Maintenance on H1 blades

H1 can't rust, but it can corrode through contact with very acid or base chemicals. The kind that would affect your skin or lungs, as well the kind that a coating of oil won't make a difference. Sweat or saltwater isn't enough to do anything. There's no point in keeping oil on the blade. I've been carrying and using H1 around seawater and in harsh environments for almost 20 years now. Kept a Pacific Salt in the shower for years. No rust or corrosion on any H1 blades.

Don't overthink it.
 
Like many I keep my blades oiled to avoid moisture which inevitably leads to rust. But what about H1 steel which is rust proof. Is there a point in keeping it oil or even dry for the matter?
IMO, the only reason to have H1 is to allow less strict anti-rust maintenance , in uses that would tend rust even most regular "stainless" . :cool::thumbsup:

That's it's only "super power" . ;)

 
My H1 Spyderco Aqua Salt went missing for 4 years, just found it, not a speck of rust. It is coated though.

Unless you are keeping it in a salt heavy environment say like the gulf coast then I wouldn't worry too much

However, if it's a folding knife, the internals are usually not H1, so occasional care would be needed in corrosive environments.
Yeah, I saw an H1 Salt on a fishing boat that was ALLLL gunked up with rust at the pivot, all the internals...spreading out onto the FRN! I think they may have CQI'd this a little, though, as I've seen new ones that withstood salt-hell. Or maybe the guy used chemicals.
EDIT: As a little side-bar, can anyone tell me WHAT exactly those Spyderco Salt knives that are green, I think, with the blade that looks just like an Endura?! They call it "Salt" but I have seen "Salt" that looks like a Dragonfly, then the Endura-looking one... is it just a Salt-ified Endura in LC200N? Because it sure looks like it.
 
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IMO, the only reason to have H1 is to allow less strict anti-rust maintenance , in uses that would tend rust even most regular "stainless" . :cool::thumbsup:

That's it's only "super power" . ;)

I agree fully... why would I get some H-1 that won't keep an edge, when LC200N exists, and Magnacut is coming? I want a Salt knife, I just cannot find a compelling reason to pick H1 over LC200N. It seems better in every conceivable way. (To everyone:) is there something I am missing about H1?

I almost got that H-1 Salt when I was just getting into knives and higher-end knives, I was crushing HARD on Spyderco and just wanted any Spyderco, wanted a Civilian, actually, but was still a few months off to where I'd spend $200+ on a knife. Surprised I didn't end up with a Chinese one...(actually, the Spyderco Bug was technically my first so I guess I did) I almost bought this with the serrated hawkbill as my first Spydie, thank good reason that I did not and waited it out for a PM2 S45VN, and bought a Matriarch 2.

I hear that hawkbill shape is actually really useful for EDC. How do you like it?
 
I agree fully... why would I get some H-1 that won't keep an edge, when LC200N exists, and Magnacut is coming? I want a Salt knife, I just cannot find a compelling reason to pick H1 over LC200N. It seems better in every conceivable way. (To everyone:) is there something I am missing about H1?

Some people like ease of sharpening, and it doesn't get any easier than H1.
 
EDIT: As a little side-bar, can anyone tell me WHAT exactly those Spyderco Salt knives that are green, I think, with the blade that looks just like an Endura?! They call it "Salt" but I have seen "Salt" that looks like a Dragonfly, then the Endura-looking one... is it just a Salt-ified Endura in LC200N? Because it sure looks like it.
To the best of my understanding, the green Pacific Salt is indeed a "Salt" Endura. The former H1 models were similar, but with a slightly different handle design, and I think with the LC200N versions they brought it more in line with (if not exactly like) the regular Endura. Likewise the Salt 2 is the Delica version.


As to the OP's question of how I treat my H1 blades: I 've done a good bit of kayaking both in the Atlantic (including surf kayaking) and in the brackish waters of Canaveral, and the treatment I've given them is a good hosing off afterwards just like I do the rest of my gear. No need to oil whatsoever IMO.
 
I agree fully... why would I get some H-1 that won't keep an edge, when LC200N exists, and Magnacut is coming? I want a Salt knife, I just cannot find a compelling reason to pick H1 over LC200N. It seems better in every conceivable way. (To everyone:) is there something I am missing about H1?

I almost got that H-1 Salt when I was just getting into knives and higher-end knives, I was crushing HARD on Spyderco and just wanted any Spyderco, wanted a Civilian, actually, but was still a few months off to where I'd spend $200+ on a knife. Surprised I didn't end up with a Chinese one...(actually, the Spyderco Bug was technically my first so I guess I did) I almost bought this with the serrated hawkbill as my first Spydie, thank good reason that I did not and waited it out for a PM2 S45VN, and bought a Matriarch 2.

I hear that hawkbill shape is actually really useful for EDC. How do you like it?
Serrated H1 keeps a good edge.
 
To the best of my understanding, the green Pacific Salt is indeed a "Salt" Endura. The former H1 models were similar, but with a slightly different handle design, and I think with the LC200N versions they brought it more in line with (if not exactly like) the regular Endura. Likewise the Salt 2 is the Delica version.
Does that mean the green Salts have liners?
 
Blade shapes are slightly different, too. Pac Salts have a taller thumb ramp, and Enduras hvae a pointier tip. Not to mention ti vs stainless clips.
 
The only time I recall H1 getting badly corroded was when someone left it wet on some pool chlorine (sorry, can't find the link). Of course, that's not rust, it's corrosion due to a highly alkaline chemical.
 
I hear that hawkbill shape is actually really useful for EDC. How do you like it?
Yes , orange handled Spyderhawk is primarily a light utility knife and excels in cutting rope or any tough yet flexible material .

The hook/curve tends to grab , trap and slice thru anything in its path . :cool::thumbsup::thumbsup:

The top knife is a Spyderco Warrior , mostly designed as a fighter .

Both are H1 .
 
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My H1 Atlantic Salt darkened around the laser etching after wearing it clipped in my trunks in a pool.
 
H1 might not be corrosion proof (it certainly wouldn't stand up to chlorine trifluoride) but it is extremely corrosion resistant. My son once worked for a pool maintenance company and spent all day opening pool chemical bags. After the first day his S30V blade had a lot of rust. I got him an H1 DF, and he used it for months without a trace of corrosion. In normal use I wouldn't bother with oiling the blade.
 
I'll oil down some tools for long term storage, especially over the winter, but not my knives. They're generally kept bone dry in drawers along with multiple silica gel packs. After use, I make sure they're cleaned and dried. If they're used on plants (many have toxic juices) or anything briny, they get rinsed before drying.

There's no such thing as rust proof. Even galvanized bolts will eventually rust. Other than disease, the biggest enemy of the military is always corrosion. Even the International Space Station is subject to rust.
 
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