Making a splitting maul

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Apr 7, 2006
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I'm going to make my dad a 12 lbs. splitting maul (wedge shaped) to replace one that went missing. I might be able to get a chunk of D2 to machine it out of, would this be a good steel for the high impact of splitting wood? I would like to harden it myself, what steel would be the best?
 
high impact means high toughness, I'd personally be looking at 5160 with only the cutting edge hardened and tempered to mid to high 50's, 57/58, with the body behind that left softer.
 
We often used the poll on the maul to drive wedges, and also used a sledge hammer to pound on the maul (like a wedge). Wouldn't heavy steel-on-steel impacts like this be a bit much for D2? Not to mention all those times a piece of firewood split easier than expected, and the bit smacked straight into a rock (or even the concrete floor :o ) D2 is known for wear resistance, but far less toughness than lots of other steels. I'd think there would be better options on all accounts, but if you want to spend the time, let us know how it goes.

Personally, I'd just pick one up at an auction or yard sale for less than 10 bucks & be done with it. :)
 
5160 would be fine. I think 4140 might be even better. You don't need high carbon, but you do need high toughness. With .40% carbon 4140 will get the edge into the HRC 50 range, and will be very tough.The thicker body will be in the low to mid HRC40 area. HT is easy. It quenches at 1555-1570F with an oil quench. Temper at 500-550. Machines in the annealed state easily, and can be forged if desired. All in all a good choice for a maul head. I've got the charts if you want more info.
Stacy
 
I'm with Stacy on the 4140 (or maybe 4340). It's likely to be cheaper to get your hands on than D2 as well.

-d
 
Just remember, a wedge should NOT be that hard, dont treat it like a knife =P Your wedge should be softer than the hammer you're hitting it with, and sledge hammers are usualy pretty darned soft.
 
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