M4: Gayle Bradley or Contego?

I'm pretty sure the GB was designed that way to avoid "accidental" closings. The way it's designed it would be pretty difficult to disengage the liner lock without meaning to do so.
 
IIRC Spyderco uses "twill" and "peel ply" carbon fiber. The peel ply one looks like G10.

I am open to being wrong but I just compaired my cf stretch, cf military & the GB. They are all peel ply & I believe and there is a difference. The others look like carbon fiber on the back of the scale but the GB looks just like g10. Can some else compare the back side of these peel ply scales and tell me if I'm crazy?
 
I am open to being wrong but I just compaired my cf stretch, cf military & the GB. They are all peel ply & I believe and there is a difference. The others look like carbon fiber on the back of the scale but the GB looks just like g10. Can some else compare the back side of these peel ply scales and tell me if I'm crazy?

Pretty sure you are right. I think it was Tuffthumbz who first showed that the entire scale on the Sage 1 and GB is not CF, only the top layer or whatever.

As for the lock not having a cut out to facilitate disengaging, I was annoyed at first by that with my GB, but actually, I wish more liner lock knives were that way. I have a few other liner lock knives designed to be super tough, hard use knives that if I am gripping the handle tightly, while working with the knife, my index finger lines up with the cut out in such a way that my grip applies pressure to the lock bar, causing partial disengagement, which leaves me feeling wary of the lockup, afraid the bar will slip and disengage completely. I've noticed this with Emersons, ZTs, and other Spydies. Anyway, when actually using the knife, it's not like I'm opening and closing it over and over and over, but rather opening once and closing once, with a period of use in between.

I personally think the GB is an AMAZING knife because of the versatility of the design. The CPM-M4 steel, and super thick liner/lock make for badass hard use folder, but the knife is small enough (not saying it's a small knife) and the carbon fiber and polished liners are classy enough to let it pass as a gentleman(ish) folder. Comfortable as heck for EDC as well.

As I'm sure you can guess, I'm pretty much in love with my GB.
 
I can't find any confirmation it is G10, just people guessing who do not have a materials background. If someone knowledgeable like knarfeng has commented on it, I'd like to see it.
 
Don't have a Contego yet, I plan to get one in the near future, it looks to be an interesting knife design with a very useful blade shape, although I am not a huge fan of the axis lock, I just think its OK. I really like m4 and just having a blade made of it is usually enough to get me to try a knife.

I have owned a GB since just after the first batch was released, its a great knife, I have recommended it to several of my friends who purchased one and they also love them now. Its a hard knife to beat IMO and especially for the money, the blade shape is extremely useful. The GB did start causing a sore spot on my thumb from unlocking the recessed lock bar so often, easy fix, it was pretty quick on the sander. The M4 blade does require a little care if you don't want it to spot rust, but its easy enough to keep it oiled up or force a patina. Here's an older pic from when I first modded mine, I like the knife that much more with the easier access to the lock bar, I have never even come close to having an accidental release.

GayleBradleyMod004.jpg
 
About the only reason I have yet to buy one is the big ol' "Taiwan" on the side.

I don't mind foreign knives, but this is also the reason I haven't bought the sage 2.

Japan I don't mind, but Taiwan?

Probably a subjective perpective is why it bothers me.
 
I'm pretty sure on the GB it's carbon fiber all the way through. For science(!) I have taken mine apart and took pictures:

A bunch here in full resolution (left click to enlarge, double click for full resolution): http://imgur.com/a/s1q0W and http://imgur.com/a/zSmgM

Here is it under a 30x loupe. The lighter dots are bands of fibers, with light reflecting off separate strands:

nGUMq.jpg


edit: Better picture that captures bands in both directions (just realized the camera I've had for a year has a macro mode :p ):

Kk77h.jpg


F1FlF.jpg


So yeah the back and front are the same. The difference is the back side has more resin above the fibers, which must have confused some people.
 
