Making a broad axe haft

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Square_peg

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I started making a new haft for my broad axe yesterday. This is the first full size axe handle I've done so I would appreciate any tips and pointers from you guys who are making your own. Maybe others can learn from my errors.

I started with a hunk of oak that was storm-fall on a friends property in Thurston County. It's Garry Oak, native to Washington State. This piece is green. I peeled it with a draw knife.

A broad axe requires an offset handle so that you don't 'bark your knuckles'. Since you want the grain to run continuously through your handle it requires a bent hunk of wood to make it.

Peeling_oak.jpg
 
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I split it in half with a chainsaw. The nice thing about this is that each half has the same shape. If this one doesn't turn out right or if it fails in the future I still have the other half to make a new one with.

Split_oak.jpg
 
I laid out the pattern for my handle. The dark heart wood of the piece already resembled an axe handle. Most of that heart wood will be carved away in the final product.

Layout.jpg
 
This end grain photo shows how the grain will look in this handle. Ideally I should have started with an 8" or 10" round. This round was only about 5-1/2".

End_grain.jpg
 
After a couple hours I had something that was beginning to resemble an axe handle. This handle blank is within about an hour of completion.

Haft_blank1.jpg
 
Here's the flipside.

The other half of this piece is in the garage drying. I painted the ends to help stop them from splitting while it dries. If I don't like how this one turns out I'll just do it over.

Again, I'd appreciate any advice or criticism from you guys who are more experienced at this.

Haft_blank2.jpg
 
That's really awesome. I don't have any advice, but in the photos it looks like the offset is maybe a little extreme????? It looks like you still have a fair amount of stock to work with, maybe you can just err to the less offset side, if you will.

Anyway, nice work! You're a "doer" which is certainly positive and uncommon these days. :thumbup::thumbup:
 
M3mphis said:
.....but in the photos it looks like the offset is maybe a little extreme????? It looks like you still have a fair amount of stock to work with, maybe you can just err to the less offset side, if you will.
Click to expand...

Thanks. We're on the same page there. I am fudging it toward a little less offset. The change from image 6 to image 7 shows some of that offset shaved out.

The existing handle on my axe is straight and it's a little scary to swing it with force with your hands so close the work. With 8 pounds of steel and some momentum it could go beyond just barking a knuckle.

What tools are you guys using to shape your hafts? Are you using raw stock from trees or lumber from the store?
 
Great post Pegs, thanks for the detailed step by step with tool links. Is Gary Oak a type of live Oak, or is it one of the species that loses it's leaves in the winter?
 
I use rasps, spoke shaves, draw knives etc to shape usually green wood for my handles. I did a post on it a while back both here and over at Bushcraftusa called "How I make axe handles" or something. A search should yield results, it wasn't very long ago. This is a different animal though, and it looks great so far.

Remember, if the curve is too much you can steam bend it, or just bend since its green. Most of the old broad axe handles were steam bent I think.
 
I found your how-to at the bushcraft site. It's very well done.
bow.gif

I too find myself using the block plane a lot and the spoke shaves just on the corners of the handle. I have a combination flat/concave spoke shave - two blades on one tool. A sharp draw knife has a tough time cutting this oak. The wood is just too hard, even green. I think I'm using the Sureform where you probably used the drawknife.
 
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A couple things I'll add. If this was dry wood then I would likely be doing much of the final work with power sanders (angle grinders with sanding discs). With this stuff as green as it is now a sanding disc would just plug up. I also tried working with a farrier's rasp but found the Surform worked quicker and easier, though in truth my farrier's rasp isn't brand new. I think green wood is much easier to work than dry wood. I'm thinking about getting this one close, then letting it dry before I finish it.
 
That looks really good Peg. Must be quite rewarding. It certainly doesn't look like you need any advice.

regards...Frank
 
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Great work you have done there. We also started with something like this. Til my friend started being a professional carpenter with all the tools.

Oak makes pretty hafts, no doubt. Though I prefer ashwood for any hafts.

You make there a great job, no joking! Looks very nice. I like it and know how much work it needs to get an actually good haft :) No critics from my side.

I have to give you an advice: Use wooden wedges instead of the iron ones. Get on the top of the haft a crosscut and add there the wedges. Imo this works much better than any iron ones. May hafts are of ashwood, so the wedges are also made of ash.

Hope I could help you a little bit!

Kind regards
Andi
 
Great thread. Youre doing beautiful work there Peg.

I wish I had access to some green oak logs out here in the Frozen Northland.

The ability to work outside without losing any fingers or toes would be pretty nice too. Im happy when the temp gets to zero (chuckle).. makes it feel balmy
 
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