Machinist friend will make me a jig. Suggestions?

R

Rancho5

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Feb 10, 2015
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I'm a beginner who has been practicing flat grinds on my Craftsman 2x42. My friend was over today and said he'd make me a jig. I showed him some pictures of some of the fancier jigs like that cool one with all the slots and the polished handles where the file guide slides into the slots, for like $200, and he said, "that's nice...I can see why it's so expensive." So while he will make me one, apparently he won't make me too fancy of one. It's a favor after all. I showed him Aaron Gough's very cool jig and I think that's too fancy as well.

And he said making me a file guide would be no problem.

So if you have suggestions, or can post pics of a "medium-ish machinist buildable" jig, that I can use with a file guide I'd appreciate it. My friend also liked the screws that can adjust the jigs angles.

He said he'd be open to making them for others too, as a side gig after work.

That being said, while we are at it should we make a different grinder rest for the 2x42?

Any help appreciated. And before "learn how to grind free hand" becomes the phrase of the day, please know that I am :-)
 
There's a couple things on the Craftsman 2x42 that are gonna need worked on IMO. The work rest and the platen. They're both a little flimsy. I'm sure a platen could be made to connect to the grinder in the place where the original one does. I'm not sure about the work rest. You might want to make a work rest that sits independent from the machine. Use a angle finder and/or a 1-2-3 block to square it up to the platen. There's no point in building a jig for precise flat grinds if you have those two parts creating uncontrollable variables.

After getting the above two things fixed I'd just build a simple jig using angle iron. That's what I have and use for scandis. I'm not the only one either. Adventure Sworn, which is the premier scandi makers in the world, use a fixture like this. You'll have to consult your machinist as to whether the bevel angle should be set with either the platen or the work rest. IMO I don't like having the angle set on the jig.

My jig is in the second to last post on page 7
http://bushcraftusa.com/forum/showthread.php/81426-Scandi-Grinding-Jig-Tutorial
 
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This can be built by a machinist. Fred
 
gredpe3 said:
Get him to make you a 2x72 grinder!
Click to expand...

I actually thought about that a few minutes ago. What "simple" plans would you suggest? Simple so that he won't look at them and think, "Crap, I have to make this?"

Preferably using skate board wheels. He'd think that was really cool, not to mention the cost savings.
 
gredpe3 said:
Get him to make you a 2x72 grinder!
Click to expand...


^^^^^ That! Also, I wish new makers (I am a relatively new maker as well) would see the wisdom in ditching the jigs (except at Irish parties) and learning to grind freehand. Just put in the practice and you will get the hang of it before you know it. In any case, make sure you post pictures of the jig your friend builds for you.
 
Rancho5 said:
I actually thought about that a few minutes ago. What "simple" plans would you suggest? Simple so that he won't look at them and think, "Crap, I have to make this?"

Preferably using skate board wheels. He'd think that was really cool, not to mention the cost savings.
Click to expand...

Show him a KMG and see what he thinks.
 
Look up the plans for the EERF grinder ( free spelled backwards). A 2X72 will be the best favor he could do for you.
You could also buy a GIB kit ( grinder in a box) from someplace like Polar Bear Forge and have him assemble it and do some modification to make extra rests and jigs for it.

Whatever you do, don't scrimp on the wheels with things like skateboard wheels to make it. The wheels and bearings on a grinder are more robust.....for a reason.
 
The differences between the 2 X 42 and the 2 X 72 makes for a long list. The effort needed to grind a decent blade on one, if spent in building the other would pay you back in short time in the blades you produce and the satisfaction you will get from doing so. Finding a good motor and control is a good start when trying to put together a bigger and better grinder. Once you have the motor the grinder will come.

Many of us depend on and trade favors, with our multi talented friends, in order to get the machines we want for knife making. I owe a great deal to my friends.

Fred
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Whatever you do, don't scrimp on the wheels with things like skateboard wheels to make it. The wheels and bearings on a grinder are more robust.....for a reason.
Click to expand...

I can see using a bigger shaft/bearing for a contact wheel but using skate parts for the platen wheels seems fine to me. Those little 608 bearings are rated to nearly 200lbs of radial load each.
 
While a 2x72 would be great, I doubt your friend is going to think much of going from his offer of building you a simple jig to building a 2x72 grinder. There is quite a bit of time difference. A simple piece of 2 inch angle with a couple of tapped 1/4" holes and bolts will work fine as a grinding jig. Here is a photo of one that I have used. Although, I suggest you learn to grind freehand as soon as possible and one of Fred's bubble jigs would help with that.

As far as a work rest on the 2x42, I used to just c-clamp a piece of 12 ga sheet metal to the stock rest. This gave me plenty of support for my sled jig.

jig.png
 
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got it thanks guys, looks neat! i think i might try out the d-d one though. i just bought one of his work rests for my grizzly and its amazing.
 
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