Making the decision to carry a hard to maintain knife.

If you eat with your knife then a light coat of mineral oil is best.
Blued steel rusts pretty easily on me here since I use an evaporative cooler, but my knives with patina really don't.
They don't sit unused too terribly long, but I do sometimes give them a light coat of mineral oil.

My situation isn't as severe, but this is my experience with carbon steel and rust.
 
In my case, I had a patina, but the rust pitted the blades. If discoloration was the only risk, it's an easy fix, but pitting is another story.
 
Somewhere in here, I just read a 2014 test result of a fellow who tested 46 gun lubes. In testing these lubes in various situations and categories, he determined that Frog Lube was the best in rust-prevention...and also non-toxic. I was convinced...
 
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bear71 said:
So, I live in the Philippines which can tend to be a little humid, to say the least. I have collected custom/handmade fixed blades from a few makers over the years in O1 and A2 that I have just about managed to keep on top of regarding prevention of major rust and pitting (patina not an issue). Of course I clean and oil then obsessively but the humidity here is all pervasive.
Last year when working in the US I picked up a beautiful Northwoods Fremont Jack in elephant ivory (price was considerably higher than initial release but lower than some models in micarta are now advertised on secondary market). Love the knife want to carry it to age the ivory but am very aware that the 1095 will be quite susceptible to the elements and the recesses of a folder can harbor moisture. Any opinions on whether it's worth the risk or better to admire it then carry a fixed blade until I'm in the drier US or UK. Cheers.
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I lived in the PI for 2.5 years and understand your problem. If it were my ivory knife I would clean it and then apply a coating of Break Free CLP on all the steel parts. Then I would seal it in a freezer style heavy duty ZipLock bag. Then, because I lived on the Pacific Ocean side of the world, I would buy a yellow Spyderco Pacific Salt (or Atlantic) model which is totally rust proof. It is a great knife for these climates. When I lived in S. Florida that is what I carried EDC.

Hope this helps.


My favorite accent in a review of the Spyderco Pacific Salt

 
There are a lot of great steels these days that are highly rust resistant with minimal attention: S30V/S35Vn, CTS-XHP, CPM-154, D2, H1.
 
Sonnydaze said:
Somewhere in here, I just read a 2014 test result of a fellow who tested 46 gun lubes. In testing these lubes in various situations and categories, he determined that Frog Lube was the best in rust-prevention...and also non-toxic. I was convinced...
Click to expand...
yeah frog lube......his test might have shown that but ive tried it and it failed badly for corrosion protection. my testing was clean, rust and pit free carbon tools just sitting in a shed not in the elements and not sprayed with salt water and such. rust came very quickly. tried their directions on some of the tools, tried gobbing/heavy coating it on others. both ways failed badly. so not really a great product for that. take from that what ya want or ignore it.
 
I usually carry pocket knife in the pocket. Last summer was so hot and humid, i have had problems with a lot of steel: zdp 189, S30V..
My suggestion is to carry it in a belt sheat.
Clean the blade after each cutting session. Weekly a drop of camellia oil into the pivot.
 
Ive had more 1095 knives than anything else. A night soak in vinager usually does a good trick of forcing a patina. I carry uncoated 1095 in snow and rain with minamal rust
 
jbmonkey said:
yeah frog lube......his test might have shown that but ive tried it and it failed badly for corrosion protection. my testing was clean, rust and pit free carbon tools just sitting in a shed not in the elements and not sprayed with salt water and such. rust came very quickly. tried their directions on some of the tools, tried gobbing/heavy coating it on others. both ways failed badly. so not really a great product for that. take from that what ya want or ignore it.
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I have heard good things but never used Frog Lube or any other protector. I started using the military version of BreakFree CLP on M-16's, etc. a few decades ago in a small SE Asia country . It was government spec, the only product that met the spec. It still works great on all my firearms and knives and tools for C-leaning, L-bricating, and P-rotecting steel objects. It is synthetic and will not break down and harden like a petroleum oil might do. Break Free is relatively inexpensive (a little goes a long way), available at any gun shop or sporting goods department, and I buy it in gallon jugs, and it beats the heck out of WD-40 and light gun oil which many new gun owners try to use as something that lubes and protects their expensive firearms. Just my two cents after decades of use. I have no financial interest in the company. There is a museum grade wax, I forget the name, that is supposed to be awesome for long term storage. For knives and firearms I will put in storage I first clean them and give them a light coat of Break Free CLP. Them I put them in a plastic bag or baggie, seal it and store it. I mark the date and every few years repeat the process. I used Break Free CLP on skeet and trap shotguns costing thousands, and tens of thousands of dollars because it works. A replacement barrel could cost $3,000. I was not taking a chance with anything I didn't know would work. The cost of being wrong was too great.
 
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Carry it, you only live once :)

By carrying it the collector value goes out the window, so if it does get some pits it's not a big deal. I use Renwax or mineral oil and clean up my carbon steel every day of use and check themevery so often to make sure. Make sure it's wiped off before storage. One thing you can't stop very easy is pepper spots inside on the backspring. I use oil on a paper towel to get to the spring, but still get some oxidation, no rust though.
 
