Maker's Mark--Etching Good, Marking Not So Much

Langadune

Langadune

Joined
Apr 19, 2012
Messages
212
I'm using a homemade electro etcher to apply my maker's mark to blades. I'm using (if I remember correction) about 14 volts DC to etch my mark, using IMG stencils. The mark comes out very crisp and clean and I'm very happy with it. When I switch to AC to mark the edge, I'm not so happy. The marking appears somewhat rusty and not very dark. Also, it wipes off completely when I clean the blade. The AC voltage is stepped down with a doorbell transformer.

I get the same result on my post HT 1095 and post HT 154CM. I'm using a felt contact pad which works great for me. My electrolyte is a simple warm salt-water mix which etches great. I've tried using the same pad for etching and marking, and I've also tried switching pads between etching and marking, both with the same result.

Any suggestions?
 
I couldn't get the doorbell transformer to work at all. I bought an "automatic battery float charger" at harbor freight that already had alligator clamps on it for like $8. I cut off the float box section and wired the clamps directly into the 16V transformer (plugin) and it works like a charm.
 
Have you considered using professional etching solutions instead of saline?
 
Might be your solution, not sure. I use Marking Methods etching solution and the Personalizer etcher. I couldn't afford the Personalizer Plus at the time. My normal method is to etch for 2 minutes, mark for 2 minutes. Leaves a very deep mark that looks like a stamp, with black in the etch. For stainless I cut the time just a bit. Also my maker's mark is a simple design with fine letters, a thicker design might work differently.

I do know when etching I pretty much hold the pad constant the whole time, when marking I lift it every 10 seconds or so and make sure the stencil is getting damp. Sometimes lightly rubbing it.

Try some scrap that's finished like a knife and practice different times and different saturation levels of your felt pad and see what works best for you.
 
I may break down and try some professional solution. My mark is pretty simple and not very thick (don't have picks at the moment). I usually etch 10 seconds or so at a time for about 2 minutes. Pretty much the same for attempting a mark.
 
Seems to me if you're getting a proper etch initially, then the solution probably isn't the problem. Maybe the saturation. I'm no expert, but have gotten good results with saline.
 
PM me your address and I'll send you a small bottle of #94 to test with. I've found salt water etches great, but doesn't mark very well.
 
Did a few and to me it seems different steels darken differently.
Some spring steel becomes deep black and D2 a bit more rusty.
Even the rusty ones look black until they dry up.
Rubbing the marks with Baking soda and a toothbrush right after darkening helps a bit.
 
Thanks for the input guys. I think I'll try a better electrolyte. If that doesn't work, I'll revisit my A/C power supply.
 
By the way, what is your electrode underneath the felt pad? Metal no doubt... in which case, have you checked the condition of that surface lately? I find that If I don't replace felt and sand off the electrode surface every few knives, my etch sucks in some way.

Just another thing to check, if you haven't.
 
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