Making wood model !

foxjaw

foxjaw

Joined
Nov 19, 2001
Messages
317
I'm currently making a wood model to send at some point to the kamis. It is a reproduction of a 19th century khuk and is somewhat like the berk special excepting that it has a full hanshee type arc and a deeper belly. 22 inches over all. the wood model really has a great feel and look to it also its thickness is 3/8ths of an inch. should be very fast ! I plan to double fuller it and was wondering if anyone would have any advice on the best way to cutthe fullers into the wood ?

thanks
Foxy
 
A hand held belt sander would work. Hold the sander so the tip of the belt just makes contact to the wood. Be sure the wood is clamped down securely.:)

Sam
 
DaveK and I were just having this same discussion...

We thought that using the approx. 2" pulley on a 4"x36" belt sander with a lot of control, would give a "fuller-effect" without removing too much wood to make the model fragile.

If you are short on power tools, try this:

Get a small can (think small tomato sauce can) and glue sand paper to the outside of it. Then sand the blade with the can lengthwise.

You could also fasten a dowel to the outside bottom of the can (secured to another piece of wood glued to the inside bottom of the can) to turn it into a drum/mandrel sander for use with a hand-held drill.

I've done something similar to this when sanding 1" holes for fit-up for furniture.

Dan
 
I use the round blade for my large exacto knife very carefully and then hand sand, starting with very aggressive floor sanding sand paper.
The other ideas here sound much easier.:)
 
For the sax I'm thinking the dremel with some kind of a jig to keep the grind straight with the spine of the blade. Probably shouldn't be necesary with the curves of a khukuri, but you never know...

Haven't done anything yet though, so just speculation at this point.

-Dave
 
I've always found scrapers to be handy for this type of work. In a pinch you can make one out of a putty knife.
Regards,
Greg
 
Sorry, Foxjaw - no ideas from me. Just remember to get the sign-up thread going when it's time. That sounds like something worth looking forward to.

S.
 
Good Idea Dave. ;)

I have a Dremel. I've almost learned how to control it properly. Seems like a valuable tool, but something that deserves it's own set of rules. It doesn't behave like other power tools...:rolleyes:

I think I'm one of those people on this planet that is prone to "jerry-riggin" a solution...just making do with whatever I've got right in front of me.

I sure wish I knew better sometimes, though.. :(

I do think it would save a lot on the "return and repair" time...:eek:

Of course, if everything in my house was fixed and nothing ever needed repair, what good would I be to my wife? :p
 
Yeah, try using it lefty...presents a whole new bunch of rotational and directional considerations. I was using a micro-fine diamond bit for some deer bone handle carving, and it skipped off the bone, onto my right thumbnail (right hand holding the piece while working eith the left), skittered across nail and buried itself in the nailbed at the edge of the nail. It grabbed under there so hadr, it ground the dremel to a halt (which was fine by me, since it had done enuf damage under the nail for my tastes. Felt like a bad burn and laceration under the nail.

GOtta watch even those smaller power tools, they'll getcha. Still, I've injured meself many times more with blades than power tools.

Keith
 
Originally posted by Ferrous Wheel
.GOtta watch even those smaller power tools, they'll getcha.

Keith
Click to expand...

Y'all need to get yourselves a flexshaft for the Dremel. It's much easier to try and control than the motor with a bit in its end. :rolleyes: :p
I like my Ryobi better than my Dremel though. The speed switch is seperate from the on/off switch which I like a whole bunch better!!!!:)

Two hands is the key when doing detailed work. Mine has gotten away from me a time or two as well.:rolleyes: :o :(
 
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