GatorFlash1 said:
I have heard good things but never used Frog Lube or any other protector. I started using the military version of BreakFree CLP on M-16's, etc. a few decades ago in a small SE Asia country . It was government spec, the only product that met the spec. It still works great on all my firearms and knives and tools for C-leaning, L-bricating, and P-rotecting steel objects. It is synthetic and will not break down and harden like a petroleum oil might do. Break Free is relatively inexpensive (a little goes a long way), available at any gun shop or sporting goods department, and I buy it in gallon jugs, and it beats the heck out of WD-40 and light gun oil which many new gun owners try to use as something that lubes and protects their expensive firearms. Just my two cents after decades of use. I have no financial interest in the company. There is a museum grade wax, I forget the name, that is supposed to be awesome for long term storage. For knives and firearms I will put in storage I first clean them and give them a light coat of Break Free CLP. Them I put them in a plastic bag or baggie, seal it and store it. I mark the date and every few years repeat the process. I used Break Free CLP on skeet and trap shotguns costing thousands, and tens of thousands of dollars because it works. A replacement barrel could cost $3,000. I was not taking a chance with anything I didn't know would work. The cost of being wrong was too great.
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clp yep used it. pretry much ive used them all...mostly on firearms. i do a lot of shooting. one of my other hobbies. that aside....

im not a big fan of gun clps or oils on knives myself. those who like 'em, great. i just found after years of playing with silicone products, oil products, etc.....regular car type wax did a far better job in the swamps and sulphur spring water, where i am and spend time in.
 
GatorFlash1 said:
I have heard good things but never used Frog Lube or any other protector. I started using the military version of BreakFree CLP on M-16's, etc. a few decades ago in a small SE Asia country . It was government spec, the only product that met the spec. It still works great on all my firearms and knives and tools for C-leaning, L-bricating, and P-rotecting steel objects. It is synthetic and will not break down and harden like a petroleum oil might do. Break Free is relatively inexpensive (a little goes a long way), available at any gun shop or sporting goods department, and I buy it in gallon jugs, and it beats the heck out of WD-40 and light gun oil which many new gun owners try to use as something that lubes and protects their expensive firearms. Just my two cents after decades of use. I have no financial interest in the company. There is a museum grade wax, I forget the name, that is supposed to be awesome for long term storage. For knives and firearms I will put in storage I first clean them and give them a light coat of Break Free CLP. Them I put them in a plastic bag or baggie, seal it and store it. I mark the date and every few years repeat the process. I used Break Free CLP on skeet and trap shotguns costing thousands, and tens of thousands of dollars because it works. A replacement barrel could cost $3,000. I was not taking a chance with anything I didn't know would work. The cost of being wrong was too great.
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I'm 100% with you.
Here's the military testing required of a CLP.
Breakfree is the only one ever mentioned on this forum that qualifies.
 
I would just wipe your carbon steel blades down with oil every couple of months or when you feel they need it. I have one elephant ivory Northwoods knife and even though I know it's a tough handle material, I am hesitant to carry it (mostly because I don't need to with all the other GEC knives I own). I think the ivory will age on its own over time even without carrying it unless you consider scratches and other marks part of the aging process.
 
Alberta Ed said:
There are a lot of great steels these days that are highly rust resistant with minimal attention: S30V/S35Vn, CTS-XHP, CPM-154, D2, H1.
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D2 is far from highly rust resistant. It's not stainless at all in fact. I used to get pitting just from water left on the blade after washing up from food. Minuscule amounts of residual salts from the food mixing with the water. It will also patina heavily just from dipping in coke for a few minutes, I used to do this to try and keep the pitting problem at bay. Queen Cutlery knife, not cheap junk which might have been mislabelled. This didn't begin to happen with any true stainless blade I've given the same usage such as 420HC, Case SS, 440C, Victorinox, M390, S35VN, etc.

salami.jpg
 
Again, thanks for all the responses and advice. I am planning to use and carry it sparingly, and as with all my carbon steel knives here in the tropics, douse it in mineral oil or beeswax/oil mixture when not in use. It's kind of a luxury use knife based on the rarity of the scales, but it was bought to be enjoyed and I'll manage it accordingly. Looking forward to posting some pics on appropriate forum soon, Cheers
 
GatorFlash1 said:
I lived in the PI for 2.5 years and understand your problem. If it were my ivory knife I would clean it and then apply a coating of Break Free CLP on all the steel parts. Then I would seal it in a freezer style heavy duty ZipLock bag. Then, because I lived on the Pacific Ocean side of the world, I would buy a yellow Spyderco Pacific Salt (or Atlantic) model which is totally rust proof. It is a great knife for these climates. When I lived in S. Florida that is what I carried EDC.

Hope this helps.


My favorite accent in a review of the Spyderco Pacific Salt

Click to expand...
Thanks for the advice, i have looked at the Spyderco Salt folders but can't get past the FRN handles. My only Spyderco is the Techno. I know I shouldn't be fussy but I am partial to fixed blades by certain makers and try to acquires CPM154 in their designs for edc. I just really wanted to carry this slip joint and was looking for nudges either way to help me decide. I may look into a rustproof fixed blade by Spyderco in the future. Cheers.
 
Blues Bender said:
Are you seriously suggesting that the OP should cerakote a slipjoint?o_O
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Out of all of the dumb stuff he has said, at least this is slightly practical. Cerakote does significantly increase corrosion resistance. How you get it on a slipjoint is anyone's guess, though, but it sure would make a unique knife.
 
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