makers mark/ puttin your name on it

Matt Shade

Matt Shade

Joined
Nov 24, 1999
Messages
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I didn't worry about it much before since I wasn't making too many knives. Now I've picked up the pace and have given quite a few away, and I'd like to put my name on it somewhere.

What do you guys think about putting it in filework? I've been putting vine filework on everything (thanks for the tutorial bruce) and am starting to play around with some new patterns too. I think it would be fairly easy to put SHADE (ommiting the "hole" in the A and D) into the the back spacer on a folder, or the tang of a fixed blade. What do you guys think of that idea? You don't think it would spoil the look of the knife do you? I'd try to put it in an out o the way place like the butt of the handle or on the grip edge of the tang near the bolsters.


I thought about name plates, but that didn't work out to well on the one I made for a black powder rifle I'm building. (el cheapo diamond dremel bits should be avoided like the plague! ;) ) and I can't think of anywhere to mount it on the style of knives I've been doing.
I don't have the stuff to etch with, and everything has been full hollow grinds with the plunge right at the bolster. So there isn't much to work with on the blade.
 
What type of system, is entirely up to you, of course. But with an etcher, you can put the mark anywhere. It doesn't have to be at the choil.
bowie2002@comcast.net
This guy (Ron Claiborne) makes an excellent etcher, at a reasonable price.
 
Thanks
I'll keep that in mind for down the road. Since I don't have any money coming in off my knives, yet, I'm trying to resist the urge to buy a bunch of new tools :)
 
Quote "I'm trying to resist the urge to buy a bunch of new tools"

You know of course, that this goes completely against the code of knifemaking, which is, to obtain as many tools as possible.;) :D
 
Have you read Wayne Goddard's "Wonder of Knifemakeing"?

In one article he describes a cheap and efective etch, "Logo etching with Salt water". In the article he takes wax and applies it with a hot iron to the clean blade. Then scratch his logo in the wax after it cools, and etches. Wayne states that red ski wax will work fine, and that he uses a 50/50 mix of beeswax and microcrystalline wax. You want to keep your wax clean because any lint or trash will let the etch eat trough the resist.

It aparently takes a real good source of 6volt DC power, such as a 6volt battery or variable voltage power supply for electronic work. A power supply from an old computer will also work, but toy transformers and battery eleminators will give a ragged etch because the power is not as pure.

He mixes the salt water etchant in an old style half ounce india ink bottle. Then just add a pinch of salt, too much and the etch gets uneven and may even eat the wax away. If your tap watter doesnt work try distilled water.

The negitive lead goes to a 5/32" stainless TIG wire that is 5-6" long. Cut a slot in the end and pry it apart just far enough so that it will grip the cotton swab by the cotton covered end. Leave about havl of the cotton part sticking out and pull the cotton to make it fluffy.

You need to apply an even coating, it can be to thick or to thin, try some scrap pieces first to pratice.

The stylus tool needs to have a well polished ball end on it so it does not dig into the blade;it needs to slide on the surface.

The positive is put on the blade with an alligator clamp with the negative going to the swab holder. He uses a dropper from the ink bottle to put a little puddle of the etchant on the blade. The Cotton swab is soaked with salt water and lowered down till it just rests in the puddle. Be careful not to jam the cotton swab into the wax or you can ruin the mark. Turn the 6voltDC on for five minits to start, too much voltage will melt the wax, or it may eat holes in your resist.

I haven't tried it because by the time I found this I had aready purchased stencils and an etcher. I have the Personalizer and am well satisfied with it. However my first few knives would have been marked had I known of this methoud, and I might just have saved some money on the etcher. I don't have the address, but Bob Warner's site showes how to built an etcher and how to make stencils. If you give it a try let us know how it goes.

Hope this helps,

Will
 
Alright I lied,
My name is Matt and I'm a knifemaking tool addict.I've been buying tools like crazy. Its an addiction I try to hide, and generally deny. The real truth is that the top of my workbench is nearly covered with tools that won't fit in the drawers, and if I keep up at the same rate I'll have to sit on the floor and work ;)


Thanks Will
Theres so many books I want to read, but it seems like if I'm going to read it should be the stuff they're lecturing on in class. So I don't :D
That method sounds fairly easy other than I would have to make a stencil of some sort for scribing the mark into the wax. My writin aint so good. Thats probably not too big of a deal though, I may try it.
 
