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Manix 2 XL not easily flicked?

Joined
Dec 30, 2008
Messages
4,563
Is there a way to tune these knives at all? I have my pivot adjusted so there's BARELY any bladeplay, and i mean a minute amount, to get it to come out easier. A slight wrist flick with my thumb will make it open, but the thumb alone won't (and i'm not a newbie when it comes to spyderco knives). I know this has the pivot "bushing" system in it. Also, do the pivot screws come loose as often on this model since it's the bushing type pivot?
 
I tightened the pivot on mine which meant zero bladeplay, but it wasn't as easy to flick open. Now that mine is broken in more it is easy to flip open and still has zero bladeplay. Just give it some time.
 
I find that while I can with effort open most Spydercos with a thumb flick, I don't the placement of my thumb thrown out towards the blade, for if it were to slip somehow. In my use, I've found that the middle finger flick from the back side of the spyderhole opens more easily and leaves all of your fingers completely away from the blade, while allowing you to keep a good grip. I can open even the lockback models this way, and was able to do so with a Manix2 I had briefly.
 
I keep mine as tight as possible why still being smooth, the only way I can flick at all is by pinching the lock open. With the lock open it flies open almost too fast, sometimes it hits the stop pin and closes again if I'm not timely in my release.
 
I'm thoroughly convinced it has a lot to do with your hand. I can thumb flick almost all my Spyders, but I can't for the life of me flick any of them with my middle finger (except for the Sage 3 for some reason). The fellas on youtube make it look so easy and effortless, but my hand is just not capable. I feel it's because my palm to finger length ratio is too small, giving me no grip on the handle with my palm which explains why my best attempts end in me dropping the knife. I almost stabbed myself 3 times just now trying to do it.
 
I keep mine as tight as possible why still being smooth, the only way I can flick at all is by pinching the lock open. With the lock open it flies open almost too fast, sometimes it hits the stop pin and closes again if I'm not timely in my release.

This is how I open my knives with any kind of lock that has ambidextrous studs like the BBL, bolt lock, or axis lock. It's just easier, more comfortable, and I imagine saves on wear since the lock is making no contact with the tang while the blade is in motion. Plus it's fun, as are most of these opening techniques.
 
I can do that with my axis lock knives but this knife seems to not like me. I've never had an issue I couldn't adjust out of a knife.
 
To be honest I find finger flicking (pfftt haha) knives to be a dangerous practice, if he blade doesn't travel enough it can be real easy to contact the edge on your way back to the handle.
 
I'm not good at using the thumb hole, I've always used thumb studs so that's more natural to me. I open and close my Manix by pulling the lock back which I like better anyway since I've been doing this with my Benchmades for years. This makes the blade free swing and it flies open and close extremely fast with just a little flick. Lockup is rock solid with no perceivable blade play. I love the bushing system, coming from using Benchmade's this is far superior.
 
Does this knife need loctite every time in break the pivot loose to keep the screws from coming out like a traditional pivot, or is it more apt to keep tight since it has the bushing style pivot?
 
There's a lot at play there. The spring for the ball bearing could be really really stiff because it's new. With time it will lose some tension and allow the blade to come out more easily. Trick is you can leave the blade half open (somewhere safe) so it compresses the spring. You can do that for a few days.

Pivot on the Manix actually pinches the washers against the liners so they tend not to move. Loosen the pivot screws some and add some oil.
 
I've oiled the pivot (and ball bearing) as well as introduced a slight amount of blade play. By slight I mean if you hold the lock back and hold at the tip you can feel a tiny amount. That tiny amount I can normally get out in other knives to have 0 play, but this knife seems to need a tiny bit to be smooth, not just for flicking.
 
Must be luck of the draw. Mine rocked out of the box.
[video=youtube;pYMhfyAqX0s]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pYMhfyAqX0s[/video]
 
Took it apart today, cleaned all the parts with rubbing alcohol. Then i got some teflon grease and coated my fingers in it to get a thin layer on the washers and ball bearing, then reassembled and used the torx bit by finger to tighten the pivot screws. No play and it flips open fine now. Weird.
 
To be honest I find finger flicking (pfftt haha) knives to be a dangerous practice, if he blade doesn't travel enough it can be real easy to contact the edge on your way back to the handle.

Yeah, I had to learn this the hard way : caught my thumb on the edge of the blade and it bled a lot. :redface:
 
My new one is pretty stiff and hard to close one-handed, but I can still flick it open with my thumb sometimes.
 
Both of mine, one regular and one s90v, are some of the easiest/smoothest flicking knives I own because of that massive blade! There's barely any side play and I'm usually picky about that. I've been carrying the s90v for the last week and I love it!
 
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