Making the Ideal Fighting Hawk

Joined
Jun 5, 2008
Messages
5
(Sorry for the length, you can see I've put a bit of thinking into this!)

Hey, been lurking bladeforums for a little while, and just decided I'd like to get a hawk!

I looked around on the internet a bit, and decided I want a Fort Turner hawk, partly because I've read good things, but also because he does custom work as well.

I figure that if I'm going to ask for custom work, I might as well really try to make something ideal.

So I've come here with my thoughts on this design, and seek everyone's wisdom on my take on the absolute ideal fighter.

First, some ground rules:
1) Do keep in mind that I haven't handled a tomahawk with the intention of fighting with it yet, so my logic is from speculation rather than practice. If you see something here you know to be dumb, tell me, because I don't want to be dumb.

2) Let's assume, for now at least, this hawk will be used exclusively with one hand. In other words, FT standard-sized hawk handles are 18 inches, and that's what I'm getting. In other words, I'm mostly making the ideal hawk head! If you really, really, really think the perfect fighting hawk handle would come any different, explain convincingly.

3) There will be no attempts to adhere to any one style from a certain period or culture, furthermore, no advice on making it pretty in any way. I ask that any recommendations that are made only take into account maximizing strengths, broadening versatility, and/or minimizing weaknesses, from a combative perspective.

That about covers it, I think. Now, let's make the perfect fighter.

The foundation for the design will be the Roger's Ranger Hawk. In fact, the majority of the dimensions will be identical.

I think the spike is stout of enough to prove exceptionally durable, even when faced with the toughest task, but is long enough for a fairly deep bite. It's also wider than a typical v-hawk's spike, I think, for a wide wound channel.

The following, or bottom edge of the RR's blade is how I want it, as well: It's got enough angle downward to allow it really "grab on" for hooking, but not swept like a Norsemen's hawk so that the point might snag on clothing.

That said, I do want the upswept design of the Norsemen for the leading, or top edge. A few reasons:

1) We're not going to be as many hooking, body-manipulating type maneuvers with this edge, so snagging isn't a concern, really.

2) This will give us more length in the blade edge, which is rarely a bad thing. In addition, all this extra edge is going towards lending the hawk more reach.

3) It will also give us a heck of a point for jabbing.

So that's pretty much it. Imagine the RR Hawk with the top edge and point of a Norsemen, and you've got my perfect hawk. I'm actually saving a draft of an email to send to Dana that outlines this design, so once I have the blessing of a handful of folks here, I'm shooting it out to him.

If you have any thoughts regarding why you would or would not want this in your hand when a life's on the line, and/or what you change on it to make it more ideal, than, please, post 'em!
 
here is a hawk designed by someone who knows how to fight with weapons. notice that this hawk doesn't share many of the design features that you are mentioning such as the spike. spikes tend to get stuck in things which would not be very good in a fight:D since people don't duel with weapons anymore it probably doesn't matter anyway but i would want speed and reach over something heavy and hard to wield.

http://www.szaboinc.com/edged_detail.asp?offset=20&ID=37
 
When I replace 'hawk handles, I carve my own, and start with a handle length of about 25" and remove length in intervals of about 1/2" until the balance feels right to me.

On my favorites:

ATC Rogers' Rangers Spike 'Hawk - seemed to balance out just right at about 21".

Cold Steel Rifleman's 'Hawk - turned out perfect at 24".

I never go under 20". I consider a handle length of 20" minimal for my use. I'm 6'5" and anything shorter than that is just too stubby-feeling for me. I like a nice balance of reach, agility, and speed. A handle length of less than 20" lacks reach while one in excess of 25" is too awkward. I would pick a generic length of 23" as an all purpose length if I had too but I'd still rather fit the length:balance:weight proportion to each individual handle if I can.

But that's just my preference. Your results may vary.

Another advantage of the 20"-25" length is this still allows you to easily use the tomahawk with one hand and still maintains enough length if you needed to deliver a powerful two-handed blow. It also gives you more length for blocking and parrying.
 
Robert Newton makes or made those things out of 5160. unfortunately he decided to give up full time knife making for truck driving the last i heard:( so i don't know if you could get one very easily anymore.
 
Great stuff crossada!

Now, if I could get that thing for, oh, about one-fifth of the price...:D

Until then, I'm going to just take ideas from it. It's convinced me, spike's gone. In the spike's place, perhaps: steel pinched out to about an inch of length, with a circle pierced out of it, forming a loop. It can be used for blunt trauma or, primarily, for a wrist strap like that Combat Hawk.

Otherwise, could forsake having anything on the back the head and anchor the strap just below the head on the handle. Probably won't be as secure as the steel loop, but will save some weight.

Anchoring the wrist strap to or near the head is utter brilliance, wish I thought of it!
 
