Lubrication for spydercos

P

papadb10

Joined
Mar 15, 2005
Messages
26
What lubrication does everyone use for the spyderco knives? I have a native and have tried several gun lubes on the hinge, but it still seems to be a bit stiff on the initial opening. Once past the first push, it is smooth. Any way to smooth it up. I have heard something about the green grease used in bicycle bearings. Any help appreciated.
 
The trick is using a lubricant that won't attract and hold dirt, lint, etc. and gum up the blade action. I use Tri-Flo, CLP because they are solvent based and evaporate leaving only a thin lubricant that lasts.
 
I use mineral oil because it is non-toxic. Don't need the fancy stuff quite yet. works great!
 
my fav is tuffglide, followed by rem oil (the yellow bottle thats about $1 at walmart), then militec, militec works good but seems to be a little thick for some knives imho, it doesnt work well at all on OTF autos for example, the tuffglide and rem oil work well on everything i know of, any good light oil works ok.
 
I have been hearing so much about these new "NANOTECH" generation of lubrications that are hitting the market. I got a sample of some of the newer stuff at the BLADE show. It is MMC ( Molecular Metal Conditioner) and it seems to have incredible lubricity. I also got one of Sentry Solutions new products which is a dry lube called BP 2000 of which I've already had some very good results with.

I don't know if Militec is in the category of a NANOTECH lube or not. But I got a feeling we are going to be hearing a lot about them here shortly. I know that the new car waxes with the nanotech products really hold up well. I may start a thread on this. Yes I think I will ;)
 
I'm right there with you SIFU1A. I use either Tuf-Glide or Rem Oil too. I've been satisfied with both of those products.

I'd like to give some others a try to see if I can tell a difference though.
 
I use Ballistol on all my knives and firearms.It is really great lube.tom.
here is a link.

http://www.ballistol.biz/b^index.asp
 
Rough on opening.

What does the contact surface look like? Is it pocked or grooved?

Sounds like it is maybe galling or something similiar.

Instead of lubricating, perhaps try no lube (remove it) and cycle the knife open and closed a few times (dozens, hundreds) to wear it smooth. Or, if you like risk, a bit of polishing toothpaste can be added to speed things up (toothpaste can be used to lap metal in for fine contact purposes - slow though).

A "moly-be-damned" or graphite based lubricating grease can add temporary relief from rough contact surfaces, but if they are rough they will need to be polished smooth.
 
I use Rem Oil. It is recommended for my Microtech knives, so I just use it on my "workin" Spydies, also. They love it.
 
Miltech for me. I always heat it up with a hairdryer after applying it to make it bond better.
 
JD Spydo said:
I know that the new car waxes with the nanotech products really hold up well.
Click to expand...

Not according to Consumer Reports. The nanowaxes go on easy and have great gloss, but they don't last very long.

BTW, any Spyderco with a molded FRN handle is going to be tight and hang up at times. The nylon is hydroscopic and changes with humidity. If you want a slick opening Syderco, get the original stainless slabs. I have no idea what model my SS-slabbed Spydy started out as (I've re-shaped the blade over the years), but it opens instantly with no drag whatsoever. Even my new C05 Worker opens like butter. I sold off my Endura and Delica as they were too sticky to open, and I'm hoping my Native will loosen up or it will be gone as well.

Matthew
 
I use Eros - a silicone based lube bought at the Lions Den Adult Store - laugh if you want but it's good and serves more than one purpose;) :thumbup:
 
I've tried a few lubes and here are my impressions:

White Lightning Epic: durable, very slick, rust protection, attracts a bit of dirt, but not too much. My current favorite for knives (don't like it on my bike though).

White Lightning Classic: moderate durability, moderately slick, no rust protection, does not attract dirt at all (still my favorite on the bike:D )

Tuf Glide: low durability, moderately slick, rust protection, attracts a bit of dirt. I was dissappointed with this one.

Normal mineral oil: moderate durability, moderately slick, rust protection, attracts all dirt within a 12in radius.

Guy
 
MSgt said:
I use Eros - a silicone based lube bought at the Lions Den Adult Store - laugh if you want but it's good and serves more than one purpose;) :thumbup:
Click to expand...
Get your money's worth! Thats what I do with my mineral oil! Lube my knife and polish my helmet all with one product!:thumbup:
 
orthogonal1 said:
Rough on opening.

What does the contact surface look like? Is it pocked or grooved?

Sounds like it is maybe galling or something similiar.

Instead of lubricating, perhaps try no lube (remove it) and cycle the knife open and closed a few times (dozens, hundreds) to wear it smooth. Or, if you like risk, a bit of polishing toothpaste can be added to speed things up (toothpaste can be used to lap metal in for fine contact purposes - slow though).

A "moly-be-damned" or graphite based lubricating grease can add temporary relief from rough contact surfaces, but if they are rough they will need to be polished smooth.
Click to expand...


Thanks for all the replies everyone. I think the part of the cam that rides against the locking spring may be a little galled. I can't see any way to get to it to clean it up. I have tried Remington bore polisher, a polish with abrasive in it, and clamped the handle in a vise and worked the blade few hundred times. After that, I cleaned it with Action blaster, re-lubed it with Hoppes MDL. That helped some, but after a few dozen openings it became sticky again. I finally cleaned it again with the action blaster, then washed it in hot soapy water, rinsed and dried, and that seemed to be the best, with no lube. It is only sticky when you first start to open it, after you overcome the locking lug it is very smooth. I think it needs a little polishing, but that is impossible because there are only rivets, not screws.
 
I have also tried Gun oil, Rem oil, WD 40, White lithium, and Silicone to no avail. But I just received my Blue Delica ZDP, after 9 mo. wait, in the mail yesterday. It may be time to retire the Native anyway. This new Delica is ablolutely slick!!! And just as sharp as my the Cally Jr. I sold in a fit of greed. Wish I had that one back.
 
I use white lightning on knives that touch food, and militec on ones that don't. Can't be too careful.
 
outofgum said:
I use white lightning on knives that touch food, and militec on ones that don't. Can't be too careful.
Click to expand...


What is White Lightning made of, that it is fine for knives that will touch food?


-Jeffrey
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top