because eventually you can't reach into the corner between blade and guard. So a nice round tip leaves a smooth concave solder joint. It's fun!

------------------
-Drew Gleason
Little Bear Knives
 
try a round needle file. i used a disk sander on my last joint, buy i think a needle file will work better.
 
I would bet that after soldering as many guards as he has and using a liquid flux, there is very little solder TO clean up at the blade side of the guard! I am sure that what remains would probably blend in to a very small fillet when he completes his mirror finish.
I prefer to make a precision fit between my guards/bolsters and pin them with matching materials.
Neil

[This message has been edited by Dr.Lathe (edited 18 September 1999).]
 
There's no real secret about soldering a
guard the secret is in getting the guard on
with little or no gaps and on perpendicular
to the blade. Using a good liquid flux applied sparingly with a needle and syringe on the back side of the guard then Place the tang in a vise with the pointy part of the
blade sticking up. Then take another needle
and dip it into the flux and drag it around
the joint of blade and guard being careful
not to scratch either again sparingly. Pound the small piece of solder that you intend to use flat. Heat the GUARD with a small tip
( 0 ) until the flux starts to just barly darken. Push the solder up from underneath
to see if it will melt keep heating and checking. Use a low temp solder. 425 deg.
when the solder melts dip the needle into
the flux again and drag along the joint on
top. It should pull the solder into the joint
and seal with little or no extra very easy to
clean up with a small piece of blunt brass and them the buffer. Try not to over heat
when heating the guard. I sprinkle water on
the blade and guard after the solder has set
then quench after the sizzleing has stopped.
I also have another method but this is the
easiest. Hope this is a little help....
goshawk

------------------
http://www.imt.net/~goshawk
Don't walk in tradition just because it feels good!!!!!
Romans 10:9,10
Hebrews 4:12-16
Psalm 91

 
THanks for the reply guys. I have a handle (so to speak) on clean up of the solder. I use a piece of brass milled to a chisel point and I'm able to peel off the excess. My question is (I did not convey what I meant in the earlier e-mail) how does one clean up any of the dark mess that may appears on the blade near the joint area. Perhaps it merely rubs off with a soft cloth but there appears to be a dark residue left on the blade. I have had this happen once already and I suppose it could be attributed to too much heat during soldering. It appears in Loveless' video that he too has this black residue. Is it merely buffed away? Thoughts on the matter?

>> DeWayne <<
 
The black residue is usually the burned flux and should come right off with light buffing.
The thing is not to get everything too hot.
I get in a hurry once in awhile and not check
to see if the solder will melt and things get too hot. Slso most solder will have a higher
reheat temp. so the end of the solder will
not melt at the lower temp. when touched to
the metal... solution- snip off the end of
the left over solder so you have fresh solder
each time. Remember the solder is there for
sealing not for strength...
goshawk

------------------
http://www.imt.net/~goshawk
Don't walk in tradition just because it feels good!!!!!
Romans 10:9,10
Hebrews 4:12-16
Psalm 91

 
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