Make an Omega style wrist cuffs. (WIP)

[Omega Leather Works]

So I've wanted to do a simple walk through on how I make cuffs for a while. They are not complex, yet I believe they are attractive. I get comments on the one I made for myself often enough I figured I'd start making and selling them.

These could be made very simply without an overlay, maybe with a cool dye job or stamping. I wanted to focus on using exotic skins because they are very appealing to me and to many people.

I use shark more often than anything else, but for this walk through I'll be using snake. There are a couple of construction differences between shark and snake, I'll cover those when we get there.

Note- throughout this wip, I'll be typing "skin" and "leather". I'm referring to the snake hide when I say skin. I'm calling the cowhide leather.

Things you'll need-

Leather strap/belt blank/ability to cut off your own strip from your hide. I use 7/8oz and I feel it's the perfect weight. You could get away with a bit lighter, but I wouldn't go thicker. I started by buying 1.5" belt blanks but that's not really cost effective. A straight cut on a shoulder/double shoulder and an inexpensive strap cutter is all you need to make a ton of cuffs.

Exotic skin. Shark, snake, beaver tail, ostrich, possibly ray, gator, etc. The thing to consider is that you'll need to sew through the skin, it should be reasonably tough and durable. Some snake scales will get jacked from rubbing in the wrong direction so choose accordingly.

This skin wasn't ideal because it's pretty stiff and the scales could have been a problem down the road.

Tools-

If you have a decent kit for sheath making then you have what you need to make cuffs.

I use a no.2 edger

Stitch groover

Overstitcher

Ruler/pen

Round knife

Belt sander

Drill press

1mm tiger thread

#2 John James needles (x2)

Fiebings dyes

Angelus (black) acrylic leather paint

Tan-Kote or beeswax/coconut oil emulsion

Sam Browne stud

----------------------

First thing to do is measure your wrist (or have the customer measure his). My wrist is 7 1/4" and most people are somewhere around that.

You have the option of having the entire cuff covered in skin, but I prefer to leave a little leather exposed at the ends because it allows an opportunity for creative dyeing.

This particular skin has an interesting pattern and it's way more than enough both in length and width. In fact, if I didn't like the pattern so much I could have gotten 2 or 4 cuffs out of this single piece.

Alright, so we have our materials. Time to cut em up.

The customer for this cuff has a 7" wrist. You need to cut it longer in order to have room for overlap and hardware. I'm using a Sam Browne stud, but a snap would work as well. I cut it at 9" to give myself some space.

Now what I want to do is make some reference marks so I don't lose track of what I'm doing.





More to come...

 

[vilePossum]

Yes! You know I have been waiting for this, don't you?! Sorry to post before you were done, but this got me excited. Looking forward to the rest of your tutorial.

 

[Omega Leather Works]

Yes! You know I have been waiting for this, don't you?! Sorry to post before you were done, but this got me excited. Looking forward to the rest of your tutorial.

No worries brother, I don't mind at all.

 

[Omega Leather Works]

The markings here show where the ends of the skin will be as well as the placement for the stud and hole.

Checking your math a few times is a good idea, but you may need to adjust on the fly as well. A full coverage overlay is easier in this regard because you can simply trim the length until it fits. Fortunately the customer's wrist and my own are only about 1/4" off, so it's easy enough for me to pattern after my personal cuff.

I use the strap ends from my existing cuff to cut the new ones. You can use a strap end punch, or mark the line from a template, pill bottle, coffee cup, etc

I mentioned in another thread that pre curving the leather to match the skin is important. Here's why.

With the help of my daughter, I wrapped the skin around the leather while it was rolled into its on-the-wrist position. Holding the ends of the skin we straightened everything. You can see the difference in length. I think it's okay to have the occasional compression on the skin, but gluing it down flat, then curving it around may put too much stress on the relatively thin snake skin. Just something to think about.

After you decide which section of the skin you want to use, trace the outline of the leather strap onto the back of the skin.

Cut along the lines. Try to be accurate, but if you're going to err, err on the side of being too large. In any case we are going to grind down each side before we're done, so don't worry if you're off a little.

Next you need to trim the length of the snake skin. No math necessary here. You just need it cut back enough to place the hardware and give you room for the dye I mentioned before. I do try to keep it symmetrical.

I want it to be about here-

To cut the ends I just use a ruler as a square. Looks cockeyed in pic, but it is, in fact, square.

We're going to want to do a bit of dye work now. We'll need to do more later, but for now we need to lay down a base coat.

I meant to take a pic at this point, but it's easy enough to explain. Basically lay your skin down exactly where you want it (pre curved), then draw a line across the leather just under the skin. These are reference lines for dyeing as well as for your cement.

I dye the exposed leather ends, sides and just past the line.

Before we dye anything, let's clean the leather a bit. We talked about it in another thread. I use alcohol and water on a paper towel. Notice the yuck on the towel.

