Lube question

R

racer944

Joined
Oct 12, 2007
Messages
127
For your pocket knives, what lubricant do you use once you wash/clean them out. Also, post up what you use to wash yours.

Me?
Isobropyl alcohol soak and scrub with a couple Q-Tips and a follow up hose down with WD40.
 
A good washing with dawn dishwashing detergent and hot water, and a toothbrush to get in the blade grooves.

after drying, a very tiny drop of Hoppys gun oil or good old 3-in-1.
 
I'm with Jackknife, except I've stopped lubing my SAK's. In fact I'm getting away from lubing stainless.... Until I pony up for some militec-1. But as of now when I do lube its hoppes gun oil, or possibly prolink bike chain lube.
 
For stainless steel pocket knives and Swiss army knives, I usually just wash them with soap and warm water and towel dry them. I usually don't use oil on Swiss army knives. If the knife needs oil, I use camellia oil since it is non toxic... and I have a good stock of it for my woodworking tools. If I don't use the knife around food, I may use 3-in-1 or militec-1 (if it really needs it).

If the knife isn't stainless, I'll wipe the knife down with camellia oil. For long term storage, I may also use Renwax.
 
I've been using Boeshield on my SAK's and like it. For heavy cleaning of SAK's, I use an old brush head on my sonicare in warm soapy water. On frame or liner lock knives I use militec-1. Also, I clean the lock face on both sides and use the graphite from a pencil to reduce lock sticking. I usually use household orange cleaner + rag or paper towel to clean my non-SAK knives.
 
I actually just put some boesheild on my Native today. Got a bunch of beer all gumming it up from last night, so I cleaned it up at work and sprayed some boesheild in there. Pretty smooth, we'll see how it lasts.
 
I always disassemble to clean. If the problem can't be remedied with one or two drops of militec-1 on the pivot, than the knife needs to be disassembled and cleaned by hand. I use a rag and whatever solvent I have available at the time. This usually being WD40 or Alcohol. After cleaning, any lube that is applied, is done very sparingly and precisely. That way the lube doesnt attract too much dust or dirt. I have tried most, if not all, of the different lubes talked about on the many Knife and tool forums. Militec-1 is by far the best IMHO. I would give Tri-flow, a Teflon based lube, a not so close second place. Just my 2 cents.
 
Have experienced any grit-collection with triflow being a wet lube and all? I use it extensivvely on my winter bicycle but found in the summer it tends to collect grit on the chain.
 
I also always disassemble to clean. I use rubbing alcohol for parts cleaning (applied with a q-tip) and lube with Blue Juice valve oil for brass instruments. I play french horn, and found by chance that valve oil does a great job for joint lubrication--just keep it away from food since it contains petroleum distillates. :barf:
 
SAKs - Soap and water, alcohol if gooey, drip dry.
Folders - Isopropyl Alcohol, pivot/washers lubed with CRK grease.
Fixed - Soap and water, wiped down with Alcohol. No oil, not even on carbon.
 
As I stated before. I use Tri-flow, or any lube, very sparingly and precisely. Tri-flow goes on wet but, when applied sparingly, the moisture evaporates leaving a fine teflon powder behind. Most of the items I use it on are not open to road debris. In areas where a lock is exposed to road debris, like the padlock on the back of a trailer or box truck. I literally drowned(rinse) the lock with WD40. Squirting directly into the key hole and the all shackle points(the ball bearings). After drowning and draining. I then apply the Tri-flow. If I want it dry, I heat with a heat gun until I visibly see the fluid evaporate. This works!
 
plain old mineral oil for mine. i usually will clean with mild soap and water maybe alcohol if its needed then lightly oil it
nothing fancy but works for me
ivan
 
You do know triflow's primary ingedient is naphtha?
http://64.23.157.3/msds/89554.pdf


Keyman said:
As I stated before. I use Tri-flow, or any lube, very sparingly and precisely. Tri-flow goes on wet but, when applied sparingly, the moisture evaporates leaving a fine teflon powder behind. Most of the items I use it on are not open to road debris. In areas where a lock is exposed to road debris, like the padlock on the back of a trailer or box truck. I literally drowned(rinse) the lock with WD40. Squirting directly into the key hole and the all shackle points(the ball bearings). After drowning and draining. I then apply the Tri-flow. If I want it dry, I heat with a heat gun until I visibly see the fluid evaporate. This works!
Click to expand...
 
Buck268
Yup, but I use it for the Teflon.
Bernoulli
Yup, you spray it on and in a day it's gone.
WD40 does penetrate much better than Tri-flow does though.
The Tri-flow will follow the WD40 into places it cant/wont go by itself.
They both evaporate rather quickly. Leaving only a fine Teflon powder behind.
No oil, too sticky. I even wipe any excess Militec-1. Wet is not good, it just attracts too much crap.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top