Manix II blade play when closed?

M

monsterdog

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Oct 27, 2008
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I got the Manix II in the new sprint run, its a really great looking and feeling knife, but I noticed last night that it has a lot of bladeplay with a little clicking sound in the closed positon. When open it feels very solid with no play.

Tightening the pivot screws didn't do anything, so I assume I would need to put in thicker washers to eliminate it.

Is this normal for this model or this lock type? You can test yours by closing it, pinch the spine of the blade and rock it from side to side.
 
I don't have mine yet so I can't compare. I feel like as long as it locks up tight with no blade play when open that's the important issue. Sorry I couldn't be of more help. When I get mine next week I'll post again with a comparison.
 
By wiggling firmly I can induce side to side movement without any noise at all.
The movement is about 1-2 mm and no worse than any other folder I have and probably better than most.

I am suprised that tightening down the pivot hasn't helped, may well be an issue there.

How much side to side play are we talking about here?
 
I don't have a Manix 2. I do own "several" hundred Spyderco folders. I cannot think of a single one of them which I could not move the blade from side to side while they are closed.

Paul
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The movement is normal I realize, all my other folders have some movement from side to side. We're talking about the 1-2 mm to each side mentioned above in this particular one.

What kind of had me thinking was the clicking sound and the fact that I can see the tang move when I do it, as if the pivot is a bit smaller than the hole it goes through in the tang.

I do realize as long as it locks up fine when open there isn't much of a problem, I was just curious if it was a property of the lock type, etc. So asked if other had the same experience.
 
Knives are only so rigid, they flex pretty easily. My CF Manix 2 has no play but it does flex.
 
It never occurred to me to check this before, but I just did, and my Manix II also has a bit of play when closed.

I think lock type definitely has an impact on this; all of my axis/bbl and back/mid lock knives have much more closed play any of my liner locks.

YMMV, since I made no attempt to account for differences in washer thickness and clearance between the blade and handle.

Regardless, it's not something that bothered me before today, and there's no compelling reason to allow it to do so in the future.
 
There was another thread that discussed tightening the pivot screw to avoid customs hassles (the dreaded 'gravity' opening for a knife that is enthusiastically flicked or shaken). I tried tightening mine, but it made no difference to ease of opening at all. Then I even tried taking a little metal off the end of each screw, thought they might be meeting end to end where they thread into the blade, but that again made no difference. I've accepted that a small amount of sideplay is normal, and not an issue. Vertical play (the one that really matters) is non existent... :cool:
 
Petros said:
There was another thread that discussed tightening the pivot screw to avoid customs hassles (the dreaded 'gravity' opening for a knife that is enthusiastically flicked or shaken). I tried tightening mine, but it made no difference to ease of opening at all. Then I even tried taking a little metal off the end of each screw, thought they might be meeting end to end where they thread into the blade, but that again made no difference. I've accepted that a small amount of sideplay is normal, and not an issue. Vertical play (the one that really matters) is non existent... :cool:
Click to expand...
Given that it has screw heads on both sides, it sounds like the M2 may use the same stepped "bushing" style pivot several other recent Spyderco models are using. If that's the case, it pretty much rules out tightening the pivot.

Paul
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It's easy to grin when your ship comes in and good fortune and fame are your lot, but the man worthwhile is the man who can smile with his shorts twsited up in a knot. - Morey Amsterdam
 
The Deacon said:
Given that it has screw heads on both sides, it sounds like the M2 may use the same stepped "bushing" style pivot several other recent Spyderco models are using. If that's the case, it pretty much rules out tightening the pivot.
Click to expand...

Well, that leaves more washers or abrading material off the bushing? If you care enough about it.. I do have to admit it bugs me a little, mostly because its actual movement of the entire blade and tang, not just flexing of the blade or washers. However, once the knife is open and the lock engaged, no play is evident. I guess I'll live with it.
 
monsterdog said:
Well, that leaves more washers or abrading material off the bushing? If you care enough about it.. I do have to admit it bugs me a little, mostly because its actual movement of the entire blade and tang, not just flexing of the blade or washers. However, once the knife is open and the lock engaged, no play is evident. I guess I'll live with it.
Click to expand...

Or you could send it back. Does it rattle when you shake it closed?
 
Josh K said:
Or you could send it back. Does it rattle when you shake it closed?
Click to expand...

I honestly didn't try that, will have to check when I get home. I don't want to be one of these people who send it back because the blade is 0.1mm off center, etc., I do realize its a production item and there will be variances.

Despite saying the above and having decided to carry it, I do still want the factory F&F of this knife to be near perfect since its such a small sprint run and such a nice knife, and I know it will bug me unless I know this is perfectly normal. My other Spydies have no problems like this, except both my Millies have fairly off center blades (so assume its very common.)

Does anyone know if the Manix II will come out with a FFG blade (regular steel and scales) later in continued production?

Has any of you taken this apart yet? If so, what is the pivot hole diameter? I could try to find some really thin shims to put in there. Doesn't seem to be enough to send it back to Golden for.
 
Mine will flex ever so slightly with pressure. Seems normal on mine.

However, the BB lock is VERY hard to pull back and is 'grabby' in spots. Definitely not smooth like an AXIS lock. Anyone else like this?
 
FlaMtnBkr said:
Mine will flex ever so slightly with pressure. Seems normal on mine.

However, the BB lock is VERY hard to pull back and is 'grabby' in spots. Definitely not smooth like an AXIS lock. Anyone else like this?
Click to expand...

Mine is smoother then my Axis lock knives. I can also operate the CBBL with one hand, no problems.
 
Josh K said:
Mine is smoother then my Axis lock knives. I can also operate the CBBL with one hand, no problems.
Click to expand...

Smoother than an axis? Send it back, it shouldn't be. All three of mine take firm pressure to release. I can operate them with one hand, but it is not easy and nowhere near my axis locks.
 
5.56 said:
Smoother than an axis? Send it back, it shouldn't be. All three of mine take firm pressure to release. I can operate them with one hand, but it is not easy and nowhere near my axis locks.
Click to expand...

It's firm, but so smooth. :)

I can release with one hand without problems, not as easy as the Axis lock, but still can be done.
 
I wish it was a little softer, I prefer the softness of the axis. It's smooth but stiff and can get a little painful after playing with it for awhile.
 
The axis lock is a refined bit of mechanics and hard to trump.:(

The caged ball lock has a lot going for it, but I won't be selling off my Benchmades just yet. I will admit that I prefer the ball lock on my Dodo, being able to see the inner workings and easier to disengage for me.

The tacky plastic tab and overly resistive spring of the caged ball lock cut it short of classic status for now IMHO.

I just put on my flame proof undies, so go to town.:p
 
So it sounds like the stiffness is about normal. One of mine though is not smooth, but maybe with time will smooth out.

I have wondered about taking one apart and trying to find a softer spring. Something else that might be considered on future BB locks (I think this would really help Sal!) is to have the 'throw' of the lock go further. It's like you pull it back and it disengages but the lock is pulled all the way back. If it could travel more it might do something with the stiffness but also lets you know in your head that the lock is definitely disengaged and it just feels more smooth.

Anyone else agree with this? Not to drag Benchmade into this but that is one reason I don't like the 710 as much as the newer 950 rift design. The 950 has lots of room to pull the AXIS back and just feels better. I got rid of my 710 because of this and I'm sure I'm not the only one who feels this way. Just trying to provide some user feedback that might help future variations of this great lock. Even my D'allara has more travel than this Manix one does.

Ryan
 
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