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I am open to being wrong but I just compaired my cf stretch, cf military & the GB. They are all peel ply & I believe and there is a difference. The others look like carbon fiber on the back of the scale but the GB looks just like g10. Can some else compare the back side of these peel ply scales and tell me if I'm crazy?

I was going off of what I've read on here. This thread in particular mentions the difference between peel ply and twill carbon fiber: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/942876-Carbon-fiber-spydies?
 
I've never owned a GB because I've had so many liner locks fail on me but it looks like a great knife. But the contego is just incredible.

Really? You've had many liner locks fail? I'd love to hear about it. You are the first one I've heard of that has had a liner lock fail much less "so many liner locks fail". How did they fail? Any photos?
 
What's the difference between Japanese made and Taiwanese made??

Japanese-made knives have some steels that you can't get with knives that have other countries of origin, because the Japanese steel manufacturers won't sell their products to be used overseas for some reason. If you want something like H1, ZDP-189, or VG-10, you'll have to get a Japanese knife or find a manufacturer that has worked out some kind of deal with Hitachi (Kershaw, for instance, can make American knives with Japanese steel because the company is Japanese-owned).

The quality of Japanese knives is pretty consistently good, too, which isn't true of Taiwanese knives. The GB, Sage, and other newer popular Taiwanese Spyderco's are made by a factory in Taichung, which produces some of the best quality you'll see in a regular production piece. I think it surpasses most Japanese and American knives. However, before Spyderco started using this particular factory, they had another contractor in Taiwan that did very poorly. They stamp the new ones with Taichung on the blade, so if you pick one of those up you shouldn't be disappointed with the quality.

As for the CF vs. G-10, I have no idea where that came from. The GB has always been represented and accepted as a CF knife.
 
Japanese-made knives have some steels that you can't get with knives that have other countries of origin, because the Japanese steel manufacturers won't sell their products to be used overseas for some reason. If you want something like H1, ZDP-189, or VG-10, you'll have to get a Japanese knife or find a manufacturer that has worked out some kind of deal with Hitachi (Kershaw, for instance, can make American knives with Japanese steel because the company is Japanese-owned).

The quality of Japanese knives is pretty consistently good, too, which isn't true of Taiwanese knives. The GB, Sage, and other newer popular Taiwanese Spyderco's are made by a factory in Taichung, which produces some of the best quality you'll see in a regular production piece. I think it surpasses most Japanese and American knives. However, before Spyderco started using this particular factory, they had another contractor in Taiwan that did very poorly. They stamp the new ones with Taichung on the blade, so if you pick one of those up you shouldn't be disappointed with the quality.

As for the CF vs. G-10, I have no idea where that came from. The GB has always been represented and accepted as a CF knife.

Well said. I am generally a little skeptical about Asian made knives, instruments, etc. However, I've always been pretty impressed with Japanese work and they're kind of the exception for me in most cases. In a lot of cases, they seem to be on par with American built things and are often more consistent and sometimes have better fit and finish. However, this is not the case with Spyderco. Spyderco's very best knives are built in the Taichung factory. They build almost all of their "premium" knives there (the stuff with higher end materials, designs by "special" designers, the best fit and finish stuff, etc.). I'm glad they make the line of knives they do in Golden, CO, because I love their USA knives and I wouldn't want my Para's and Millie's built anywhere else. I'm glad all the Servicemen with those knives are using knives from an American company, built in the USA too. Trust me, I love the Golden stuff. However, the best fit and finish knives Spyderco has to offer, and the only knives that reach perfect or near-perfect fit and finish, are built in Taichung, Taiwan. I can speculate as to why that is, but the truth is they're are the best Spyderco's when it comes to great materials, designs, and fit and finish all-together. They're also some of the best value knives. I have no doubt they could build knives like the GB in Golden just as perfect, but it would cost twice as much. Instead, they train these guys in Taiwan to built the knives with that kind of attention to detail and then they can sell it for much less. $150 is a lot for a Taiwanese knife, but they're still a great price for what they are. The reason it's still that much money when it's built in Taiwan is because they're that high of quality and F&F.

