Nice mods ! Did you just cut off the "excess" top part of the sheath or did you sew or glue the cut edges ?
I cut off the excess top part, but only the front half, so the back is still there and connects the sheath to the original belt loop. I melted the edges of the nylon where I cut it, so it would not fray. And I took off the top of the two snap loops, which sat too high to hold the handle. I have the impression that the Cold Steel sheaths are a bit long, the 18 inch that I got for the old machete just swallows up the entire thing, handle and all, I need the lanyard that I attached to pull it out of the sheath. For any normal, straight blade it does not really matter if the length of the sheath is a bit too generous, but in the case of the bolo, the lower snap would not close over the handle when it was sitting inside the sheath - which was the only way to get the wide blade tip to really enter into the sheath. Hence the sheath would not close. But ten minutes with a sharp Mora knife from the garage, a pair of scissors and a lighter solved the problem.
The advantage of gear as cheap as this (the Tram bolo came for just 17 euros and the sheath for less than 9, so the whole combo stayed way under 30 euros; I had to throw in the sheath for the old blade and a couple of standard Moras to reach the limit for free transport...) is that you don't need to care when you start modifying it - the financial loss if you break it is too modest to worry about.
A machete like the Tramontina comes very rough around the edges, literally, but for this price you need to look at it as a kind of 'half product'. You get the raw, crude base that allows you to adapt it to your personal needs. And maybe most of their original user base in South America has the habit of building their own sheaths as well as adapt the blades.
The mods to the blade in close-up near the tip:
You can see how rough the edge was out of the box, just right of the branch. Towards the tip it came totally blunt, the tip was so rough the steel was literally fraying, and it just had no real point, not even round. The spine was all burrs and ran full thickness all the way towards the tip. I ground a bit of an edge on top of the tip, quite steep, more like an axe (don't ask me for any angles, I always sharpen by feel). Most of the steel I took off was done with a flat file, like the finishing on the spine. My favorite sharpening stone is the two-sided puck from Gransfors, which I always use for my axes. It came in very handy here.
The idea is that I can now use the axe-like spinal edge of the tip to dig out roots from tougher weeds that I want to get rid of, using it backhanded without damaging the main edge. I am righthanded, so don't need to change the grip for that; just cut through the brush or weed from left ro right above the ground and then push the blade into the ground and wriggle out the roots in the opposite direction, which is quite natural. Just like a little spade.
I also cleaned up the main edge and convexed it a bit, where the main grind transitions into the flat of the blade, so it won't get stuck so fast in wood and can bite deeper. The newly sharpened blade bit pretty deep with that one blow. In hazelwood, semi-dry. It flew through 20 mm thick green beech branches as if they were not even there. Scary.
Every man needs a machete. And a Mora. ;-)