Maintaining convex grind with stone?

sweetcostarica said:
Honing - This final process, the one you describe is what I have not been doing. You're patience in explaining it has given me all I need to start. After this message I will buy a Japanese whetstone 1000 grit or maybe 1200 grit and practice honing my lesser value Kukri. Thanks as always Karda.
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Don't need no phancy schmansy whetstone or waterstones. A decent quality double sided stone will do nicely, or even a coarse rock.
 
Karda said:
Don't need no phancy schmansy whetstone or waterstones. A decent quality double sided stone will do nicely, or even a coarse rock.
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Ok, copy that. I am starting to like this method because it's user friendly in cost effectiveness and application.
Karda could you make a short video on this process from 240 grit sandpaper to final honing with stone. This way everyone will learn a good sharpening technique. I wish you were in Anchorage because I would volunteer to film it and make you a YouTube personality ;).
 
Anytime you sharpen on a stone freehand you will get a convex edge. The hand naturally does this as no human is perfect. It's as simple as that. The method Murray was showing in the video was simply an advance technique on how to blend that convex edge. But bear in mind you don't need that advanced step to achieve a convex edge.
 
Karda said:
Don't need no phancy schmansy whetstone or waterstones. A decent quality double sided stone will do nicely, or even a coarse rock.
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Karda is exactly right. You don't "need"fancy whetstones,waterstones,etc., to sharpen effectively.However,the resulting edge will be a mirror of the skill and equipment used to sharpen it.Another myth is that you need to thin an edge to get it sharp.In fact, fairly obtuse edge angles can be quite sharp if honed correctly. Sharpening skill is something all blade owners should learn-it goes with the territory.No harm in watching video tutorials from experts even if you don't share their philosophy.
 
sweetcostarica said:
Ok, copy that. I am starting to like this method because it's user friendly in cost effectiveness and application.
Karda could you make a short video on this process from 240 grit sandpaper to final honing with stone. This way everyone will learn a good sharpening technique. I wish you were in Anchorage because I would volunteer to film it and make you a YouTube personality ;).
Click to expand...

I tried the sandpaper and mouse pad trick with 400 grit paper and then onto 600 grit pater (this is what was in the garage). I was able to restore my convex edge and then I touched it up with the white ceramic rods on the spyderco sharpmaker. It was kind of hard to stop sharpening. Now it is like a samurai sword which is really scary. I probably went too far but I was having such a good time.... I think I am going to turn all of my blades into convex grinds at some point...
 
I just use small strips of automotive sandpaper and two fingers. Initially I usually work my way from either 220 or 400-600-800-1000-1500-2000 to go back up to mirror finish. But during usage seasons I usually maintain it with 400-800. I also use a Sharpmaker, Lansky puck, Sharpening steel,Diamond steel rod, Ceramic rod, Large wet rock, 6" Mill Bastard file, Fingernail files. Leatherman file, SAK file, 1x30 belt sander, stuff like that.
 
I am really liking my DMT Unbreakable Ceramic rod for my BAS. It is big, almost an inch in diameter and 14" long. I have never been a fan of the sandpaper method but a flat stone is not going to work on the recurve. I have a wicked sharp edge on my BAS with a generous number of passes on the Ceramic rod. I am sure it it still pretty obtuse too so I think I am not sacrificing any edge strength. This DMT Unbreakable Ceramic is one heck of a tool. It is unbreakable because, unlike most ceramic rods, it is aluminum with some sort of coating fused and baked on to the aluminum.

That is going to be my go to tool for Khukuri sharpening.
 
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