Making a Scramasax?

J

jim preston

Joined
Jul 22, 2007
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Okay, tommorwo is the last day of 9th grade, and I don't feel like sleeping.
So, while browsing through here, I saw a lot of Nessmuks. I like the design, and IIRC, you can make a pretty decent Nessmuk by cutting down a Old Hickory.
Now, Old Hickories are great knives, but they are rather thin- thin enough that I would like a thicker blade for outdoor use.
So I think about "What to mod?" I'd want it to be cheap, in case I screw up, carbon steel, so I can sharpen and patina it.

Then I'm browsing Eknifeworks and I see the Tramontina 12'' Machete
http://eknifeworks.com/webapp/eCommerce/product.jsp?Mode=Brand&Brand=112&A=&SKU=TR260412

And I figure- Hey that is probably thicker than an Old Hickory, and meets my other criteria. There was only one problem: the blade shape plus my minimal tools and experince would not allow me to make a Nessmuk blade shape.
So, I says, I like wharncliffes. Why not make a giant wharncliffe? It'd be fairly similar to a Scramasax, those Viking knives of old. I'm thinking around a 5.5" blade, just cut off with a hacksaw. How thick is the Tramontina steel (its 1075, isn't it), and how long would it take to saw through it? How wide is it? Is the handle made in such a way that a lanyard hole could be drilled? How hard would it be to make a sheath for it, or how much would it cost to have a custom one made?
Also, with limited sharpening skills and a Norton India stone, would it be feasible to put a Scandinavian style single-bevel edge on this knife? How steep of a grind is it, and how sharp and sliceable can you get the stock edge?

Talk me in or out of this summer project.
Thanks
-Pres
 
as for talking you in or out of it, i vote do it!!!

its alot of fun to mod things. i modded my old machete similarly to your idea, but i didn't make the point as long so its almost squarish...but its the same idea.

without knowledge of tramontina machetes specifically, i would say you can probably cut it with a hacksaw. its going to take a while, but with a good sharp blade you can do it, just go slow and steady.

if its possible, drill a line of holes where you want your cut to be, and then cut between the holes. much easier and straighter than just sawing.

as for sharpening, i reccomend a file for getting the initial edge there, and then you can polish it up with your stone. i also recomend getting some sandpaper and a mousepad to polish the edge to a finer grit, though this will convex the edge instead of giving you a scandi bevel.

you will end up with a nice little hunk of steel to do with as you wish...i might recomend turning it into a small companion knife...

by the way, if you have any power grinders like a bench grinder or a belt sander, angle grinder, etc, it will make cleaning up and shaping the knife alot easier than doing it with a file.

by the way, congrats on getting through your first year in highschool! it just gets better...or at least it did for me. i guess i shouldn't speak too soon though, i still have a year left after this one...
 
I guess that any project is going to be a huge learning experience. I suggest you jumping into the knifemakers area and read a lot... but when I say a lot, I mean it. Check the newby's sticky thread and read all that seems useful for you (and some more). Then using your google-fu try to find everything you can about draw filing, scandis and alike. There is so much to be said that I can't even start.

I suggest you get some tools (borrow them or buy them, files and sandpaper is cheap) and then try to do something like Greenpete shows in his knifemaking tutorials. He crafts a scandi grind knife out of and old file with minimal tools. I think it is a good way to start. Then you can think about making that big nesmuks of yours.

Mikel
 
I hate to crap in your Cheerios but I think that the Tram. is going to be just about the same thickness as the Old Hickory.

If you still want to try it, I would highly suggest investing in a Dremel type tool. The cut off wheels will make your life much easier when cutting out a blade and sanding drums are your best friend when shaping handles and finishing the spine and edges of the blade.

Have fun.
 
Yesterday was my last day of 9th grade too. I say go you and buy some 1095 steel stock and make a nessmuk, I did and it turned out pretty nice.
 
I would say just go ahead and do it...I have made knives in the past and as long as aren't trying to make an art piece, it's pretty easy. They aren't complicated tools!

But I would say it might be worthwhile to get your hands on a grinder of some sort.

If it were me, I would take the steel, build a fire out of charcoal briquettes, and heat it up red hot. Use half the bag of briquettes and so it gets red hot and cools really slowly in the pile of ashes, over several hours. The steel will be soft as butter. If you don't have a grinder, no problem. You will easily be able to hacksaw and file it into shape.

