Making a knife! Suggestions would be appreciated.

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Jul 28, 2003
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I wanted to make my own knife at some point. It would have a blade length of 3.75" or so. As far as overall shape, I really like the looks of the Benchmade Nimravus. It's probably going to be thin like the Nimravus meaning width of the blade and handle, not thickness).

What kind of grinds would you guys suggest? I was thinking about a flat grind, but would hollow be better durability-wise?

I like 01 for its ruggedness and how nicely it takes an edge, but it's on the high maintenance side, and I was considering something more stainless for an EDC. This is going to be milled on a CNC at my dad's work with carbide end mills. I don't see the initial cutting or shaping as being too problematic because we're using a CNC and not a bandsaw. So basically, I'm looking at something that's pretty stainless but with good edge retention. I know some people don't like it, but I've been pretty lucky with 440c being durable, having pretty good retention, and being stainless. Any other suggestions?

Then there comes the issue of tempering! I'd love to do it myself, but all I have is a blow torch and I'm not sure, outside of 01, what metals are torch-temper friendly :D So i might have to hand the knife over for the tempering unfortunately. Is there somewhere I can send the knife to have this done, or could I treat 440c with a torch?
 
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Unfortunately all the stainless steels aren't really HTable with a torch. There are places you can send a blade out for HT, someone else can list those since I do carbon steels myself and don't use stainless. 440C isn't a bad stainless, ATS34 is a popular one, CPM S30V is probably top of the heap for the stainless steels. If you decide you'd rather HT your own and can deal with the maintenence, O1 would be a good choice as would a 10xx steel(probably 1070-1095), 5160 wouldn't be bad either if you're more interested in a tough blade then one with really good edge holding.

For the grinds, that's really a big can of worms, everyone has their preferences. I'll give my opinions, but don't take them as the one true answer. Convex edge should actually be the most durable, flat next, hollow last, but when it comes to sharpness potential you want to reverse that list. If you want your blade to flex at all go flat, the geometry is most suited for it, if you want a stiff blade then do either of ther others.

I think I covered everything, hope this helps.
 
Why not D2? Get a piece from toolanddie.com
Its ALMOST stainless :) You can send it off to HT. Be sure to drill your handle holes first :)
Hows the 0-1 knife holding up?
 
She's holding up great, Brian! That knife is 01, but it's more of a special-use knife than my EDC so it works out fine. It's getting a nice patina, and I'm keeping it oiled to prevent pitting and "real" rust from forming. For the one I wanted to make, I was kind of thinking of making a smaller version of the 01 knife you made me so I could EDC it (in Massachusetts :D ) and not have to worry too much if I have to be out in rain or snow with it.

How stainless is D2 exactly? I always see D2 knives with powder coats, so I'm taking that as a sign! :D
 
they call D2 "Almost" Stainless......I'd go with 154 CM instead of 440c. if your wanting nearly maintenance free :) ATS34 is tough too!

Need any help with the knife give me a call!
 
Not advertising per say, but Texas Knifemakers Supply does a great job of heat treating for a reasonable price, they also offer cryogenics if you want. I have them do large Bowies for me when they are too large for my Evenheat oven.

http://www.texasknife.com/
 
NeedleRemorse, the stainlessness of D2 is also an open debate.
A steel is supposed to qualify as stainless if it has 12% chrome, others say 13%. Some manufacturers claim their D2 has 13% chrome, others say theirs contains 12%. As clear as mud.

I make PVC extrusion tools and PVC is very corrosive. One of the steels we use is D2 and it holds up pretty well, with proper care. Like other stainless tool steels it will rust if you leave it lying in the water for a day.

I agree about having the stainless steels professionally hardened, they are tricky steels that require a sophisticated heat treatment.

Good luck.

Mike
 
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