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Mad Dog handle epoxy?
- Thread starter Longbaugh
- Start date
- Joined
- Sep 12, 2007
- Messages
- 709
I have no idea what the compound would be that he uses, but if you use JB weld you will most definitely get a thin grey line in between the slabs and the tang!
toughest all around may be acraglass from brownells. good enuff is golf shafting epoxy like conap or golfsmith. high tech stuff for phenolic to metal that will beat all the others is loctite stuff like speedbonder 324 or depend 330. the thing that trumps all epoxy hands down is proper surface preparation..
- Joined
- Dec 2, 1999
- Messages
- 9,910
Tracy, what color is the speedbonder and depend epoxy? Do you sell them both? Didnt one of those win the epoxy war on here a while back?
they both dry to a semi cloudy kinda clear yellow looking stuff.
I sell both but that wasn't my intent in commenting in this thread. I don't like to try and push stuff here so I tend to avoid a lot of threads lately.
I tested speedbonder 324 and it held an ungodly amount of weight with metal to metal bond. I did not test depend 330 but have used it quite a bit since those tests and it's as good if not better as the speedbonder stuff. It's more general purpose. The speedbonders are very narrow in their applications. One is for heat thermal cycling, another one is for nearly instant set time, another one holds up well in wet environments. The depend 330 is designed to be general purpose and compromises on some of the specific attributes but does well over all. When I sell through on my current stock of speedbonder, I'm just going to carry the depend 330 in the anarobic industrial stuff. It's pretty good stuff.
- Joined
- Nov 28, 2005
- Messages
- 293
Anything thats made to build boats out of aka Structural Marine Epoxy is going to surpass the strength needed for any knife handle. Currently I'm using a 2 part jell that comes out of a can. Last week I needed to break two things I stuck together apart, stainless and home made micarta. I beat it with a ten pound sledge hammer and then took it to a friends and tried use a hydraulic press and its still together. The only way I could figure out to get the pieces apart was with a cutting torch or a grinder and I don't want to breathe that as its easier to leave it lay and replace it.
When my current jell runs out I plan to switch to a two part liquid like west systems as its easier to work with, the website is very straight forward.
http://westsystem.com/
MAS has some very good info but they have many products so its a little confusing. As long as you stick with any 2 part epoxy thats made and sold as structural marine epoxy you should be good to go.
http://www.masepoxies.com/public/
The golf epoxy should be fine but it is designed to fail with heat, I would not use it because because of that even though its unlikely for the knife handle to heat up and fail. I suspect McClung is just using something like west systems but has no interest in revealing he just runs over to the boat shop for supplies, mystery is much more valuable in marketing.
When my current jell runs out I plan to switch to a two part liquid like west systems as its easier to work with, the website is very straight forward.
http://westsystem.com/
MAS has some very good info but they have many products so its a little confusing. As long as you stick with any 2 part epoxy thats made and sold as structural marine epoxy you should be good to go.
http://www.masepoxies.com/public/
The golf epoxy should be fine but it is designed to fail with heat, I would not use it because because of that even though its unlikely for the knife handle to heat up and fail. I suspect McClung is just using something like west systems but has no interest in revealing he just runs over to the boat shop for supplies, mystery is much more valuable in marketing.