Cliff Stamp
BANNED
- Joined
- Oct 5, 1998
- Messages
- 17,562
The Machax from BK&T :
http://www.physics.mun.ca/~sstamp/images/machax_side.jpg
You can readily see the bolo influence on the blade curvature as well as the extreme handle to blade angle found on traditional khukuris. It has a decent heft at 620 g with a significant forward balance. Here is a shot with it and a 18" AK from HI and a BM from Busse Combat :
http://www.physics.mun.ca/~sstamp/images/machax_bm_ak_side.jpg
Note the angle of the blade relative to the handle is achieved in the khukuri by an actual bend in the blade itself, with the Machax the handle is angled relative to a straight blade.
The primary grind on the Machax is much lower than on the BM and thus reduces cutting ability. The grind on the khukuri is lower still, but the blade is forged in a concave hollow behind the primary grind, and the edge is formed by the primary grind, two factors which increase its cutting ability.
The handles on the Machax and BM are very similar in profile, the outline is almost exact. The one difference is that the BM is swelled along the top so as to increase ergonomics and security. The grip on the Machax is also much smoother. There is a large difference in cross section, the Machax grip is very thick :
http://www.physics.mun.ca/~sstamp/images/machax_bm_ak_top.jpg
this is good as it lowers the pressure during hard contacts. However the deep set hex screws leave large gaps in the handle which are uncomfortable during use and will fill up with sap and debris.
There are many problems with the fit and finish of the Machax. The edge grinds are different from side to side and even vary about 100% in width along both sides. There seems to be a loose pattern of increasing the width running back along the belly and up towards the tip, but the changes are not smooth or even constant in direction. I would estimate the edge angle to be about 24 or so degrees a the top of the curve. But this is a crude estimate because of the grind variances.
The grinds also start with abrupt 90 degree cut which reduces strength. The handle slabs are not flush with the tang. One is up too high and causes abrasion during chopping. The other has a visible gap between the tang and the slab. The coating comes off readily during chopping. About a dozen or so pieces of 1/2x1" scrap and a couple of sections off a small stick (3" in diameter) removed the coating back from the edge about 1/4" of an inch for about 2" in length.
The sheath holds the blade securely with no rattle. Comparing the construction to the Kydex sheath on the BM a number of differences are noted. The webbing is thinner as is the front kydex piece. The belt loops are not as cleanly or uniformly cut. The snaps are of lower grade (not centered), and the attachment of the webbing to the kydex done with weaker materials. I pulled on the webbing and bent one of the rivets on the Machax sheath.
I did about a half an hour of chopping, cuting up some small scrap, pointing and splitting it as well as cutting up some small sticks. In general the BM significantly outperformed the Machax in terms of cut depth but tended to bind more. The handle on the Machax is much thicker which I find to in general increase comfort, but has a very abrasion points described above which in general would make me prefer the grip on the BM. As well, the machax grip is much smoother and I would assume that the security is much less in slippery conditions. Everything is frozen here now so I'll have to wait until it thaws to look at that. More specific performance comparisons will come as I do more work.
-Cliff
[This message has been edited by Cliff Stamp (edited 11-21-2000).]
http://www.physics.mun.ca/~sstamp/images/machax_side.jpg
You can readily see the bolo influence on the blade curvature as well as the extreme handle to blade angle found on traditional khukuris. It has a decent heft at 620 g with a significant forward balance. Here is a shot with it and a 18" AK from HI and a BM from Busse Combat :
http://www.physics.mun.ca/~sstamp/images/machax_bm_ak_side.jpg
Note the angle of the blade relative to the handle is achieved in the khukuri by an actual bend in the blade itself, with the Machax the handle is angled relative to a straight blade.
The primary grind on the Machax is much lower than on the BM and thus reduces cutting ability. The grind on the khukuri is lower still, but the blade is forged in a concave hollow behind the primary grind, and the edge is formed by the primary grind, two factors which increase its cutting ability.
The handles on the Machax and BM are very similar in profile, the outline is almost exact. The one difference is that the BM is swelled along the top so as to increase ergonomics and security. The grip on the Machax is also much smoother. There is a large difference in cross section, the Machax grip is very thick :
http://www.physics.mun.ca/~sstamp/images/machax_bm_ak_top.jpg
this is good as it lowers the pressure during hard contacts. However the deep set hex screws leave large gaps in the handle which are uncomfortable during use and will fill up with sap and debris.
There are many problems with the fit and finish of the Machax. The edge grinds are different from side to side and even vary about 100% in width along both sides. There seems to be a loose pattern of increasing the width running back along the belly and up towards the tip, but the changes are not smooth or even constant in direction. I would estimate the edge angle to be about 24 or so degrees a the top of the curve. But this is a crude estimate because of the grind variances.
The grinds also start with abrupt 90 degree cut which reduces strength. The handle slabs are not flush with the tang. One is up too high and causes abrasion during chopping. The other has a visible gap between the tang and the slab. The coating comes off readily during chopping. About a dozen or so pieces of 1/2x1" scrap and a couple of sections off a small stick (3" in diameter) removed the coating back from the edge about 1/4" of an inch for about 2" in length.
The sheath holds the blade securely with no rattle. Comparing the construction to the Kydex sheath on the BM a number of differences are noted. The webbing is thinner as is the front kydex piece. The belt loops are not as cleanly or uniformly cut. The snaps are of lower grade (not centered), and the attachment of the webbing to the kydex done with weaker materials. I pulled on the webbing and bent one of the rivets on the Machax sheath.
I did about a half an hour of chopping, cuting up some small scrap, pointing and splitting it as well as cutting up some small sticks. In general the BM significantly outperformed the Machax in terms of cut depth but tended to bind more. The handle on the Machax is much thicker which I find to in general increase comfort, but has a very abrasion points described above which in general would make me prefer the grip on the BM. As well, the machax grip is much smoother and I would assume that the security is much less in slippery conditions. Everything is frozen here now so I'll have to wait until it thaws to look at that. More specific performance comparisons will come as I do more work.
-Cliff
[This message has been edited by Cliff Stamp (edited 11-21-2000).]