Making Micarta/ G-10 scales

Huntsman Knife Co. LLC.

Huntsman Knife Co. LLC.

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hey guys,

I've been looking at making some some micarta or G-10 scales for a manix 2. I have not experince with micarta but have just about every power tool imaginable.

So, i need some advice, first off how hard/ easy is G-10 to drill and shape and what are the best methods and tools for doing so?

Im going to used either 3/16ths or 1/8th thick slabs that are about 6 inches long and 2inches thick, layered with black and blue/ green coloring.

I am a complete beginner but want to have some fun and learn as i go. all advice is greatly appreciated!

thanks!
 
Bondo fiberglass resin, material and a good means of pressing these together. One note, have all material ready to go, and only mix half the hardener that it calls for. This will give you the extra time you neet to get everything in place.

Get some wax paper. Lay out a layer of your material, butter with the resin, and repeat. When you are done, clamp between two poards and leave it for 10-15 hours. I would still wait a full day before I started using it.

I have a link I can send you if needed.

Paul
 
Thank you! I found some really nice looking pre-made micarta on ebay so i think will just be shaping it to fit the manix 2! but i may try to make my own sometime.
 
Micarta and g10 both work easily by hand,cut on a metal cutting band saw,drills easy and shapes well.
Wear a respirator the dust is bad for you.
Stan
 
OK, You have a lot of tools and are an eager beginner. That is a good start. It is good that you are asking questions first, because there are extra concerns with these materials.

Micarta is a cloth/paper and phenolic resin material. It gives off formaldehyde gas as it is worked. Not a lot, but it can make your eyes burn and bother your lungs. G-10 is a glass fiber and epoxy resin material. Both have nasty dust. You MUST wear a good respirator to work with these materials. After the grinding and sanding are done, vacuum up all dust around the equipment ( a dust collector should be used while grinding,too.)

The materials work fairly easily, but G-10 is a lot harder to cut up and grind. Work with fresh belts and slower speeds. hand filing and sanding are the best way to go if you are not equipped for the grinding dust. The cleanup still needs to be done, but it won't be thrown all over the place. Regardless of how the rough shaping is done, hand sanding is how these materials should be finished.
 
Yeah i figured all of the dust stuff couldnt be good for me. I will for sure wear a mask i will probably just do it outside to avoid all of the dust getting in my garage.

I think i am going to do a rough cut with a wet saw to get it close to the size it needs to be for the handles. then im going to to probably going to use a sander and get it closer to the final form. then hand sand the edges to finish. probably hand sand to slightly round off the surface to the colors show.Then drill for the lock and screw holes.
 
bladsmth said:
Not a mask....a respirator...the difference is huge.
Click to expand...

Are you refering to one of these as a bare minimum or a full-facemask, dedicated air supply, respirator?

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?mwsId=66666UuZjcFSLXTtNXTXmVs6EV76EbHSHVs6EVs6E666666--

Kalel - You're going to want a respirator that seals against your skin to keep the particles out. A simple dust mask doesn't seal well and you'll eventually breath it in. It might actualy be wise to use a full facemask since some of the laminate material is made from glass fibers (fiberglass, carbon fiber, kevlar, etc). Pretty sure if any of these airborne glass particles collect on your corneas your not going to be happy camper.
 
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Yes, that is the type I am referring to. You need a good filter cartridge respirator/mask. Many folks call a mask one of those painting filter things, A respirator filters the air to a much higher degree, and seals all other air out. Most will remove 99% of all particles 1 micron and larger. Cartridges are available for organic vapors and formaldehyde,too. A full face unit is best, but a good half face unit is fine if you wear safety glasses. Eye protection is a must in the grinding shop. If you aren't sensitive to the formaldehyde vapors, a positive pressure hood/hat works well. The Trend Air Shield or the Air Cap II are both great units for the shop. Dedicated air supply hoods are super, but most shops aren't set up for them.
 
Just had a crazy idea for a shop respirator system. (And this in half-jest...so don't sue me if you actually do it).

Take a regular wet/dry shopvac. Route the suction side to the business-side of your grinder. (This will remove some of the particles at the source). Route the exhaust-side of the shopvac thru a HEPA filter, then a vapor filter, and then to a postive pressure hood. Two birds, one stone eh? SNAP! I should market that!!

....errm....maybe not.
 
I have a full sealing filtering mask used for spray painting. And I will definately be wearing ski goggles or my welding goggles to keep the dust out of my eyes.

Thanks for all of the advice guys! There is so much knowledge on this forum.
 
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