Spyderco has a lot of faith in their Taichung factory and for good reason. Heck, it's even where they're building the Brad Southard flipper and other new high end designs with really high end steels and materials, designed by famous knife makers, like Ed Schemp, Laci Szabo, Marcin Slysz, etc. I would not hesitate to get a Taichung Spyderco. If you haven't yet, then you really haven't experienced how good Spyderco really is. I love my USA Spyderco's too, they're great and tough with classic designs, but the Taichung models are almost like a completely different brand of knife that should normally cost more than twice as much if made in the USA. I will gladly trade the fact that these knives are made in Taiwan for the value and quality you get for the price. I think when most people get a Taichung Spyderco they forget about where it's made right away. Especially with a perfect example like the GB which is such a robust and substantial knife with fit and finish that honestly surpasses many custom knife makers.
 
Don't have a Contego yet, I plan to get one in the near future, it looks to be an interesting knife design with a very useful blade shape, although I am not a huge fan of the axis lock, I just think its OK. I really like m4 and just having a blade made of it is usually enough to get me to try a knife.

I have owned a GB since just after the first batch was released, its a great knife, I have recommended it to several of my friends who purchased one and they also love them now. Its a hard knife to beat IMO and especially for the money, the blade shape is extremely useful. The GB did start causing a sore spot on my thumb from unlocking the recessed lock bar so often, easy fix, it was pretty quick on the sander. The M4 blade does require a little care if you don't want it to spot rust, but its easy enough to keep it oiled up or force a patina. Here's an older pic from when I first modded mine, I like the knife that much more with the easier access to the lock bar, I have never even come close to having an accidental release.

GayleBradleyMod004.jpg

That's really nice looking! I'm tempted to do the same thing with mine because it looks so good and would make things very convenient. Although, I don't have trouble with the lock. Especially now that I've built up the necessary calluses :) The GB has extremely thick liners and there is almost no relief cut at all so it's a pretty hard lock to disengage. I love this because this is one of the most confidence inspiring lockups that I've felt. I trust the lock on my GB more than my Sebenza's, Strider, 0560, etc. But it's definitely a tough lock to disengage on it's own, plus there's not cutout. However, it's very manageable. The first couple days, my thumb was sore as hell from open and closing the GB over and over. But now that I have the calluses, it's a piece of cake and I'm actually glad because the lock seems so sturdy. I can get a decent enough purchase with the tip of my thumb, or you can even use the "meat" of your thumb which is even more comfortable. So yeah, to anyone worried about the lock. Just be patient and build up the needed calluses and it will be worth it once it becomes easy and comfortable and you'll be glad you have such a sturdy lock.
 
Sal has confirmed on the spyderco factory forum that the scales aren't 100% CF.


Also have you ever seen a raw sheet of G10 without any texturing? It looks exactly like the pictures you posted. :)


I'm pretty sure on the GB it's carbon fiber all the way through. For science(!) I have taken mine apart and took pictures:

A bunch here in full resolution (left click to enlarge, double click for full resolution): http://imgur.com/a/s1q0W and http://imgur.com/a/zSmgM

Here is it under a 30x loupe. The lighter dots are bands of fibers, with light reflecting off separate strands:

nGUMq.jpg


edit: Better picture that captures bands in both directions (just realized the camera I've had for a year has a macro mode :p ):

Kk77h.jpg


F1FlF.jpg


So yeah the back and front are the same. The difference is the back side has more resin above the fibers, which must have confused some people.
 
Well you can see the weave all the way through, as you can see in the pictures. Do you happen to remember which thread Sal said it in?

Like I said above you are seeing the natural unfinished look of G10. G10 also has a weave (that's what you are seeing) except its fiberglass. (or some form of glass weave)


I'm in a Life/Health class right now, but I will look for the thread on the breaks.


ETA: take the scales off of an Emerson and look at the back of them. It looks exactly like the pics you took. Emerson's are the only knives I know of off hand that have raw unfinished G10 on the under side of the scales. :)
 
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