Manix 2 Spring Rate Reduction?

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pndubisk

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Sep 11, 2020
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Hi, new around here and just picked up a Manix 2 S30V.

Only had the knife a few days but I really like it so far. Replacing my the ZDP-189 Stretch 2 I've carried for a few years, at least for now (absolutely buying a Shaman Z-wear when they drop). The only issue I have is the srping tension is kinda crazy imo. I've been opening and closing it a lot in an attempt to break it in, so much so I have a pretty significant hot spot on my thumb.

Does anybody know of some ways to reduce the spring rate? I was thinking maybe I would order a replacement spring and annealing it would be a good start, if not something of a guessing game. Are there softer springs available in the aftermarket or directly from Spyderco?
 
Welcome to BladeForums! :)

There are folks out there who have trimmed the end of the Manix 2's spring to "soften" the action. I've never tried that myself, and I'd definitely search it up and watch some videos before attempting it if you go that route. (IMO, spring-cutting could also impact the warranty.)

My Manix 2's (one G10, one Lightweight) both broke in after a week or two of fidgeting/use. My thumb and forefinger were pretty sore at first, so yours may just need some time.
 
Thanks for the replies.

Both those ideas were in my head too. Maybe I could file it to take some preload out. I haven't had it apart yet so I haven't looked too closely at the spring, only some flytanium upgrade videos.

I'll keep working it and see how it goes, but yeah, this thumb is feeling it lol.

Also, just bought a PM3 52100 combo! I'm out to pick up a few different steels and build a little collection of users.
 
I would not cut a coil off. I'd start with a 1/4 of a coil at most. A little goes a long way on a small spring.

I may be thinking of another knife but it seems to me that the spring tension was increase because hard use testing showed the lock could rebound and unlock the blade when pounding on the knife or something.
 
I've been working it a lot and it's getting much better. I doubt I would cut a spring, I'd sand down the ends a bit but I'd prefer annealing in nitrogen, if anything.
 
Before modifying the spring, put a drop of oil on the spring. There can be a lot of friction between the spring and its plastic guide rod if the plastic is dry. Silicone oil is particularly good for lubricating plastic. One drop a year is enough.
 
Btw, the spring weight is chosen for a reason. The ball bearing lock won't unlock even if you bang it down butt end first. That's due to the light weight plastic cage and heavy spring. Unlike the axis lock for example. This really only matters for self defense where you might hit stuff at odd angles. But I like the extra security of the heavy spring. If you don't care, no prob, lighten the spring.
 
I strongly recommend not goofing around with it. The spring will loosen, your hand will strengthen, and your skin will thicken.

Until then, if you fidget with it too much, your finger tips will get a little sensitive. I had the same problems at first with the Manix.

All steel springs become softer and shorter over time. Additionally the skin on the pads of your fingers will thicken without getting a callous.

Just give it some time. For now the best thing to do is stop fidgeting with it.
 
My finger and thumb are fine now. It took a bit to soften up the spring, maybe 500 cycles? Idk, could have been more or less.

At this point I won't mess with the spring, I may pit a drop of silicone oil on it. We have a few grades at work I could pick from.
 
I felt the same as you, mine was pretty stiff. Left it partially open for a few days in a row (compressing the spring) and that definitely helped.
 
That's bad a bag idea. I was doing something similar when I was cycling it. I was trying to cycle at the end range, other times I would hold the lock and cycle the full rom. Probably more like 1,000-1,500 cycles at this point. It has good action now though.
 
You can cut up to 1 1/2 coils off to improve the action.
Very close to a BM Axis lock.
And add a 3 1/16ths Ceramic ball.

NEVER CUT MORE THAN TWO COILS OFF.

https://bladeforums.com/threads/manix-2-lw-screw-conversion.1546282/

pndubisk said:
Does anybody know of some ways to reduce the spring rate? I was thinking maybe I would order a replacement spring and annealing it would be a good start, if not something of a guessing game. Are there softer springs available in the aftermarket or directly from Spyderco?
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
pndubisk said:
Does anybody know of some ways to reduce the spring rate? I was thinking maybe I would order a replacement spring and annealing it would be a good start, if not something of a guessing game.
Click to expand...

Changing the preload by chopping a couple coils might give you the effect you're seeking. I've done a couple with good results.

Keep in mind that the distance between coils at the ends of the springs is zero. So when you people tell you to chop one coil, you're having a different effect than if you chopped the second or third coil. The first coil won't have much effect. Anyway, if you just look at the spring you'll know what I'm talking about.

On my only remaining Manix 2, I chopped probably 2 coils (the first one with zero space, and then the second one). After reassembling and testing, I could have chopped more, but I didn't feel like taking it apart again. The knife works well enough now, but isn't perfect. The next one was a Manix 2 XL. On that one, I chopped close to three coils (one with zero space, and then the next two). On that knife, I think I hit the sweet spot. It's exactly what I'm looking for.

I have two LW's that I use, and I think they're oversprung. It's disappointing that they're riveted and would be a PITA to change. I have no idea why Spyderco uses such stiff springs, because "break in" is pretty much an illusion. If I could pose one question to the Spyderco Decisionmakers, it would be "WHY?" It's not uncommon to hear about folks wanting weaker springs, and NEVER have I heard of anyone wanting stiffer ones. Even so, the LW's are my favorites, despite the stiffness.

Also, you don't really want to "chop" the spring with a cutter. I find a bench grinder to be the best tool for shortening springs. Use the corner of the wheel to "cut" the spring long, then the face of the wheel to get the spring exactly where you want it. If you're not experienced, take special care not to lose control of the spring and send it flying across the garage. If you aren't paying attention and get the spring too hot, never drop it, and rest assured it will help build good calluses on your fingertips.
 
pndubisk said:
Hi, new around here and just picked up a Manix 2 S30V.

Only had the knife a few days but I really like it so far. Replacing my the ZDP-189 Stretch 2 I've carried for a few years, at least for now (absolutely buying a Shaman Z-wear when they drop). The only issue I have is the srping tension is kinda crazy imo. I've been opening and closing it a lot in an attempt to break it in, so much so I have a pretty significant hot spot on my thumb.

Does anybody know of some ways to reduce the spring rate? I was thinking maybe I would order a replacement spring and annealing it would be a good start, if not something of a guessing game. Are there softer springs available in the aftermarket or directly from Spyderco?
Click to expand...
You can buy weaker spring and upgraded ball kits on eBay for like 10 or 15 bucks. I did the upgrade and really like the results. It's now more like my BM axis lock knifes. The strength is still there as I installed a titanium ball cage from flytanium and takes a strong downward motion to open. Same with my BMs plus it makes it so much easier to close and its even more fidgety now. I got a second and a nitrogen ball bearing to do my second manix when I get the clear scales from karbadize...I highly recommend
pndubisk said:
Hi, new around here and just picked up a Manix 2 S30V.

Only had the knife a few days but I really like it so far. Replacing my the ZDP-189 Stretch 2 I've carried for a few years, at least for now (absolutely buying a Shaman Z-wear when they drop). The only issue I have is the srping tension is kinda crazy imo. I've been opening and closing it a lot in an attempt to break it in, so much so I have a pretty significant hot spot on my thumb.

Does anybody know of some ways to reduce the spring rate? I was thinking maybe I would order a replacement spring and annealing it would be a good start, if not something of a guessing game. Are there softer springs available in the aftermarket or directly from Spyderco?
Click to expand...
 
You could always order a second spring from Spyderco.
That way: you've got one for tinkering...
 
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