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fitzo said:
Anytime Michael, next time I'll even let you buy.
-
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Machining set-up?
- Thread starter PetersonME
- Start date
Anytime Michael, next time I'll even let you buy.
Mike, the way I see it I have a very good situation.
I get to use this beauty every day, I do not have to do the maintenance, my boss pays for the expensive cutters and other accessories, I get paid to use her and I can play with knives on her on week-ends.
Then I just walk away.
Oh, how I would love to own her though.....
Mike
I get to use this beauty every day, I do not have to do the maintenance, my boss pays for the expensive cutters and other accessories, I get paid to use her and I can play with knives on her on week-ends.
Then I just walk away.
Oh, how I would love to own her though.....
Mike
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I would love to spend a weeked with an experienced machinist like you or Mr. Higgins. There are a few stange sounds coming from the head on my machine and I have never heard a Bridgeport run so I dont know if mine needs work or what. There are 3 guys on this forum that seem to know Bridgports, one in California, one in New England and now you in Canada. Why the hell cant you people live in Wisconsin?!!!
I think I need new screws too, the chromed ways are in excelent condition but I have about .040" of backlash in the x and the y. If the ways have no wear on them how can the screws be worn? If the ways were rechromed, why wouldnt they have replaced the screws?
I think I need new screws too, the chromed ways are in excelent condition but I have about .040" of backlash in the x and the y. If the ways have no wear on them how can the screws be worn? If the ways were rechromed, why wouldnt they have replaced the screws?
Seems like we are both geographically screwed Mike.
I have often bemoaned the fact that knifemakers are so few and far between up here. Only one I met awhile ago took off to France, the others I know are in South Africa.
If you have so much backlash, the machine is still good to use. I have worked with some fairly wrecked machines over the last 30 years and many things are possible if you respect some basics.
All machines have a bit of backlash, they have come pretty close to eliminating it on CNC machines but they have highly precision ground screws that run with ball bearings and there is the computer that compensates too.
There should be lock screws on the x and y axis, ones that you can adjust by hand. Tighten these up so that you just feel a BIT of resistance when you turn those lovely handles. This will not eliminate the backlash but it will help against lateral movement.
Most important, NEVER "climb" cut. I do not know how much you know about machining so forgive me if I tell you something you already know.
Always cut in the same direction as your cutter is turning and you should not have a problem. This way the cutter is pushing against the job and the force is even. It is when you come back (climb cut) that problems start if you have a lot of backlash. The cutter will bite into the steel and pull itself along and ruin the job and very probably, the cutter. I have seen this even with new, top-of-the-range machines. It is just the nature of things.
I hope this helps.
If I can be of more assistance, just ask. If I was close by I would be an absolute pest.
As for the sounds in the head, I would have to hear it. Do you have a variable speed or geared head?
Mike
I have often bemoaned the fact that knifemakers are so few and far between up here. Only one I met awhile ago took off to France, the others I know are in South Africa.
If you have so much backlash, the machine is still good to use. I have worked with some fairly wrecked machines over the last 30 years and many things are possible if you respect some basics.
All machines have a bit of backlash, they have come pretty close to eliminating it on CNC machines but they have highly precision ground screws that run with ball bearings and there is the computer that compensates too.
There should be lock screws on the x and y axis, ones that you can adjust by hand. Tighten these up so that you just feel a BIT of resistance when you turn those lovely handles. This will not eliminate the backlash but it will help against lateral movement.
Most important, NEVER "climb" cut. I do not know how much you know about machining so forgive me if I tell you something you already know.
Always cut in the same direction as your cutter is turning and you should not have a problem. This way the cutter is pushing against the job and the force is even. It is when you come back (climb cut) that problems start if you have a lot of backlash. The cutter will bite into the steel and pull itself along and ruin the job and very probably, the cutter. I have seen this even with new, top-of-the-range machines. It is just the nature of things.
I hope this helps.
If I can be of more assistance, just ask. If I was close by I would be an absolute pest.
As for the sounds in the head, I would have to hear it. Do you have a variable speed or geared head?
Mike
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I have a variable head, made in 1974. 1.5 hp and I have a rotary phase converter.miden said:Seems like we are both geographically screwed Mike.