Then, when the knife is shaped how you want it, use the other half of the briquettes and get it red hot again. Grab it with pliers and dip it tip first into used motor oil. Clean it off and put it in the oven for an hour or so at around 250-300, take it out, let it cool, and make a handle.

This will not get you a Busse. But I bet your knife will work pretty well!
 
Darn- I didn't even think about using my Dremel! I have a large set of various things, think there are several grinder attachments in it.
[Puts stupid hat on]
As for making and heat treating my own knives: A- I don't have a charcoal grill, or even a heavy metal folding table yet and B. I 'd rather gain profinciancy with modding things before I try and make my own.
Anybody have any specs on the thickness of the Tramontina? I imagined it would be pretty thick, since it is a machete.
 
The 12" Tramontina is about .075" thick. The Bolo is a bit thicker. AFAIK, the steel is 1070 hardened to Rc 48-52. A Dremel with a cutoff wheel will suffice.
 
Cool Idea for a Seax.
Please go slow and put safety first. This from a person that has cut and dinged everything at least once. Get a few pairs of new clear safety glasses, a hat with a brim, tough shirt and good fitting gloves, I guarantee you a hot piece of something will find skin : )
When I have used my dremel cut off wheels on Old Hickory blades, I double the wheels, I take the scales off first and actually screw the blade to my bench. Cutting a bit then cooling the blade with water to help keep the temper. When I cut up a machete I use a well anchored vise and a sawzall with a metal cutting blade.
There are of course so many good folks here better at this than me. Good luck and have a good time.

Mark
 
Safety is always first, especially that I'm now on blood thinners.
I have done woodworking before, and know the power of Dremel and saw.
Few more questions-
Can a hole be drilled for a lanyard?
Can anybody recommend me a good place, either online or in-store, to get either leather or heavy-duty nylon for sheaths, along with materials for sewing them?
Can anybody reccomend something to read about sheath making?
 
You can make a sheath from PVC tubing...There was a post recently, but now I can't find it. Basically you heat it up in your oven for about 20 minutes at 250-275F. Then you squash it between two boards to make it flat enough to accept your blade. Looked pretty easy.
 
You can make a sheath from PVC tubing...There was a post recently, but now I can't find it. Basically you heat it up in your oven for about 20 minutes at 250-275F. Then you squash it between two boards to make it flat enough to accept your blade. Looked pretty easy.
Click to expand...
Would that release some sort of toxic fume?
 
You might want to consider making the scabbard out of wood. This can be easily done with cheap 1/4" plywood: two pieces for front and back, and little strips glued and pinned for a welt. Fasten a loop to the top for carrying (and to reinforce the opening) and Bob's your uncle. If you want to go this route but don't have access to a bandsaw or jigsaw (or scrap 1/4" ply), drop me an email or PM and I'll fix you up out of the scrap pile. (You might have to "settle" for solid quartersawn or figured white oak, I've got a lot of 1/4" oak on hand.)

(What is it about the summer after 9th grade? That summer I learned how to make tomahawks, throwing knives, and built my first long rifle. The thought of being the adult who is encouraging the kids and providing materials/advice is rather pleasant!)
 
I think it was the summer I had my first beer, but that's another story.:D
If I were you I would get an angle grinder, you can get them pretty cheap and the cutting discs will cut through that steel easily, and theres lots of other things you can do with it.
 
(What is it about the summer after 9th grade? That summer I learned how to make tomahawks, throwing knives, and built my first long rifle. The thought of being the adult who is encouraging the kids and providing materials/advice is rather pleasant!)
Click to expand...
Don't know. Summer before 9th grade I went canoeing, that might have something to do with it. My knife interest has gained and gained over freshman year, as has my collection and my debt.
I have a jigsaw and scrollsaw and plenty of scrap. I assume it would also be feasible to cover the sheat with leather of some sort.
 
jim preston said:
Don't know. Summer before 9th grade I went canoeing, that might have something to do with it. My knife interest has gained and gained over freshman year, as has my collection and my debt.
I have a jigsaw and scrollsaw and plenty of scrap. I assume it would also be feasible to cover the sheat with leather of some sort.
Click to expand...
Sure. Thin upholstery leather is one option: it is about the right thickness (and you can sometimes get take-offs from an upholstery shop). The last one I made like this I covered with denim from an old pair of jeans. Just glue it on with any decent carpenters' glue or epoxy, with the seam on the backside.
 
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