Manix 2 edge angle uneven, what should I do?

[Father & Son Traditional Sharpening]

First of all, 'thin' edge means different things to different people. Without measuring the thickness behind the edge bevel and the approximate DPS, calling something thin is rather vague.

Secondly, before investing in any sort of sharpening system…. learn how to sharpen freehand and grab that Norton Economy from Home Depot. It's not difficult once you understand the basics, all that's left is to develop the feel/technique/muscle memory.

Thirdly, don't bother sending it back in for sharpening or replacement… as Jason already said it will likely not meet your satisfaction anyways. I never would send a knife in for sharpening personally, as I can't stand out of box sharpness on most if not all factory knives out there.

But it eventually bugged me enough to even them up on my Sharpmaker with CBN rods at 30° with a 40° micro bevel.

Would this be inclusive or DPS? If DPS, why did you feel the need to double the angle of what came factory? 15-20 DPS per side should be at the higher end of what most should ever want/need on a knife that isn't just made for destructive testing or cutting metal.

 

[TravisH]

But it eventually bugged me enough to even them up on my Sharpmaker with CBN rods at 30° with a 40° micro bevel.

Would this be inclusive or DPS? If DPS, why did you feel the need to double the angle of what came factory?

Oops, right, I should not have mixed conventions.

The Delica had uneven primary bevel, 15°dps one side, 20°dps the other.

I used the 30° and 40° settings on the Sharpmaker to get an even primary bevel of 15°dps with an even micro bevel of 20°dps.

 

[droptrd]

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My manix 2 was 10x worse than that. Uneven front to back and left to right. But still crazy sharp out of the box. I kept the factory bevel until I got my first chip in it. Then it evened it out on my wicked edge at 18dps with a 20dps micro bevel. I love that knife.

 

[baliflipper02]

One of my Delica ZDP's had uneven bevels, about 15° on one side, 20° on the other. It was sharp and had no trouble slicing.

But it eventually bugged me enough to even them up on my Sharpmaker with CBN rods at 30° with a 40° micro bevel.

My problem isn't that the angle is higher or lower one one side of the edge, its that if you go on one side of the edge, the edge angle gets really steep and its uneven. I posted a photo.

 

[Bobby3326]

My problem isn't that the angle is higher or lower one one side of the edge, its that if you go on one side of the edge, the edge angle gets really steep and its uneven. I posted a photo.

Um if one side is ground steeper than the other, thin as you call it then that would mean one side is ground at a more acute angle than the other and at different angles along that edge. However like many have said just use it until it needs sharpening and then either fix it or sharpen it normally and after a few times it'll start correcting itself.

 

[Jamesh Bond]

The advice in this thread is good.

This issue is wayyyyy OCD.

This is coming from me, an extremely OCD person.

Learning to remove metal is the first thing anyone serious about knives should do. With that knowledge, issues like this wont exist. Additionally, the blade will then always be ready to do what it is made for. Cutting.

Good luck.

 

[aesmith]

My problem isn't that the angle is higher or lower one one side of the edge, its that if you go on one side of the edge, the edge angle gets really steep and its uneven. I posted a photo.

If you try, just gently, with Sharpmaker at 40 degrees, does it hit the edge all the way along? If so then I'd seriously suggest just sharpening like that, and worry about the uneven bevel another time. As it's resharpened it will sort itself out.

 

[baliflipper02]

If you try, just gently, with Sharpmaker at 40 degrees, does it hit the edge all the way along? If so then I'd seriously suggest just sharpening like that, and worry about the uneven bevel another time. As it's resharpened it will sort itself out.

I sharpen all of my Spyderco's at 30 degrees, should I try 40?

 

[Bobby3326]

I sharpen all of my Spyderco's at 30 degrees, should I try 40?

Many I've seen using the sharpmaker set the bevel using the 30° and then hit the 40° to strengthen the edge with a micro bevel.

I believe he was saying using the 40° if it's hitting the entire edge just to keep it sharp then once you under take damage worry about truly sharpening it.

 

[calc]

Well I'm worried about edc because it gets scary thin around the tip area, and I know that thin edges are not ideal for edc. I might send it into a profession to put and even angle on it that I can maintain on the SM

IMO thin edges are perfect for EDC. It depends on what your EDC really entails, of course, but I prefer to go as thin as possible unless a special job comes along that requires otherwise.