I have often bemoaned the fact that knifemakers are so few and far between up here. Only one I met awhile ago took off to France, the others I know are in South Africa.
If you have so much backlash, the machine is still good to use. I have worked with some fairly wrecked machines over the last 30 years and many things are possible if you respect some basics.
All machines have a bit of backlash, they have come pretty close to eliminating it on CNC machines but they have highly precision ground screws that run with ball bearings and there is the computer that compensates too.
There should be lock screws on the x and y axis, ones that you can adjust by hand. Tighten these up so that you just feel a BIT of resistance when you turn those lovely handles. This will not eliminate the backlash but it will help against lateral movement.
Most important, NEVER "climb" cut. I do not know how much you know about machining so forgive me if I tell you something you already know.
Always cut in the same direction as your cutter is turning and you should not have a problem. This way the cutter is pushing against the job and the force is even. It is when you come back (climb cut) that problems start if you have a lot of backlash. The cutter will bite into the steel and pull itself along and ruin the job and very probably, the cutter. I have seen this even with new, top-of-the-range machines. It is just the nature of things.
I hope this helps.
If I can be of more assistance, just ask. If I was close by I would be an absolute pest.
As for the sounds in the head, I would have to hear it. Do you have a variable speed or geared head?
Mike
Are you saying I should cut from left to right and back to front?
This machine was tipped over at one point so the Y axis screw is slightly bent. It really isnt a problem other than the fact that I cant use the micrometer nut because if I tighten it, it hits the front of the mill every half turn.
Anyone know where I can get a Y axis screw for a 9x42 table?
Is the Y axis screw hard to change?
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fitzo said:Mike, isn't Chantal Gilbert up in your area? She'd be nice to watch make a knife.
Nicer than New Berlin? Shut the Hell up!
Left to right and back to front.
Are you using the side or the "bottom" of the cutter?
As for the head, there is normally a belt inside which runs on pulleys that open and close as you adjust the speed, take a look at that and see if there is anything nasty. All I can say at this point. Dunno what sound it is making.
Mike
Are you using the side or the "bottom" of the cutter?
As for the head, there is normally a belt inside which runs on pulleys that open and close as you adjust the speed, take a look at that and see if there is anything nasty. All I can say at this point. Dunno what sound it is making.
Mike
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miden said:
The side of the cutter.
1/2" solid carbide 4 flute cutter and Im taking about a .125" cut in mild steel.
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just the very end of the screw that the handle mounts to is bent, The screw turns very smooth through out the whole range.miden said:
If you are using the side of the cutter, keep it on the right of the steel you are cutting, regardless. Just keep it to the right. If you use the side of the cutter the "backlash demon" really comes into play if you climb cut.
Those carbide cutters are not cheap!!
.125" is not too much for that size cutter. Always use the section closest to where the flutes end though, the shank is more solid and will give a more sturdy cut than if you cut with the bottom of the cutter.
Those carbide cutters are not cheap!!
.125" is not too much for that size cutter. Always use the section closest to where the flutes end though, the shank is more solid and will give a more sturdy cut than if you cut with the bottom of the cutter.
Fitzo,
As to your question about the Compact 5, no, I do not know for certain. However, Blue Ridge shows the 5 and super 11 on their site and they indicate that it is built in Austria. My father left me one, when he passed, and it is a very nice little lathe.
Emco is still a major manufacturer of larger machine tools and the Austrians make superb products. In another life, in the Audio business, I visited several of the AKG facilities in Vienna. They had machine shops that would rival any hospital OR for cleanliness and efficiency. It was absolutely stunning to see.
Allen
As to your question about the Compact 5, no, I do not know for certain. However, Blue Ridge shows the 5 and super 11 on their site and they indicate that it is built in Austria. My father left me one, when he passed, and it is a very nice little lathe.
Emco is still a major manufacturer of larger machine tools and the Austrians make superb products. In another life, in the Audio business, I visited several of the AKG facilities in Vienna. They had machine shops that would rival any hospital OR for cleanliness and efficiency. It was absolutely stunning to see.
Allen
