Tips that are slightly rounded off can be made pointier by turning the blade over and carefully grinding down the spine of the blade near the tip until it intersects with the sharp and fully apexed edge. That's the easiest way to do this by far, as opposed to trying to regrind the edge near the tip, which often results in the edge bevels near the tip looking dissimilar to the rest of the edge grind. Lay the spine to the stone, making contact a short distance behind the tip. Then use careful, light tip-trailing passes while smoothly lifting the butt end of the handle to follow the natural arc of the spine's grind to the tip. With very slight rounding of the tip as seen in your photos, it doesn't take much time to get the tip nicely pointy and crisp again. I do this with many of my knives, which often come with factory grinds that don't fully finish the tip profile. FWIW, the tip on your Manix looks like it might've come that way from the factory, as it resembles the tips on many new knives I've used. Test tip sharpness by piercing paper with the tip - it'll become obvious when the tip becomes pointy enough to easily pierce the paper under light pressure.
This also works well with damaged tips, albeit requiring much more time and more passes on the stone to reshape the tip's profile. I had to fix a broken tip on a Kershaw Leek in ZDP-189 after I'd reprofiled it to a more acute edge angle. The tip dug into a strop I was using and snapped a piece of it off. ZDP-189 is usually hardened very high, into mid-60s HRC, and it's definitely less tough, i.e., more brittle at such hardness. The 'before' and 'after' pics are below, after I reground the tip profile as I described above.
And here's another damaged tip I fixed in the same manner. This is one of two kitchen paring / utility knives my sister brought to me. Each of them, at different times, had fallen off a kitchen counter and landed tip-down on a linoleum floor with a concrete slab underneath it. Both tips punched through the linoleum and were severely bent. Using the same spine-down grinding approach, I removed all of the damaged portion to bring the spine down to the undamaged portion of the edge. In the 2nd photo, you can still see the presence of the heavy burr created on each side of the spine in the portion I reground. I used a ceramic hone to burnish those burrs away, in finishing up.
