Lube

You CAN use anything you want, even spit. Since it's a bearing lubricant, I wouldn't think it would be all that bad. An ol buddy of mine always used to say any is better than none at all.

These days I use simple stuff like mineral oil since it's food safe and I carry a lot of carbon steel knives.
 
FrogLube is the best anti-rust from all the group tests i have seen, it`s even non-toxic but it`s not cheap.
 
Never heard of "Bones speed cream" but Im assuming its "powell peralta" bones skate board bearing grease. Probably would work just fine....could also try some sex wax for grip:p (surfboard wax)
 
Been using Quick Release for a few yrs.. I like it..:thumbsup: John
 
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Monofletch said:
I have used CLP/Break Free with excellent results. We used it a lot in the Army
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I'm a fan of cleaning with Breakfree CLP (or Rem Oil) having used it to protect valuable guns and knives for many years. It is reasonably priced and readily available in most sporting good stores and departments and you only use just a small amount so a supply of Breakfree lasts a long time. I first used this on M16's some years ago as it was the military lube that was in use at the time. The CLP means Cleans-Lubricates-Protects against corrosion. It is good for knives.

 
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I use ZX1 MicroLube on the pivot of my knives, the needle point make it easy to applying the oil right were it needed.

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Avoid nano oil. Pure snake oil. It's just really expensive mineral oil.

Speed cream will work. It's for skateboard wheel bearings. You don't want to apply too much cause your knives are on washers. You could just use mineral oil as it's thinner and really cheap at pharmacy or supermarket where laxatives are sold. Else most Machine oil will work and is also cheap.

I use all sorts of lubes. A little goes a long way. Currently using quick release. It's a synthetic and not food safe, but I apply it sparingly with a q tip to avoid it splashing all over. This way also reduces attraction of dust because it's just where you want it.

Essentially your using the oil to protect against rust but also lubrication from the metal to metal contact. Just apply on blade side not between the scales and washers.
 
Muslmutt- That is a great post covering a large number of different lube and corrosion protection products.

http://ronkulas.proboards.com/thread/274/review-comparison-gun-care-products

I have used Breakfree CLP for almost 50 years, first the military version, and then on competition shotguns worth thousands of dollars, and my good knives and tools, and have truly never had any issues. That may be because I usually clean the guns (with first using Hoppes 9 to dissolve whatever crud may be left in the bore), knives, etc. after use and store them in a cool and dry area. Even when hunting in wet environments I clean and wipe down the guns, knives, etc. when back in the camp.

I don't think I'll change products because the Breakfree stuff has just worked, is easy to find, and doesn't cost an arm and a leg ($7 on Amazon for 4 oz.). The Frog Lube ($19 on Amazon for 4 oz.) looks interesting and I'm going to give it a try even though it is far more expensive than Breakfree CLP. However any of these products is far less expensive than the damage caused to a tool by not using them.


 
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GatorFlash, not to sidetrack this discussion, nor to denigrate any particular product but my (strong) opinion is that if I were you, I'd stick to that product that has worked for you all these years...because reasons. (Google is your friend here.)

(Personally, I find any of several lubes more than adequate for my knives and guns. Break Free, Slip 2000 EWL, Super Lube etc. Heck, good old Hoppe's light machine oil got me through many a year on and off the job without encountering any issues with my guns or knives, or requiring "boutique" formulas. The only "boutique" formulas I own were either gifts or samples. Otherwise I've pretty much remained with the old mainstays.)
 
Super Lube synthetic oil with PTFE works great also, it's what I have and have been using for quite a while. It's made my flippers flippier! I use it on bearings and washers and things around the house too. Oh, and it is food grade which is important to me on my knives.
 
I believe I mentioned Super Lube in my post above. Yep...been using it around home, property, knives and guns for years. Good stuff and inexpensive. (Their customer service folks have been helpful as well when I had a request or inquiry.)
 
this thread got me thinking about the vast array of lubricants available and some others mentioned in another thread . I gave it a go today with some lighter fluid followed by synthetic car oil (shell rotella T) on a WE Thraex, and it seems to flip better. Maybe I will try the super lube in the near future.
 
Ohhh I didn't realize you said lube for the blade. In that case use a food safe lube.

Edci (spray on wipe in)
Mineral oil
Frog lube
Fluid film

Don't use frog lube or fluid film or edci for the lubrication of the pivot. Perfect for blades, but not idea for friction in the pivot.

On that note your crooked river is s30v and is stainless. If you keep it dry it shouldn't rust.
 
3in1 oil is the best value, or mineral oil if you want to cut food with you knife.

If you don't mind the cost.

2nd best is "WD-40 Specialist Long-Term Corrosion Inhibitor" spray.
1st is "Frog Lube" also food safe.
 
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