Maintaining CRKs factory edge

snowreaper1

snowreaper1

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So I want to know how you guys keep your Sebenzas edge factory sharp.
I think the edge put on by CRK is one of the sharpest out of box.
I need to buy a strop and compound so Id like to get some advice for what
combinations of these things you guys use. What grits do you start at and
proceed to use and is there any brand of compound that stands out.
Thanks!
 
Edge Pro Apex. Start with 220 or 400 grit stone and progress to 5,000 grit Chosera Stone. I use 1,000 and 3,000 Choseras in the progression. Sometimes, rarely, I will finish with a 10,000 grit Chosera. Edit: After further reflection, I will most likely use the 10k for my CR Knives.
I also have a SharpMaker but barely use it anymore, never used it on my CR knives.
The Wicked Edge Sharpener is another option. I have never used it, but there are many favorable reviews.
Check out the Maintenance Forum for more info.
 
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I use a Sharpmaker with Ultra Fine rods and it works great for touch ups.

For some reason my Sebenza didn't come as sharp as I was expecting, but I was able to easily put a very, very sharp edge on it using the Sharpmaker.
 
sunstar said:
Edge Pro Apex. Start with 220 or 400 grit stone and progress to 5,000 grit Chosera Stone. I use 1,000 and 3,000 Choseras in the progression. Sometimes, rarely, I will finish with a 10,000 grit Chosera.
I also have a SharpMaker but barely use it anymore, never used it on my CR knives.
The wicked Edge Sharpener is another option. I have never used it, but there are many favorable reviews.
Check out the Maintenance Forum for more info.
Click to expand...

Where did you get the chosera stones? and they fit the apex?
 
I use the belt sander going from 600-800-1200-9micron-greenstrop-redstrop... of course the grit i start at depends on its condition.
 
For maintenence I use a home made leather strop attached to a piece of wood and DMT 6 micron diamond paste. It keeps it at a very high level of polish. However if I get a ding in the edge or I wait too long between strop sessions I'll use my sharpmaker.
 
Aren't we losing the factory convex when we start using these guided sharpening system? Isn't the OP more "on to" the way to sharpen a Sebenza? :)

I wondered the same thing. Mine is still like a razor but I was thinking about the same question. I was thinking DMT 6, 3, 1, micron paste on balsa.

Or, if it got really bad a very high grit sandpaper on top of a hard/firm strop, going spine first with edge trailing strokes to maintain the convex edge.

:confused:
 
Yea Im mainly intertested in keeping the exact edge on my Sebenza the way it is originally. Im not planning on getting the edge dull enough to even have to use a sharpmaker or other sharpening method.
I ended up buying a two sided strop from a guy who hand makes them on ebay. It comes with two compounds, the white ones semi aggressive and the black is more aggressive. I would like to pick up the DMT 6 3 1 but ill see how this works out first. I might even try to put a mirror finish on it. Well see.
 
You can make a poor mans sharpening system by using a thick piece of cardboard or mouse pad and placing different grits of sandpaper on it. You can find up to 2000 - 4000 grit in the automotive section of your local really world. Place on the edge of a table and work the blade from hilt to tip on both sides starting from lower grits and working your way up until you are satisfied.

The hand motion combined with the "giving" cardboard/mouse pad will give you the convex finish like the factory and won't cost more than the sandpaper (perhaps $2.99 per grit). I use 400, 800, 1000, 2000, & 4000 when available when I want to convex an edge.

Hope this helps, J.
 
I use a Wicked Edge, but now I have enough Sebenza's when one gets dull I switch it out and send it back for a touch up and double silver lugs if it needs it.

You do loose the convex with the guided systems, but that is no big deal really to me. When I have all my Sebenza's the way I want i'll start using the WE again.
 
atony said:
I use a Wicked Edge, but now I have enough Sebenza's when one gets dull I switch it out and send it back for a touch up and double silver lugs if it needs it.

You do loose the convex with the guided systems, but that is no big deal really to me.
Click to expand...
When I have all my Sebenza's the way I want i'll start using the WE again.
Click to expand...

I agree atony. Sharp is sharp. I've never owned a convex edge before and I won't know how to sharpen my Sebenza when it gets dull. I sure don't want to go the mousepad and sandpaper route. I'm scared I'd booger it up. :)
 
I re-profiled my large sebenza from 40 degrees inclusive to 30 degrees inclusive on the Sharpmaker. I started off with the diamond rods, followed by the dark grey coarse rods, followed by the white fine rods, and finished up the ultra fine rods. The results in one word: "Incredible". By the time I was done I was easily able to split hairs right down the middle...insane sharpness. I was a bit scared to reprofile from the "factory" edge (a factory edge from CRK is like none other I have seen...so so sharp) but once I got started I was committed...and the end product was outstanding!
 
kurtras said:
I re-profiled my large sebenza from 40 degrees inclusive to 30 degrees inclusive on the Sharpmaker. I started off with the diamond rods, followed by the dark grey coarse rods, followed by the white fine rods, and finished up the ultra fine rods. The results in one word: "Incredible". By the time I was done I was easily able to split hairs right down the middle...insane sharpness. I was a bit scared to reprofile from the "factory" edge (a factory edge from CRK is like none other I have seen...so so sharp) but once I got started I was committed...and the end product was outstanding!
Click to expand...

Pictures of hair whittling or it never happened!! :D
 
CRK recommends using the Sharpmaker set on 40 degrees inclusive. If you have a Wicked Edge, you can set the angles to 18-20 degrees and just use the strops to keep your convex edge at factory. 18 degrees if you use more pressure to allow the leather to form to the edge without rolling over, 20 degrees if you use just light pressure to ensure you're actually hitting the edge. Works great.
 
Medic1210 said:
CRK recommends using the Sharpmaker set on 40 degrees inclusive. If you have a Wicked Edge, you can set the angles to 18-20 degrees and just use the strops to keep your convex edge at factory. 18 degrees if you use more pressure to allow the leather to form to the edge without rolling over, 20 degrees if you use just light pressure to ensure you're actually hitting the edge. Works great.
Click to expand...

If I'm understanding you Medic, you (or CRK) is saying to get the very outermost cutting edge of the blade sharp in a V grind method and then bringing it back into convex with your strop to follow up? I think that would work. :)
 
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