Machete advice?

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You know, it is fun to use a machete. For some reason I would rather swing a machete than ever use a bow saw. I always hear people say how a bow saw is so great. I hate sawing, I won't saw anything unless you put a gun to my head or there is some reason I need it cut with a saw. I would much rather slash and chop! Machete or axe is fun, bow saw is more like work.
 
You know, it is fun to use a machete. For some reason I would rather swing a machete than ever use a bow saw. I always hear people say how a bow saw is so great. I hate sawing, I won't saw anything unless you put a gun to my head or there is some reason I need it cut with a saw. I would much rather slash and chop! Machete or axe is fun, bow saw is more like work.

I hear you. I have a big red sumac problem and every year I go out with my HI khukris (a selection, because, you know you have to try out them all) and cut everything down. I could do it in no time at all with a chainsaw, but I used the khuks to chop them down and cut them up so they fit in the back fo the truck. Its the only time I willingly do physical labor:rolleyes:
 
I'll agree that 'chettes are fun. Lots of fun. In fact, so are chainsaws. Bow saws...not so much. But hey, they are more efficient; if your short on wood saw it up cuz chopping does waste a lot.
 
My .02 ct. If your not going to pack it around, get the longest machete you can find. Its simple physics, longer length = greater cutting power. Also more edge area when your cutting grass like stuff. Every spring I trim up all my trees and cut a bunch of vines weeds and cactus back. I've used a khukuri, a Bolo, an 18" machete, and a cutlass. A year ago I bought a 24" military surplus machete for $8.00 what a cutting monster. The steel is a little soft and it dings up when I cut hard wood. The khukuri or Bolo are better on hard stuff, but on green vegetation the long machete really tears through stuff.
 
Machetes are great for clearing brush, but you do need to be careful with them. Trying to drive them into larger diameter stuff might find you whacking your shin with it-- bad form in a survival or wilderness situation. Self amputation really sucks when you are solo hiking! Good self-defense properties though. A pack saw can be very light and compact and you would need to be pretty clumsy to do yourself real damage with one.

As good Scouts, we really shouldn't be whacking up the woods unless we really need to. Farming and yard work is another case. I reckon you could knock down an acre of hemp real quick like with a good machete :) Huh? No, Officer, we're making our own rope..... (oops)

I have a Martindale golok on order--- bought it on a whim to fill in on the chopper side of my wilderness tools. Anybody familiar with them and how effective a chopping tool they are?
 
I have spent the last 20 years trying to find anything that will out preform [my machete] and I have failed. I think my dad spent about $15 for it back them with a canvas sheath. I have spent probably $1200-1500 in the last few years searching for something that will do a better job. ...So far no luck. I have bought about a dozen large blades and nothing compares to the machete.

I have only found a few large blades that will sink as deep into wood with one stroke. Those that do are always MUCH heavier than the machete. In fact, only the largest of blade that weight a few pounds were able to out chop the machete. The thing is, the machete does it with a flick of the wrist where the beasts do it with all your might.

I'd be very curious to hear what kind of other blades you've been comparing to. Have you been mostly using knives with the same blade length (18")? Or been trying with stout bowies with 10" blades or something? If a machete has been working well for you, then of course I wouldn't expect a 3 pound khukri to be a good comparison. But have you tried other light & long blades that used proper tapers & mass distribution? I have found a blade that works much better than a machete for my purposes- faster & easier to swing, and hits harder at the same time- so I know it's possible. Have you looked at any of the lighter golok type pieces?
 
I really like your post- very level headed! I've used an Ontario 18" Machete to clear saplings, vines and bamboo for years. I do agree with the risk comments- you can do major damage with slight deflection- right into your shin, knee or other hand. I've lost mine on the backswing once and never used it without a wrist lanyard since.
RE: The Martindale Golok. It has fabulous balance and 'pushes' force effectively due to it's blade geometry. It's kinda like a Khuri meshed with a short Machete or parang. It's an ideal limber but not an ideal chopper. It's fairly good for clearing vines and reeds too. Not bad on bamboo 1" or smaller. One point. The blade rusts like mad so keep it covered in oil/grease whatever. I seasoned mine with Militec1.

Machetes are great for clearing brush, but you do need to be careful with them. Trying to drive them into larger diameter stuff might find you whacking your shin with it-- bad form in a survival or wilderness situation. Self amputation really sucks when you are solo hiking! Good self-defense properties though. A pack saw can be very light and compact and you would need to be pretty clumsy to do yourself real damage with one.

As good Scouts, we really shouldn't be whacking up the woods unless we really need to. Farming and yard work is another case. I reckon you could knock down an acre of hemp real quick like with a good machete :) Huh? No, Officer, we're making our own rope..... (oops)

I have a Martindale golok on order--- bought it on a whim to fill in on the chopper side of my wilderness tools. Anybody familiar with them and how effective a chopping tool they are?
 
Very good points. Indeed, the dynamic of the swing is key to how long blades deliver such devastatingly effective blows! Basically, the longer the arc that the sweet spot travels, the more potential energy it can amass. We also know that the friction of impact is mitigated by speed. So a longer lighter blade will deliver the most efficient blow at the point of impact.
This holds equally true for a 18"-26" machete or a Wakizashi, Tanto or Sabre or Cutlass. Shorter blades with weightforward and distal tapered geomerty such as the Martindale Golok, Parangs and Bolos really move more towards the harvesting category- making them Good for grasses but great for saplings, limbs and cane, banana or bamboo.
It really boils down to matching the blade to the task.:D

I'd be very curious to hear what kind of other blades you've been comparing to. Have you been mostly using knives with the same blade length (18")? Or been trying with stout bowies with 10" blades or something? If a machete has been working well for you, then of course I wouldn't expect a 3 pound khukri to be a good comparison. But have you tried other light & long blades that used proper tapers & mass distribution? I have found a blade that works much better than a machete for my purposes- faster & easier to swing, and hits harder at the same time- so I know it's possible. Have you looked at any of the lighter golok type pieces?
 
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