Making and electro etcher

U

unky_gumbi

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Aug 28, 2009
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I have been hunting down all the parts I need to make the Chris Crawford etcher, only thing is that Radio shack is no more up here and the parts list doesn't give specs on the parts. I have found a place that I can get almost everything I need but I need the specs on the Heavy-Duty Chassis-Mount Transformer w/leads Cat.# 273-1512 and the Full Wave Bridge Rectifier Cat# 276-1181. Anyone know off hand what the specs on these are.

Thanks
George
 
I like this tutorial better.

It is setup with proper schematics instead of 1 to 2 to 3...

It uses 12volts, as the 24 volts tends to run hot and burn stencils.

http://www.knives.mlogiudice.com/knifeshop/etcher/electro-etcher_circuit.pdf

http://www.knives.mlogiudice.com/knifeshop/etcher/index.shtml

His specs are the same as the Chris Crawford, but instead of buying a 24 volt transformer with a 112 volt centre tap, you could just buy a 12 volt transformer. He gives links to the RS website with specs on each part.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102703
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062583


Canadian Supplier
http://www.digikey.ca/
 
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Those schematics aren't proper.

You run the positive to the workpiece, and the etcher pad is the negative.

At least that's how it works in my shop...
 
Brian Fellhoelter Knives said:
Those schematics aren't proper.

You run the positive to the workpiece, and the etcher pad is the negative.

At least that's how it works in my shop...
Click to expand...

"the positive to the workpiece, and the etcher pad is the negative."
I agree

In normal use, Red=+ and black =-

The commercial units like Marking Methods reverse that color code.
and they call the plate the "grounding plate" but it is +

this confused the hell out of me until I got that right.
 
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Well, on closer inspection, I see he has red as negative, and black as positive.

That's retarded.

Make the red positive, and black negative as is the US standard.
 
Not yet other things keep coming up. I am trying to get all my other knife projects done before my elbow surgery on the 20th. I figure I can build it and mark everything while recovering from that.
 
Hey man, I just went out and bought all the stuff tonight, and whipped this thing together in about an hour, cost was between $60-65, I'll scan and email you the receipts if you want. If you're up for it, you can send me the money for the parts, and the shipping cost, and I'll go get it all and buzz it together real fast. And I'll try to get it out the same day. I don't trust those twist connectors, I solder and tape all my connections.

Shoot me an email to brent.krous@live.com if it's something you want to do, or post here...doesn't matter.
 
i have a bunch of transformers and power supplies laying around. would an 18 volt power supply from an hp printer work? if it would, pay the shipping and its yours.
 
Emphasiski said:
Hey man, I just went out and bought all the stuff tonight, and whipped this thing together in about an hour, cost was between $60-65, I'll scan and email you the receipts if you want. If you're up for it, you can send me the money for the parts, and the shipping cost, and I'll go get it all and buzz it together real fast. And I'll try to get it out the same day. I don't trust those twist connectors, I solder and tape all my connections.

Shoot me an email to brent.krous@live.com if it's something you want to do, or post here...doesn't matter.
Click to expand...
Thats nice offer but by the time I paid shipping I could get the parts cheaper here:p

I am capable of building one myself, I was an electronic engineering technologies student way back when. I was rooting around the garage yesterday and found an old car battery charger and with a little tweaking I think I can use that till I make the proper one.
 
So I gave the battery charger a test on a piece of steel I had test hardened and it works like a charm with salt water, so now I just need to order my stencils. The charger is an older Century Model 87106C 12v10&2A/6v 10A with 12v 55A start mode. I will try etch something other then a line next time and post a picture of the results.
 
Can you get stencils for a relatively good price? You might be better off making your own or contacting your local car audio guys to see if they have some vinyl that you can use. Barring that, PnP blue or photo paper and laser printer/photo copier will work just as well. I went the photo paper route as stencils werent cost effective for me.
 
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