Making blades with S30V. Steps?

G

gasrc

Joined
Feb 25, 2008
Messages
5
My thought was to use approx 1/4" thick S30V with a 15-degree per side cutting edge (1/4" wide) with 8 degrees per side before the cutting angle. The plan is to have the blades machined, heat treated, electro polished, and sharped...but in what order? I know to machine first, then heat treat, but do I get the polishing done before or after the sharpening?

For what it is worth (in the event my thoughts on angles is bad), these blade will be arranged in a tight "V" and used to cut through sandy water-soaked taught rope in a single pull.
 
I'd think polishing should be done before sharpening, since by polishing you'd ruin the edge. Yes? No? I really don't know, just thinking out loud.
 
Welcome to Bladeforums!

Let’s see if we can find the right forum …
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from my limited newbie experience (two blades with S30V)
first cut out the shape and grind edges drill pin holes.
heat treat (Sent out)
Finish bevel edges
Hand sand to Satin finish then tape of blade to protect surface.
Finish handles
Make sheath
and very last put the edge on the blade.
Dont worry about a mirror polish the steel is not very good for mirro just a good Satin Finish will look great.

I am new and learning so Hope this helps (also just my thoughts and desire to help)

Larry
 
Cougar Allen said:
Welcome to Bladeforums!

Let’s see if we can find the right forum …
Click to expand...

Sadly, there is one of you in every forum. One that just can't wait to say, "In before the lock", "welcome to last year", or "wrong forum."

Allow me to give you advice on how to be a better forum member to new members. Try providing useful information for the subject at hand first and then say something to the effect of, "You may have better luck getting help in the ____ forum." Or PM the member.

Anyhue, thanks for moving this to the proper place.
 
Larry Hensley said:
from my limited newbie experience (two blades with S30V)
first cut out the shape and grind edges drill pin holes.
heat treat (Sent out)
Finish bevel edges
Hand sand to Satin finish then tape of blade to protect surface.
Finish handles
Make sheath
and very last put the edge on the blade.
Dont worry about a mirror polish the steel is not very good for mirro just a good Satin Finish will look great.

I am new and learning so Hope this helps (also just my thoughts and desire to help)

Larry
Click to expand...

Thanks Larry. This will not be a true hand knife as much as it is an industrial tool. Everypart of it will be stainless. The rest of the tool will be 316. The polishing is not so much for the look as it is to improve corrosion resistance.
 
gasrc said:
Sadly, there is one of you in every forum. One that just can't wait to say, "In before the lock", "welcome to last year", or "wrong forum."

Allow me to give you advice on how to be a better forum member to new members. Try providing useful information for the subject at hand first and then say something to the effect of, "You may have better luck getting help in the ____ forum." Or PM the member.

Anyhue, thanks for moving this to the proper place.
Click to expand...

Yeah Cougar. What's wrong with you? Moving things to the appropriate forum. You're such a buttinsky. :p:D
 
Cougar has moved your post to the right forum if you want advice. It will work better if you can leave that chip behind.

I have had quite a bit of experience with S30V and consider it a great steel for someone that knows what they are doing. If you are just going to send it out to have all the steps done, you can probably buy one much cheaper.

At any rate, profile first, then drill pin/bolt holes. Grind bevels and polish to at least intermediate grits (S30V is not easy to polish after heat treat). I would go with convex final bevels for greater edge retention.

I think 1/4 inch is way too thick unless you are building a monster Bowie. Crucible supplies the S30V thick, because it is not surface ground.

With 1/4" stock you will need to remove a lot of material to get a good cutting blade. No blade works well if the blade thickens up too fast behind the edge.

I would suggest you look into CPM 3V, as it is much tougher and I woud not go any thicker than 3/16" stock.
 
I second thinner stock, especially for cutting rope etc. 1/8" is better for that.
 
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