Made myself a sheath for my AD

foxyrick

foxyrick

British Pork
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Dec 26, 2006
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I'm quite chuffed* with this, so I hope no-one minds me posting it here. There's been the occasional thread about home-made stuff so I think it's OK...

I made myself a sheath for my Busse Active Duty. For my first leather sheath, if I do say so myself, it's not too bad at all!

For some reason, the dye that got on the stud took the colour off it(!) but it was my last one so I've ordered some more. I'll replace it and polish it up a bit more when the new studs arrive.


*chuffed - seems to have different meanings in different places - it means I'm happy ;)

Before:

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After:

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I've never made one myself, but I definitely wouldn't have thought that to be a first try. Usually the stitching is a dead giveaway, but yours looks perfectly even. Nice job!
 
You've every reason to be chuffed [and yeah, I am using chuffed in the same way you did ;-)].

As spyderguy said, can't fault your stitching. Looks like you've buffed the long cut edge too. That's a nice touch that I would expect on a first attempt.

Are you getting your leather in on mainland UK or over the interwebs?
 
Thanks for the compliments on the stitching. I marked it our with a stitch wheel, then drilled with a modeling drill I used to use for making circuit boards. The groove was made with a screwdriver! The only proper leather-working tools I have are the stitch wheel, some saddler's needles and a thing for hammering the studs on.

I used a sharp knife mainly for getting the edges nice, then 600 grit SiC paper to finish it. My patience started to run out near the end so it's not finished quite as nicely as it could have been.

I bought the leather of eBay (UK), from a guy selling half a hide, about 4mm thick. It's not in very good condition so I had to pick the best bit out. There's still enough left for a good number of sheaths.

There are a some good leather dealers in the UK but it's not cheap, and I'm a cheapskate! (Or, I would rather spend the money on sharp, point steel!)
 
I keep a place quite near Friends for Leather in Brighton. When I was over that way I used to nip in there and have a rummage. A few times I came away with some nice thick stuff in good sizes. The route seems closed now. Ho hum, as much as I rather enjoy making leather things there's nothing I'm in a hurry to own. Just wondered if there was some obvious bargain outlet I may have missed. :-)
 
Very nice and clean, Rick! In fact, for a first sheath, it's outstanding!

I've gone this route on my sheaths now: glue, trim, groove and drill for stitching and drill for any studs or snaps, dye, seal, then sew and install snaps. This keeps the stitching and snaps from the dye and sealant.

I like it! :thumbup:
 
Outstanding! Even if it wasn't your first sheath, even more so that it is!

This kinda stuff is always welcome by me, I like seeing what other people are doing themselves.
 
StretchNM said:
Very nice and clean, Rick! In fact, for a first sheath, it's outstanding!

I've gone this route on my sheaths now: glue, trim, groove and drill for stitching and drill for any studs or snaps, dye, seal, then sew and install snaps. This keeps the stitching and snaps from the dye and sealant.

I like it! :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Thanks!

I wanted the thread dying because I didn't have black thread, but that aside your order looks better.

Do you find the glue causes any problems with the dye?

Also, after dying the leather is much harder; does that not cause problems when stitching and fitting the snaps? Do you soften the leather again first?
 
I don;t soften it Rick. On my sheaths, (I'm an amateur, mind you) I wet form the sheath around the knife for a tight fit. So....the leather is hard when it dries. I'll re-wet it to add lines or texture, but then I let it dry again before dyeing and sewing, etc.

I use Fieblings dye (alcohol based). It doesn;t make the leather too hard to add snaps or sew. I've used Fieblings oil base in black, and it doesn;t change the leather either. I never soften the leather for sewing or snaps. I use a 1/16" drill bit on the drill press for the holes, and then I enlarge the holes with an awl pushed in from both sides before sewing.

The glue will absolutely interfere with any dye. I always sand my edges to not only shape and smooth the welt area, but also I make sure no glue is present. I use Fieblings Edgecoat for the edge - it's soupier and thicker than dye.

Another problem area is where the beltstrap attaches to the sheath. If sewn and the stitching is exposed on the inside of the sheath, the stitches can wear out and leave the sheath without a beltstrap. What I do is, after glueing the strap to the back of the sheath, lay out the holes and drill them. Then open the sheath and, on the inside, rout out a thin section for a thin piece of leather - cut to fit. Then, after stitching, glue this piece of leather over the routed out area and it protects the stitches.

Just a thought.....
ENZO-Sheath-dtl-07.jpg


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The leather I use for this is scrap pieces of deerskin. I think that's what it is, but any thin leather will do - about 2 oz leather, I'm guessing.

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HERE it is ready to dye, seal, then sew and drill for and set the rivet.
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That's great, thanks Stretch. I'll definitely do that bit to protect the stitching next time; I hadn't thought of that.

I think I should get a proper grooving tool as well for the next one.

Nice sheath you've done there!
 
Thanks Rick. My intent was not to show a sheath - this is your thread, but I did want to show the "inlaid" protector and how the holes are drilled and everything ready before dyeing.

You can get brown stitching thread at any hobby store. The thread showing the picture is from Hobby Lobby. Just remember: (for the inlay thing) you must first drill the holes, then "rout" out for the thin leather, then stitch. I've gotten sloppy before and stitched before routing out for the leather. Then I realize it's too late to rout out, so I just cover the stitches with epoxy. On some blades this will scratch the blade when sheathing/unsheathing.

Also, on protecting the beltstrap stitching: even IF the stitching is not down where the blade edge might not cut it, bear in mind if it's not protected that it will wear out just from sheathing and un-sheathing the knife, even if only a small part of the handle is the only thing it comes in contact with. Don;t axe me how I know this ((( :D )))
 
Yeah, you've made me realise that my thread is in danger. The AD has a strongly textured G10 handle that just goes over the stitching. I'll shave a thin piece of sacrificial leather and glue it on. There's just enough room for the extra thickness.

And thanks again for the pictures, they illustrate your method perfectly. I see the threads completely as group efforts and the more pictures the better! All the more to learn from.
 
Good looking sheath! It inspired me to make one for myself. Did you use a flat pattern? Can you post the pattern if you used one?

Thanks and

stay sharp.
 
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