Making G10 scales to fit skeleton tangs

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KC8QVO

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Apr 7, 2011
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I am curious about working with some G10. I am looking at some knives that have skeleton tangs that have optional scales, but I figured making them might yield the results I am looking for (a very rough, grippy feel)

I have noticed that the commercially available scales look like they have a CNC machined "track" that goes in to the skeleton portion of the tang to lock the scales in place. This is a slick idea.

Has anyone found a way to home make scales that have this same form fit to a skeleton tang? I am not quite sure how I could make that kind of "cut".

Tracing the tang would be pretty easy, whether that is with paper or plastic, and transferring that outline to the G10. Cutting it out would be the trick - and having it fit right against the tang.

Just sitting here thinking about it one idea that I have is to make a thin "chip" that fits the inside of the tang, then glue it to the scale instead. This may be easier because the chip can be sanded/ground to fit precisely with as much tension or clearance desired before bonded to the scales.

Any thoughts?
 
I would guess that the available G10 handles you see are milled. I've never worked with G10 (although I have a couple pieces I haven't messed with yet), but I'm guessing that setting up a jig and routering them wouldn't work due to heat issues.
 
I think that would be very difficult to do by hand. The only method I can think of is doing it slowly with a file.
 
If the holes aren't too small, drill tiny holes in the G10 where the holes would be, then open up the holes with a small, round needle file.
 
If you go to this link to the kniveshipfree.com site showing the Bark River Necker optional scales you will see what I am talking about on the second picture down:
http://www.knivesshipfree.com/product_info.php?cPath=465_712_714&products_id=8481

The top scale shows the track I am talking about, then inside of it is a pocket for storing tinder or something else small (no use for me, just the track to lock the scales in place). It is no doubt cut on a mill, CNC to get that contour for sure. There are no flat lines there so cutting without a CNC machine would be pretty hard.

TheOTBalisong - I am not quite following you on filing out the holes. The hole placement doesn't matter, as long as they line up on both sides. My concern is the track and getting that to fit right (pop in to place). Getting the holes to line up will be very easy.
 
'The easiest way is probably to take a couple of thin pieces of G10, and get them to fit the inside of the skeleton. Once they fit, epoxy them to thicker pieces (the scales), and then fit them up like you would normal scales. I don't know how else you would do that without a mill.
 
Shouldn't be too hard to accomplish that goal by hand.

Don't look for it to register 100% like the NC milled scales will, you don't need it.

I little at this end, and a little at the other end will key it together fine.

It would help to have a mill available for bulk stock removal, but the fit could be done with files.

Or grease up the inside with lubricant and pack it with JB-Weld to make a plug.

Pass your bolts through the plug and scales to make it solid.

You don't even need to lube it if you don't care about the hollow handle.
 
Will JB Weld hold on the G10 OK? Are there any other kinds of adhesives that might work?
 
Brian (Fellhoelter) is right. It does not have to fit that perfectly, but if that is a goal in itself here is what I would suggest:
Lube the inside of the tang, plase it on a piece of paper on a flat surface and pour some Marine epoxy or similar into the cavity. Set aside to cure. When fully cured, gently knock it out of the cavity. You now have a perfect casting of the inside of the cavity. Clean it up and superglue it to a piece of your chosen handle material. Then superglue or even better, clamp the whole piece to a flat piece of mild steel, iron etc, with the casting facing upwards. This step is to add stability for the routing procedure. A milling machine is best but a good drill press will suffice. Place a router that has the same diameter on the shank as on the cutting portion in the drill press chuck. The idea is to have the shank follow the outline of the casting and thereby creating a perfect copy of it on the handle material, without cutting deeper than the thickness of the tang. It is possible that the cutting portion of the router may need to be shortened by grinding, for the shank to ride on the outline of the casting.
This is basically the same method Ron Lake uses for his interframe folders (and me too) but obviosly it is a bit of an overkill for this application.

Hope it was helpfull.

Brian
 
KC8QVO said:
If you go to this link to the kniveshipfree.com site showing the Bark River Necker optional scales you will see what I am talking about on the second picture down:
http://www.knivesshipfree.com/product_info.php?cPath=465_712_714&products_id=8481

The top scale shows the track I am talking about, then inside of it is a pocket for storing tinder or something else small (no use for me, just the track to lock the scales in place). It is no doubt cut on a mill, CNC to get that contour for sure. There are no flat lines there so cutting without a CNC machine would be pretty hard.

TheOTBalisong - I am not quite following you on filing out the holes. The hole placement doesn't matter, as long as they line up on both sides. My concern is the track and getting that to fit right (pop in to place). Getting the holes to line up will be very easy.
Click to expand...

Maybe I'm just thinking of something else. Sorry.
 
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