I sharpen all of my Spyderco's at 30 degrees, should I try 40?

It depends. Sharpening at a higher angle will simply put a secondary bevel on until you grind all the way through to the shoulder. This is an exaggerated example of what that looks like:

Of course, that can be a good thing if you want to reset the edge. But personally, I would just keep sharpening at 30, and eventually the edge will even out. If it's really bothering you, you can of course send it back to Spyderco and ask them to do it for you. But IMO that's not too bad, I've seen much worse.

 

[baliflipper02]

IMO thin edges are perfect for EDC. It depends on what your EDC really entails, of course, but I prefer to go as thin as possible unless a special job comes along that requires otherwise.



It depends. Sharpening at a higher angle will simply put a secondary bevel on until you grind all the way through to the shoulder. This is an exaggerated example of what that looks like:

Of course, that can be a good thing if you want to reset the edge. But personally, I would just keep sharpening at 30, and eventually the edge will even out. If it's really bothering you, you can of course send it back to Spyderco and ask them to do it for you. But IMO that's not too bad, I've seen much worse.

What I'm worried about is, if I sharpen it on the 30 degree setting, I will basically be reprofiling it, correct? I know over a period of time it will reprofile, but what I'm trying to say is, will it still be sharp? I don't want to go through the basic movements of the Sharpmaker then find out I started a major reprofile and need to finish. Know what I'm saying? Its hard to put into words but I hope y'all understand and could help me out.

 

[TravisH]

What I'm worried about is, if I sharpen it on the 30 degree setting, I will basically be reprofiling it, correct?

Well ... yeah. Technically, sharpening at any angle other that the original angle is 'reprofiling'.

I don't want to go through the basic movements of the Sharpmaker then find out I started a major reprofile and need to finish. Know what I'm saying? Its hard to put into words but I hope y'all understand and could help me out.

If you want to 'fix' your issue, you will need to reprofile.

If you have Diamond or CBN rods, it won't take that long. Again, I reprofiled my Delica and it only took an hour.

 

[calc]

What I'm worried about is, if I sharpen it on the 30 degree setting, I will basically be reprofiling it, correct? I know over a period of time it will reprofile, but what I'm trying to say is, will it still be sharp? I don't want to go through the basic movements of the Sharpmaker then find out I started a major reprofile and need to finish. Know what I'm saying? Its hard to put into words but I hope y'all understand and could help me out.

It really depends on what the bevel is set at currently. Do you know what the Sharpie trick is?

 

[Bobby3326]

What I'm worried about is, if I sharpen it on the 30 degree setting, I will basically be reprofiling it, correct? I know over a period of time it will reprofile, but what I'm trying to say is, will it still be sharp? I don't want to go through the basic movements of the Sharpmaker then find out I started a major reprofile and need to finish. Know what I'm saying? Its hard to put into words but I hope y'all understand and could help me out.

Take a sharpie and color in you current bevel, now do a few strokes on each side with a fine rod just to see where steel is coming off. If on the 30° setting your only removing it from the shoulders then your bevel is greater than 30°. You can then try it again on the 40° and see where it's coming off. If your still only hitting the shoulders then you might as well reprofile it to the 30° you like. If your just hitting the edge on 40° then your micro beveling it and you'll be able to maintain that micro bevel until you need to reprofile it.

 

[aesmith]

I don't want to go through the basic movements of the Sharpmaker then find out I started a major reprofile and need to finish.

That's why I was suggesting 40 degrees. Given that you've expressed some about the grind, I think it's highly unlikely that you'll hit the apex along the whole edge at 30 degrees. However I think there's a good chance at 40 degrees. As to whether that's the best angle, it depends on the use you put the knife to. Reprofile to 30 degrees will be a lot of work if all you have is the Sharpmaker. It won't be any more work if you use the knife for a bit at 40 degrees first before deciding it really has to be 30 for your use.

Tony S

 

[baliflipper02]

It really depends on what the bevel is set at currently. Do you know what the Sharpie trick is?

Yes. I do it on all my spydies and I sharpen with the 30 degree setting, usually.