- Joined
- May 8, 2014
- Messages
- 45
Would anyone care to define what the profile of the blade looks like ... i.e. angle of grinde? Will a 5/32 blade do good?
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Typical 'bushcraft' looks like a drop point or semi-spear, like these ...
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Scandi or Sabre or Full Flat are popular grinds, each has its pros-n-cons and fans.
5/32" will work but 3/16" would probably be better if you intend it to do a lot of batoning.
Typical 'bushcraft' looks like a drop point or semi-spear, like these ...
![]()
![]()
Scandi or Sabre or Full Flat are popular grinds, each has its pros-n-cons and fans.
5/32" will work but 3/16" would probably be better if you intend it to do a lot of batoning.
These aren't bushcraft knives. They'll work but they're really not suited for a lot of carving. Maybe if you thin the edge out...a lot. IME all of the survival type knives like the ones above have been absolute crud when doing any kind of carving. You can start a fire and build a "shelter" with these but they're typically too thick in the edge, have so so handles and are just plain cumbersome for bushcraft. If you're looking for a true bushcraft knife opt for something thin bladed, thin stocked, about 3-5 inches in blade length and with a comfy hand filling handle. I've tried esee, becker, swamp rat, scrapyard, kabar, survive, and a few others of the most recommended brands. And I mean a few of the top models from each brand. I've also tried several customs. I always come back to a mora.
Why all the emphasis on thick blades? Look at knives traditionally carried in the woods/wilderness by guys that actually depended on their knives to survive, i.e. "mountain men," "long hunters," etc. Lots of French style chef knife looking knives in fairly thin steel.
Lots of people want a knife to be an axe. When I go backpacking, I carry a small hatchet for chopping and use my knife for knife stuff. It's surprising what an 1/8" thick knife will do.
Well said. I never understood the thick blade concept. I'll take an 1/8" all day long.