Just a couple of thoughts from my end. Don't invest in something really expensive until you spend some time with the Tomahawk. Putting too much focus on this or that 'ultimate design' will really get you nowhere. Learn about 'You' first and how your body reacts to swinging a hawk around will tell you a lot. It is 'the man' that makes the weapon work that's important. I have several edged weapons that I had designed when I was a much younger man and now, years later I realize how stupid I was focusing on the weapon and not focusing on Dwight. Come to the realization that your mind will change over time and what was 'cool' and 'neat' then just may be impractical as hell today. I don't mean this as a negative but rather just leave yourself lots of room when you start making you mind up. It took me almost 8 years to find a Bowie that really suited me. Bottom line to answer your question is that of weight that YOU can handle comfortably. Those big beautiful, massive heads are nice if you are strong enough. Go cheap early that will help you make up your mind. I guess there is no best fighting hawk on levels of training. I wish I was there to hand you examples of the custom (historical reproductions-very accurate) and the production versions of some of my hawks. Swing each and feel the weight and that point where gravity takes over ......that's the magic that will help with your decision. Be Very, VERY, carefull
here.....this stuff is addictive.

My Very Best, and good luck in your search.

Dwight
 
http://www.ragweedforge.com/ThrowingCatalog.html


Scroll your way down to Slasinski Foundry and item #S-HA This hawk will surprise you. Well balanced, wicked fast. Very tough 'hawk. The hammer can be used very effectively as a crushing, capturing weapon. Without being overly hazardous to the wielder

"#S-HA: The Slasinski Hammer 'Hawk is a bit more substantial. The head weighs about 12 ounces and the handle is much thicker. The cutting edge is just under 3", and the head is just under 8" in length. It comes with a 19" handle that is quite a bit thicker than the one used with the kid's hawk. It's very similar to one pictured in Newman and Kravic's Collector's Illustrated Encyclopedia of the American Revolution.
The price is $45. "



with that head weight, and the thicker wood handle, that thing has gotta weigh at least 30 ounces - almost two pounds in less than a foot and a half little handle?!!!

if you want a fighter, brother 'drag - a REAL FIGHTER, you need to get the weight down to an ounce per inch, brother, give or take 10 percent.

as a matter of fact, an ounce per inch for a polled hawk is my Standard. - you never have to use it as a weapon, it just happens to be a damn good one.

the weights you are citing are battle axes - and a hawk will defeat them in H2H, just as a rapier defeated the Claymore.

if you don't believe me - let's duel for dough right now before you change your mind - i need to pay child support...:cool::thumbup:....

you use whatever you want for the duel, these'll be mine, if that's okay....
infidels%20013.JPG

(1) Infidel Protoype Survival Handle Mini-Hawk (front, below)

Length: 18.5 Inches
Weight: 20 Ounces

(2) Infidel Long Norse Hawk (back, above)

Length: 31 Inches
Weight: 31 Ounces


i'd listen to brother dwight, first of all - his advice will stand the test of time.

and what is this wood handles stuff i keep hearing about, brother dwight...? :D

vec
 
Vector: I can't help myself, as my says sometimes I turn into an Old Fashioned Turkey. Guess I read too much History.....BUT it is really nice,,,,really nice being retired now and having the time to mess this tomahawk stuff.

All My Very Best
Dwight.
 
Listen to what Vector said when he said to listen to what Dwight said. LOL. Dwight's got more experience and knowledge in his head about tomahawks than almost anyone on this board.
 
"#S-HA: The Slasinski Hammer 'Hawk is a bit more substantial. The head weighs about 12 ounces and the handle is much thicker. The cutting edge is just under 3", and the head is just under 8" in length. It comes with a 19" handle that is quite a bit thicker than the one used with the kid's hawk. It's very similar to one pictured in Newman and Kravic's Collector's Illustrated Encyclopedia of the American Revolution.
The price is $45. "



with that head weight, and the thicker wood handle, that thing has gotta weigh at least 30 ounces - almost two pounds in less than a foot and a half little handle?!!!

if you want a fighter, brother 'drag - a REAL FIGHTER, you need to get the weight down to an ounce per inch, brother, give or take 10 percent.

as a matter of fact, an ounce per inch for a polled hawk is my Standard. - you never have to use it as a weapon, it just happens to be a damn good one.

the weights you are citing are battle axes - and a hawk will defeat them in H2H, just as a rapier defeated the Claymore.

if you don't believe me - let's duel for dough right now before you change your mind - i need to pay child support...:cool::thumbup:....

you use whatever you want for the duel, these'll be mine, if that's okay....
infidels%20013.JPG

(1) Infidel Protoype Survival Handle Mini-Hawk (front, below)

Length: 18.5 Inches
Weight: 20 Ounces

(2) Infidel Long Norse Hawk (back, above)

Length: 31 Inches
Weight: 31 Ounces


i'd listen to brother dwight, first of all - his advice will stand the test of time.

and what is this wood handles stuff i keep hearing about, brother dwight...? :D

vec

:jerkit:

Just trying to join in on the conversation. Along comes this asshat. ColdSteel 'hawks press fitted into resin handles :barf:. You can't put enough duracoat on that abotion to make them worth what your trying to rape people for.

