Maker's mark--Engraved?

Kevin Cross

Kevin Cross

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Sep 13, 2006
Messages
865

I have been using electro-etch/stencils for a few years now but results on damascus blades are not always as professional as I would like. I was wondering if the jewelers flat engraving type machine that use a diamond stylist could be used to "sign" a hardened blade either before or after hardening?

Does anyone have any experience or recommendations with this?

Thanks, Kevin
 
The diamond drag stylus will mark the steel. I'm not sure how it would work/look on deeply etched damascus. If you want to send me a test piece, I'll try it and see.
I have 3 Hermes pantograph machines.
 
I have and use a Pantograph, simple drag type by Hermes they mark damascus very nicely, however the fonts is where you get limitations. But you can have your signature engraved onto a single brass or plastic plate, and then use that template for your mark.
Hope that helps a bit, and its not a cheap set up from the gate search ebay.
Greg
 
Bill Burke said:
you can't sign a hardened blade before hardening no matter what you use to do it.
Click to expand...
Ha! I see what you did there.:p

I think Phil Hartsfield signed all of his blades using a stylus of some sort. He was my first thought .
 
Over the years I have engraved initials on knife blades of finished knives. I used my table top panographic engraver that has a diamond stylus...typical small jewelry store unit. Most came out with bright lines...not very deep, but very readable. No one told me I couldn't do it :) ...Teddy
 
About 80% of my blades have the makers mark engraved with a standard pantograph. It allows sizing to fit the blade, and also allows other info to be marked, like steel type, date, or other special info. I offer to personalize the other side of each knife I sell with the owners name and any other info. Often I will mark a fillet knife being given as a gift something like - "Capt. Ron Smith - Daydreamer"

I find a pantograph marks damascus well. Not deep, but it shows.

One day, I plan on setting up the power head on the pantograph, and using a 1mm carbide bit in the quill. It may not work, but if it does, it may be a good way to get wider and deeper marks that can be filled with colored resin. It should be a good way to mark logos and things like my kanji.
 
Local maker used a photograph and stylus....IIRC he did a lootttttt of passes to out a deep mark in Damascus. He had a simple mark though.
 
photograph? or pantograph?

Repeating passes with a diamond stylus on the pantograph will deepen and widen the engraving a tad, but it isn't much changed, and can make the mark look ragged.
 
Stacy-
Using the rotary head will work, but it will wear out quickly. The bearings are not set up to cut steel.
You need a Gorton.
 
I have a self contained micromotor head that is similar to the ones used on CNC engravers. It accepts 1/16 shaft bits. I have to do some adapting to mount it.
 
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Thanks guys, it looks like something I should investigate further. Also looks like I should becareful what I type when Mr. Burke is watching.....he just won't let me do the impossible!
 
Well I will disagree with Mr Burke in that if you stamp a blade before HT it will work. Did it for years before I went to the Pantograph. Did it with both, my initials and JS. I had the same experience as the OP. I did not like the stamp as it was inconsistent, even with a holder in an arbor press. Also I was stuck with one size on all my knives. The pantograph allows me to vary size, font and orientation easily. I had a plate made with my name and JS in the font I wanted. I also do a few side jobs here and there, marked a gun barrel here a few months ago.

One I did on a knife the local gun store bought for the Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation dinner

guncraftersandRMEFcloseup_zps6cb9d50a.jpg
 
no problem Chuck. I was going to bet you alot of money that you couldn't stamp a "hardened" blade prior to hardening so Rick saved you some money.
 
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