Let it dry. Or not. Some like to apply dye while the leather is damp. I let it dry.

Whenever you're ready, dye the ends and edges.

You need not worry about the dye job being a masterpiece at this point. Basically all you're really doing is ensuring that there is a nice transition from the snake skin to dyed leather. It's important to dye the transition now because it'll be difficult to dye after you've glued the skin down.

Okay, at this point you're ready to cement your parts together. You're going to be stitching it all together, but the cement is really important. It keeps the skin from lifting in the center and keeps the small amount of skin on the outside of the stitching from lifting, rolling, or any other unwanted nonsense.

So remember those perfectly artistic lines we drew just under the skin?

We're going to use those as a guide for placing the cement. You want to paint the glue right up to, and just a hair past, the line. Follow all the rules of cement use. Multiple thin layers are better than a thick one, let it dry before putting the pieces together, look for shiny, if it's not shiny when dry it soaked in and needs another coat, etc

Make absolutely sure that you get a good amount of cement on back of the skin. Especially at the corners and edges. You may not get the exact right amount on the leather, at least make sure that the skin is properly done. Again, the stitching will help, but you want to look at it like the cement is all you have for a bond.

By the way, you have the option of using the smooth side of the leather on the inside of the cuff. This would mean rough out at the ends, but that might be cool. I would definitely consider flesh-to-flesh if you are going to go with full coverage on the top. The reason why I like smooth up is because I like how the inside of the cuff feels and looks after I've applied the finish. More on that later.

In the meantime, if you are going smooth up, I recommend sanding the smooth surface of the leather before laying down your cement.

Here both pieces have their cement in place and are drying.

That's all for now. I'll add more soon. Let me know if you have any questions.

 

[vilePossum]

Thank you for this awesome thread, now how do I request a sticky? There is so much information in here already.
On a side note, I think you accidentally deleted the closing img tag bracket on the second to last picture.

 

[Omega Leather Works]

Thank you for this awesome thread, now how do I request a sticky? There is so much information in here already.
On a side note, I think you accidentally deleted the closing img tag bracket on the second to last picture.

Thanks bud, I noticed that right after I hit reply.

Kiah can put a link in the sticky links thread if he so chooses.

 

[kaizo]

Brilliant work Ant! Ever been tempted to make a watch strap variant?

 

[Kiah]

Thanks bud, I noticed that right after I hit reply.

Kiah can put a link in the sticky links thread if he so chooses.

I do. :thumbup:

 

[Omega Leather Works]

Alright guys, so when you go to mate the two pieces together you need to do this with precision. If you are really good at laying vinyl graphics on cars, or those tiny water stickers on plastic models you'll be fine.

I start at one end and curve the leather. After making sure it's perfectly straight, I let the skin sort of fall in place.

Use a mallet to tap the entire surface to help the glue do its thing.

Now it's time to start getting the back ready for stitching.

You need a visual on the back of exactly where the skin ends. To get this I eyeball a straight edge and line it up.

Holding the straight edge in place, I mark my line.

Now you have a representation of where the snake skin is with good accuracy. It's time to mark off your groove/overstitch lines.

I use a measurement of approximately 1/8" at the ends and 3/16" at the sides for snake. The sides will lose a little width from beveling and sanding. I want to get the stitches pretty close to the edge. With shark (or any thicker leather) I'm a little more relaxed.

Mark off your lines.

Yes, I know I got that bottom line screwed up. No big deal. In fact, none of those pen marks will matter in a little while.

Groovy.

For the end grooves you should use a freehand groover. The one I have converts to a freehand. In a pinch I *have* used an adjustable v-gouge and it worked fine.

Now it's time to mark out your hole spacing using the overstitcher. Try to get the corner holes even. If you have used an overstitcher I'm sure you've figured out a way.

Get a bit of water in your groove all the way around.

I used 5spi, you can go with whichever wheel you like.

Moving on, let's bevel the edges!

I insist on a sharp beveler. You should too! I couldn't get a pic of mine, but it is polished nicely.

Seriously though, you do want your tool as sharp as possible. It helps with cutting paper thin snake skin, soft shark, thin veg tanned and on and on. It's just not possible with a dull tool.

When I'm going to bevel an edge like we have here, I'll start in the middle, then flip it around and finish that side. The reason is because even with a very sharp tool it can grab the corner of the snake skin.

Start in the middle.

Finish it off.

I don't bother with the ends yet because they still need to be sanded so that the curve is perfect.

I mentioned somewhere else that, using a #2 beveler, you'll get a curl of the snake and leather together.

Pretty cool.

Enough for now. I'll be back to drill holes, do some finishing work, and sew it up

 

[Kekoa61]

Cool thread Anthony! The snake skin is pretty exotic. I really like the one you identify as your personal cuff...is that sharkskin on it? It is bad-ass, as is all of your work.

 

[Omega Leather Works]

Brilliant work Ant! Ever been tempted to make a watch strap variant?

