Bud,
You are exactly right. It is the knife education level of the individual that is responsible for how much money a collector will spend and which knife they will buy.
If I have learned nothing else on this forum, it is that there are several different collecting/buying styles.
While money is important to all of us. There are those here in similar income situations, with the similar amounts of disposable income. However, while one of these collectors will put down $500 for a knife and walk away smiling, the other will find his stomach in knots when looking at spending that kind of money for a knife.
It is not the money, it is the knife education level. I have people at every show who walk up to me and show me their new knives. They beam with pride as they take the knife out and show it to me. More times than not my first thought is "what were they thinking". It is not so much the knife as what they paid for it.
When I look at the knife and here X amount of dollars were paid for it, two or three other makers will pop into my head who do superior work for less money.
The difference is the knife education level.
During the seminar at the Blade Show which I was part of. I told the collectors there, "don't reward makers for poor work or mistakes". Do not give them your money.
To the makers out there, yes you have to pay your dues. Regarding the importance of the "name". To the collector, the name is much more important in the after market than in the primary market.
Most of the custom knives purchased today are like cars. The minute you pay for it, it has depreciated. This is due to a combination of factors and not just one.
Bud wrote about the maker asking $100 for a knife and had no takers. The $100 to $200 price range may be the most difficult price range to sell knives in.
Usually, these are new makers, which means you are buying their mistakes. You are paying for them to learn to get to the point like the famous Utah Maker who gets $400 for a similar knife.
Your reward may be, if you hold onto the knife long enough. That the maker becomes world famous and the knife you have triples in value. The reality is, this will happen to very few makers.
Now, this does not mean that your knife will not go up in value, it may. But a lot of that depends on the maker.
Makers who over price their knives will not be around long. The competiton out there right now is at an all time high. You have to do it better, cleaner and for a little less money than the knife should sell for.
Take Jerry Fisk for instance, you can still get a carbon steel fighter from him for under $900.00. Now this is a guy with a 4 year wait, is the heir apparent to Bill Moran and is the only National Living Treasure in the custom knife community.
At this point, you have to ask yourself do I pass on the $375.00 and $475.00 knives and put the money together and get one of Jerry's knives. You do if you are looking at your knife purchases as an ivestment.
Rule #1, buy what you like.
There is nothing wrong with asking a knife maker how they arrived at the price. I do this all the time. I never knew you could arrive at a price from so many different directions.
In fairness to the makers, there are so many variables to take into account that it is very difficutl to come up with a price for knvies.
If you price them to cheap, you get Bud's customer, who after looking at the $400 knife, thinks that the other makers knife at $100 must be full of flaws. If you price the knife close to the famous Utah Maker price, then you get beat up for not having paid your dues.
The answer is the maker must price the knife to make his business pay for its self. You may find two makers side by side with similar knives. One is $50 more than the other, why is that? If you don't know, you need to start doing your homework.
You as a collector need to understand the multitude of variables and how they will affect price in the primary market and in the secondary market.
Question, you have three identical hunting knives by the same maker on the table. All three are the same price. One knife has Mastodon Ivory Scales, One has Elephant Ivory scales and the third as Fossil Walrus Ivory Scales. Which one, long term is the better investment?
Yes, the apperance does come into play, but only to the point where some people prefer white, some carmels and some blue/green.
Why is Fossil Walrus or Mastodon with a "pink" hue to it, the rarest and some of the most expensive Ivory in the world?
This is just a small example of why you need to know cost of materials. Did you know that Ivory takes about 4 times as long to work as wood? Do you know why?
So not only does Ivory cost more (material wise) it is more labor intensive. So how much more should Ivory cost than say Stag? The price difference between the two is changing all the time, do you know why?
Ok, Ill get off my soap box. The point is, you as the collector will ultimately make the determination of which knives will make you get your wallet out.
Rule #1, Buy what you like.
But also, know what you are buying.