Maker's mark question

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Mar 14, 2013
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I've made a few knives and am progressing well but I've never made a 'maker's mark'. An idea I had was to use an adhesive back vinyl and also use a vinyl cutter to cut out a reverse logo. Then I'd stick it to the blade and apply some sort of light acid through the vinyl mask.

Is this even a good idea? I know absolutely nothing about acid etching and am aware of all the info that's available but I've never heard of anyone doing it like this before. Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Rusty
 
That method would work only so-so. Along the edge of the mark it would be fuzzy, as the etchant will slightly run up under the mask.

For doing acid etching, the full blade is coated with a resist ( asphaltum is a common one), and the design is cut/scratched through the resist. The acids are not user friendly for novices. This isn the only practical way for doing art etching on blades. David Boye's book - "Knifemaking" covers this quite well.

The preferred way is to etch them in with electricity. There are professionally built marking etchers, like the Personalizer Plus, and home brew ones made from a phone charger. The stencils can be home made, but most use the pros who work from your artwork or request and make a sheet/book of reusable stencils. There are many of these folks, with Ernie being a popular one around here.

This is the BF search engine.:
https://www.google.com/cse/home?cx=011197018607028182644:qfobr3dlcra
Use it to find many threads on marking blades, acid etching, stencils, and etchers.
 
I saw a video online the other day where a guy had a bunch of preprinted logos or makers marks on one big sheet and he cut one out. The sheet looked like clear vellum( that clear drafting type) and the marks were on that and looked like black printed logos. He cut one off the sheet and used a home brew power source with q-tip to etch his mark. Are the logos he had what one would get from Ernie or are the ones Ernie sells something completely different like a template?

Jay
 
Here is my home brewed setup. It works quite well, though I haven't tested the AC/AC power supply yet. The etch pictured last was done prior to getting the AC/AC supply.

This is all the supplies needed. Most is self-explanatory, but you'll need heavily saturated salt water, cotton pads of some type, something to clean all the oils off the metal, and something to use as a resist.


The AC/DC power supply. My Granny-In-Law found it in the parking lot of the Costco she works at, I'm pretty sure it is from a laptop or maybe a printer, though I'm not sure. Laptop power supplies work good. The DC current will etch the metal.


The AC/AC power supply. I bought it off Amazon for $8.95 after shipping. The AC current will darken the etch.


The resists I used for the etch below, vinyl stick-on letters and electrical tape.


To etch, put the positive clamp on the metal and the negative on the pad. Soak the pad in the salt water and pat off the excess on a paper towel. Then blot the area to be etched evenly for 5 seconds and allow to cool for 5 seconds, until you reach the desired etch depth. Replace the pad and gently blot the etch with a clean paper towel to clean it, as needed. Be careful not to disturb the resist when blotting it clean.


Before removing the stencil/resist, gently clean the etched area and repeat the above procedure with the AC/AC power supply.


This is the resulting etch, after cleaning up the surface with a Scotchbrite pad. I etched extra deep on this piece.


If you don't have, or can't find, an AC/AC supply then you can darken the etch with cold bluing, vinegar, or other false patinas, and then carefully remove the excess from the surface by flat sanding it.


If you want a short lesson in reusing found materials/springs, then look carefully at the pictures where the power supplies are attached to the chisel. I made this chisel at my local blacksmith group's class. Everyone was praising it, so I decided to take it a step further and get some smart ass points. I put it to my grinder with a 400grit belt and polished it up. If I hadn't done that, I never would have seen the long, large crack running from about the middle of the piece to about a half an inch from the tip. I am certain the crack is a stress fracture due to it being from an old truck coil spring.
 
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