Tempted? I have been. I would think shark with a pigskin liner would be pretty nice. I think it would go best with an Omega watch.

Cool thread Anthony! The snake skin is pretty exotic. I really like the one you identify as your personal cuff...is that sharkskin on it? It is bad-ass, as is all of your work.

Yeah, sharkskin. Of all the leathers I've handled it's my favorite by a wide margin, but then there are many I have yet to work with. I'm looking forward to beaver tail and ray very much.

 

[Omega Leather Works]

Alright, let's tie this pig up!

It's time to perforate. I've talked about my method of making holes at length in other threads, but I'll go over it again quickly.

I buy "doll" needles. Unfortunately there are no marks on the package that id the sizes. If you find the 5 pack at Walmart I use the largest needle for 1mm thread. Btw, I use 1mm 99% of the time. The needle, as delivered, is too long. You'll want to clip off enough that leaves you enough length to chuck in the drill and have about an inch, or a little longer, left sticking out. This really makes the needle stable. I also have a piece of wood on the steel drill press table. It doesn't dull the needle.

Now it's just a matter of "drilling" the holes.

Now we are going to get the cuff ready for hardware. Again, I'm using a Sam Browne, but you can use a snap if you're so inclined.

First thing is finding the exact location for the hardware. Take a look at this pic. To the left, on the side of the leather, is the location mark for where to place the hole. Measuring the width, the cuff is exactly 1.5" therefore the hole should be right at 3/4".

I use a molder point to dot the spot.

I know which punch tube to use because I've done it plenty of times, however, you can just take your hardware and match it to the best tube. The hardware in this case is the threaded post that screws into the stud.

Find the position on the other side for the receiver hole, then punch it.

After that you need to cut your slit. I have an old Opinel that I ground into a short wharncliffe. The thing is absolutely stupid sharp and cuts the line with no effort.

I punch a small hole at the end of the slit, but no one else that I know of does. Probably doesn't help anything, but I like the look.

Now it's time to break out one of my favorite things in doing these cuffs. I know many don't like leather paint or edge coating products for sheath work, but this stuff is awesome for other uses.

It's kind of a thick opaque dye that sits on the surface rather than soaking in. It's particularly well suited for doing the edges and the back. I personally find it comfortable against my skin. I do sand the edges just like I would for burnishing, but since it coats the leather any nap sticking up will be covered.

The primary uses for me are the sponge dabbing on the leather ends, getting inside the receiver holes and slit, and the mentioned edges and back.

My tube for doing the post hole is just small enough that the post needs to be threaded through the hole. Just like I like it.

After the post is in place I use blue loc-tite. Horsewright suggests white glue in a pinch, and Paul Long uses JB Weld. All should do an excellent job of securing the stud.

Loc-tite

Sew that puppy up.

All that's left is to admire your work.

Fits a bit tight on me, but that's perfect. Should fit the customer just right.

Thanks for looking, and feel free to ask any questions. You can pm or email if you feel more comfortable that way too.

 

[Kohai999]

Nice workmanship, very good WIP.

I'd like to see a metal omega somewhere on the the cuff to identify your work and give a bit of accent.

Other than that, rock on!

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson

 

[Kekoa61]

Finished product looks great Ant. I really enjoyed following this thread, thanks for posting!

 

[Horsewright]

Good deal Strig. Very nice and a great looking product at the end.

 

[vilePossum]

thank you for your time and effort to make this thread. very nice result, i like the the red and black combination with the snakeskin alot!
btw, i think your pictures broke my internet

 

[magnetik]

great writeup!

 

[Macan]

You did a god work at the end with that black dye.:thumbup: I would try maybe with some sort of frame

 

[Omega Leather Works]

You did a god work at the end with that black dye.:thumbup: I would try maybe with some sort of frame

Like a sheath inlay frame? Never thought of that. Hmm...

Thanks gentlemen. I do find these fun to do when I have the time.

Steven, that would look pretty sick actually. I wonder if that might eventually draw the attention of the watch company though. Don't need a cease and desist!

Jimmy, I hope it works well for you. Btw, I wore mine to pt yesterday. The gal that works with me wants one, as well as a sheath for one of her several Kershaw's.

 

[Kohai999]

Steven, that would look pretty sick actually. I wonder if that might eventually draw the attention of the watch company though. Don't need a cease and desist!

You are not going to get a cease and desist from a watch company unless you start making watches. They can trademark "their" Omega, but they cannot trademark ALL Omegas.

Draw one up, and either make a pin or insert or have one made. It would look pretty sick, and just add both style and credit to the maker. Right now, I don't see anything on your work identifying it as yours....all it is gonna take is some "me too" jackwagon to mass produce these, since you have shown the how to, step by step to actively IDENTIFY their work...and then they get all the glory.

Be aggressive in owning what you make, and showing the world how proud of it you are by putting a mark on it that can be seen from across the room....accept no imitations or imitators!!

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson