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Making this guard? Any ideas?

Discussion in 'Shop Talk - BladeSmith Questions and Answers' started by fateofone, Oct 31, 2016.

  1. fateofone


    Sep 21, 2016
    Hello everyone. I was wondering if someone knew of an ingenious way to make this guard that I'm not thinking of. I'm essentially thinking of simply getting a round steel the same size and cutting out each groove with an angle grinder. It just seems extremely tedious, but I'm thinking shy of a 100k machine, it's my only option. If anyone has any suggestions, I'm all ears.
  2. MarkJeffrey


    Nov 7, 2013
    Sawing and hand filing would be much more precise than a grinder I'd think
  3. fateofone


    Sep 21, 2016
    Well, the grinder is for the main stock removal. I would still hand file etc. I just wanted to know if there's anything even faster lol. Shy of a CNC machine.
  4. Salem Straub

    Salem Straub

    Oct 20, 2008
    In my opinion, that is the wrong kind of thinking, going into handmade knives... you're going to find a lot of tedium in this craft, better get used to it.
    That shape looks easy enough to saw and file out, as Mark has stated. I have difficulty seeing it as a guard, though.
  5. fateofone


    Sep 21, 2016
    Oh, it's a guard lol. It's not my design really. Either way, I appreciate it. Just thought I may have been looking at it the wrong way.
  6. tinkerer


    Oct 6, 2009
    Dykem and scratch out your pattern. I would use a cutoff blade in my cut off saw and slowly do each indentation and than go back and finish it with hand files.

    My 2 cents worth.

  7. AVigil

    AVigil Adam Vigil knifemaker working the grind Platinum Member

    Feb 17, 2009
    That could be done with a triangle file and grinder
  8. Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith

    Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith ilmarinen - MODERATOR Moderator Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Aug 20, 2004
    +1 on tinkerer's points.

    From a lot of experience, I will tell you that you need to cut the basic blank and slot it first. Don't do that until after HT. Once the basic guard blank is done, the slot is centered, and the profile is right, add the gear look.

    For an 8-fold symmetry guard:

    Mark a line from the top to the bottom ( 12:00 and 6:00) on the vertical axis through the tang slot
    Mark the side axis line ( 3:00 and 9:00) at 90 degrees to the slot.
    Mark the spots between these for the other gear teeth.
    Saw/grind a small slot on each mark down the center. You can cut diagonal cuts to make a rough tooth.
    Use a square file to cut in the final shapes.
    Do each tooth part-way, and slowly define all of them as a group- NEVER do one then the next!!!!
    Leave some room for fine filing, sanding, and buffing.
    The guard can be darkened in FC or Parkerized.
  9. kuraki

    kuraki Fimbulvetr Knifeworks

    Jun 17, 2016
    I've been wanting to try form dressing a grinding wheel on a bench grinder to shape to do coining/etc like this, like I would do if I was surface grinding form geometry on a piece of tooling.
  10. JTknives

    JTknives Blade Heat Treating www.jarodtodd.com Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Jun 11, 2006
    Looks like "brass nuckles" to me. Can we see the full knife?
  11. Rick Marchand

    Rick Marchand Donkey on the Edge Moderator

    Jan 6, 2005
    I just want to restate one point in Stacy's advice...

    Never do one, then the next!

    Do them as a whole, a little bit at a time.
  12. Alfazulu


    Mar 24, 2016
    What is the reason for doing them all together and not just one at a time?
  13. Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith

    Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith ilmarinen - MODERATOR Moderator Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Aug 20, 2004
    Lets use an example. You want to draw six smiley faces. If you draw them all at the same time, they should be more or less the same. Draw six circles, add six curves smiles, add six sets of eye dots - result is six nearly identical faces.
    If you draw one face, then draw another, and repeat six times, the last one will not be like the first.

    It is even worse when doing something like a patterned guard or file work. You need to establish the location, set the spacing, deepen each notch, and walk them left and right to keep the spaces between them even. I think every maker who has done a lot of this type work will agree that if you completely make one notch and the move to the next, the last one will not be properly spaced as well as the likelihood that the notched will be slightly different.

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