Matt, I like your idea. I just don't know about doing your whole name. How about something that would become your maker's mark? It takes some exposure before people identify it with your name but it does happen in time. It's "branding" and big companies use it all the time.
 
Yeah, doing the whole name depends on how small I can make it. 5 letters shouldn't be too bad. Definitely not an option for everybody ;)
A mark/logo is something I would consider if/when I start selling them. I guess I could put it on the knives I give away but with friends an family it seems like my name makes more sense :confused:
 
Matt, fileworked into the tang sounds like a great idea.
Very original too.
How about (if you want to keep it low key) on the tang on the bottom of the handle?
Or even work it into the vine...somewhere in the middle?

I'm no knifemaker, but a customer who absolutely despises names that look like billboards on blades.
Sorry, rant mode off.
:)
 
Thanks. Thats how I was thinking of doing it. Maybe a vine all the way down the spine and then on the opposite side an inch or so of vine on either side of my name.
I have to agree about the billboard thing. Some folks go to so much trouble to put a good finish on a blade an then completely mask it over on one side with their logo. Haven't seen anything posted on here that I really thought looked bad, but I definitely think that it has to be a big blade for the logo to really work well on it.
 
Hello Matt. I specialize in liner lock folders. I sign my name with a scribe on the inside of the titanium spacer that I file work on the inside as well as the outside. I sure wish I could find an etching system for titanium. I'm sure not great at scribing even my own name. Frank.
 
Matt,

I think the filework name on the tang or even the back of the blade would be quite cool. Very original and would blend in well with any filework. Definitely not a billboard, yet would definitely bring a large number of smiles when a they see the name hidden in the open.

I'd go with it...

Dan
 
I forgot to add...
At the last show here in NYC, I had the pleasure of meeting Mr. Alex Daniels. He does amazing high-end antique bowie repros. He had his name engraved (?) into the spine of the blade and filled with gold. It was sooooooooooooooo classy.
Just a little more food for thought ;)
 
Count 1 vote for the fileworked letters...

I've been playing around with an idea lately (and anyone is welcome to comment on this one). I've been putting filework around the tang of a full tang blade and then filling it in with colored/dusted epoxy at glue up time. A light and patient sanding/finishing...and it looks pretty neat.

My next go is similar to yours: letters or symbols in the filework with epoxy filled in.

Have to be super careful though - air bubbles can come back to haunt you later...

My reasoning for the epoxy infill is simple: It creates a solid contrast to the steel (vs. air) and it keeps the handle smooth.

I wish I could say I was inspired by somebody else, but I've never seen someone do this...kinda "fell into it" myself...:D

Best of luck and be sure to show pics when you're finished!
 
Matt,

I think placing your name on a knife with file work would look great. I never thought of that.

Jeff
 
My first investment in art was an indian made bowl, it cost me a total of $28.00. she signed her name on the bottom of the bowl with a pencil and handed it to me in a used grocery brown paper bag. This purchase was about 1954, the bowl is now worth about $8,000. The maker, Maria, the potter of San ElDefanso.

That is why I smile every time I put my initials on a blade with a vibro engraver.
 
Ed that's a fantasic story, thanks. I have a rug purchased similarly. It is very special to me.

Dave
 
Thanks Guys
Looks like all thats left is to try it. I s'pose I could try to come up with a pic or two if it turns out.Have to see if my parents scanner is any good. Never had much luck borrowing my mom's digital camera.

Thats neat about the bowl Ed. How hard did you bite your tongue when you found out how much "that old candy dish on the coffee table" was worth ;)
Writing your name with something is great provided people can read it...in my case it kind of defeats the point. My ability in that respect kind of peaked back when I was usin jumbo crayons :D
 
Gosh...I was kinda hoping somebody would have said "Oh...I've been doing that for years..." (filework with epoxy infill)

Or maybe "That's the worse idea I've ever heard..."

The silence is disturbing...

Good luck with your projects, Matt.

Dan
 
Pendentive
Thanks, I need it.
If it makes you feel any better, I'm pretty sure that ddavelarsen did the colored epoxy trick on at least one knife. Think it was for his daughter and had red spacers with matching epoxy around the file work. Could probably find pics if you did a search, or he might email them to you. It was pretty impressive.
My memory aint so good though, so it might have been someone else. I know that I saw it one here.:confused:
 
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