BTW I have a ColdSteel Frontier 'hawk, with it's 19 " hickory handle it weighs in at 23oz the 'hawk I mention above comes in at 24. I honestly don't know how the weight is distributed.

Aw screw it if that's the type of responses I'm going to get, This place sure as hell doesn't need me. I'M NOT YOU DAMNED BROTHER! NOT BY A LONG SHOT!!
 
now gentlemen, i see no reason to get heated over this topic. aside from a soldier bashing someone in the head i don't see this ever coming to play. people just don't fight with these things anymore! it is meant to be fun and to keep the american martial arts alive imo. train with what you like and let the next guy do the same:D
 
:jerkit:

Just trying to join in on the conversation. Along comes this asshat.

that's pretty tough talk, brother.

no reason to feel unwelcome here, at least as far as i am concerned - i was just calling it how i saw it - didn't you come here for advice...?

i gave ya mine, and explained why, using the subject of your example.

did you take that as a mark of animosity...?

i thought i was saving ya some money.

:D

ColdSteel 'hawks press fitted into resin handles :barf:. ...

that's not what they are, but thanks for your opinion.:thumbup:

I'M NOT YOU DAMNED BROTHER! NOT BY A LONG SHOT!!

interesting response.

:rolleyes::cool:

vec
 
I bought a Cold Steel Vietnam Tomahawk thinking it would be the best 'fighter' (handle/haft is about 14 inches)...

ColdSteelVietnamTomahawk.jpg


Then I decided to try throwing it... Ummm, it broke...

So... I buy the ATC VTAC... I thought it would be the best 'fighter' (about 14 inches on this haft, too)...

ATCVTAC.jpg


To me now, the ATC VTAC 'is' the best 'fighter'... but at one point, I even had a Cold Steel Frontier Hawk fitted with a 14 inch handle (in this picture below, it still has the 'factory' 19 inch handle)... With a 14 inch haft, it would be a good choice for a 'fighter', too!!!

ColdSteelFrontierHawk1.jpg


Basically, it's like handguns... there are some that work well overall for a lot of folks...
Bottom line, though... you need to find out what suits YOU the best!!!

Not to be rude... but you need to figure some of this out by just 'doing it'... Buy a $25 Cold Steel Hawk, and mess around with it... If you break it, Cold Steel will replace it... no big deal...
 
:jerkit:

Just trying to join in on the conversation. Along comes this asshat. ColdSteel 'hawks press fitted into resin handles :barf:. You can't put enough duracoat on that abotion to make them worth what your trying to rape people for.

BTW I have a ColdSteel Frontier 'hawk, with it's 19 " hickory handle it weighs in at 23oz the 'hawk I mention above comes in at 24. I honestly don't know how the weight is distributed.

Aw screw it if that's the type of responses I'm going to get, This place sure as hell doesn't need me. I'M NOT YOU DAMNED BROTHER! NOT BY A LONG SHOT!!

for the post in red...you get what you pay for....and from what I read he was not attacking you he was just "sayin"....
relax
 
:jerkit:

Just trying to join in on the conversation. Along comes this asshat. ColdSteel 'hawks press fitted into resin handles :barf:. You can't put enough duracoat on that abotion to make them worth what your trying to rape people for.

BTW I have a ColdSteel Frontier 'hawk, with it's 19 " hickory handle it weighs in at 23oz the 'hawk I mention above comes in at 24. I honestly don't know how the weight is distributed.

Aw screw it if that's the type of responses I'm going to get, This place sure as hell doesn't need me. I'M NOT YOU DAMNED BROTHER! NOT BY A LONG SHOT!!


Why dont you and your 3 posts take a seat and stew for a while on why its really poor form to insult long time members here... especially someone like vector whos reputation is well established.
 
If you have any thoughts regarding why you would or would not want this in your hand when a life's on the line, and/or what you change on it to make it more ideal, than, please, post 'em!

Buy some inexpensive rigs and put them through a lot of practice till you get the feel of things. Then slowly buy better ones. Figure out which type of moves suit you as well. It depends on your body type, strength, and fitness.

The results may surprise you.
 
The instructions on my CQC-t which has that composite nylon handle (I think? Hell it's synthetic not wood) is 'IT AIN'T STRONG ENOUGH FOR THROWING'. I think that is a pretty good rule of thumb to go by. Damn you guys ! I guess I'm going to have to invest in a Lagana (probably overdue) to compare the two. All of you should be ashamed of yourselfs for making me think 'outside the box' on this modern stuff.

All the Best
Dwight
 
Not to be rude... but you need to figure some of this out by just 'doing it'... Buy a $25 Cold Steel Hawk, and mess around with it... If you break it, Cold Steel will replace it... no big deal...

Well......That sort lays-it-out there, does is not? Really focus on the 'Doing' aspect till you figure out what WORKS for YOU.

All My Best
Dwight
 
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