- Joined
- Oct 7, 2006
- Messages
- 2,437
Mine looks just like this one.
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Manix2 Fit/Finish Quality Question
- Thread starter 5.56
- Start date
Mine looks just like this one.
- Joined
- May 1, 2004
- Messages
- 1,240
5.56,
To be fair, I think this is just a characteristic of the ball-lock. Similar to how most liner/frame locks with not engage in the exact same place.
The Dodo exhibited it as well. Note the biggest difference is between #2 and #3.
Not sure about the D'Allara but I would guess it has the same thing going on. Not something I would really be bothered by so long as the lock was functional, something really easy to see with the ball lock. :thumbup:
To be fair, I think this is just a characteristic of the ball-lock. Similar to how most liner/frame locks with not engage in the exact same place.
The Dodo exhibited it as well. Note the biggest difference is between #2 and #3.
Not sure about the D'Allara but I would guess it has the same thing going on. Not something I would really be bothered by so long as the lock was functional, something really easy to see with the ball lock. :thumbup:
- Joined
- Jun 2, 2006
- Messages
- 367
I've seen a little bit of this with the D'Allaras, but nothing so pronounced as those two Dodos or some of those M2s. It does seem odd to have so much variance, but I think that the fears many are expressing are actually unfounded.
Most of the apprehension I read about the ball-lock seems to come from ignorance of the mechanism. I don't claim to be an expert, but I've been playing with them for about two years now. I know that as long as the center of the ball is beyond the edge of the tang, it is physically impossible for the blade to close. Period. The distance beyond this point has no affect on lock-up, only how far the user will have to pull the ball back in order to disengage the lock. Now, granted, we all want to have the ball a bit beyond the safe point - for peace of mind - but it isn't strictly necessary that the ball be more than, say, a millimeter beyond the edge of the tang.
As for what causes these variations, I believe it is the distance between the liners. It would only take a small increase in the size of the gap to allow the ball to travel further forward. My guess is that most of the difference comes from the screws; these can vary in tension quite a bit from the factory. The rest is probably a matter of manufacturing tolerances.
Well, that's my take on it. I'd have to disassemble several M2s before I could be sure. Take it with a grain of salt... like pretty much anything I say.
Most of the apprehension I read about the ball-lock seems to come from ignorance of the mechanism. I don't claim to be an expert, but I've been playing with them for about two years now. I know that as long as the center of the ball is beyond the edge of the tang, it is physically impossible for the blade to close. Period. The distance beyond this point has no affect on lock-up, only how far the user will have to pull the ball back in order to disengage the lock. Now, granted, we all want to have the ball a bit beyond the safe point - for peace of mind - but it isn't strictly necessary that the ball be more than, say, a millimeter beyond the edge of the tang.
As for what causes these variations, I believe it is the distance between the liners. It would only take a small increase in the size of the gap to allow the ball to travel further forward. My guess is that most of the difference comes from the screws; these can vary in tension quite a bit from the factory. The rest is probably a matter of manufacturing tolerances.
Well, that's my take on it. I'd have to disassemble several M2s before I could be sure. Take it with a grain of salt... like pretty much anything I say.
- Joined
- Mar 14, 2007
- Messages
- 3,736
5.56,
To be fair, I think this is just a characteristic of the ball-lock. Similar to how most liner/frame locks with not engage in the exact same place.
The Dodo exhibited it as well. Note the biggest difference is between #2 and #3.
Not sure about the D'Allara but I would guess it has the same thing going on. Not something I would really be bothered by so long as the lock was functional, something really easy to see with the ball lock. :thumbup:
Did you buy all those because you couldn't sharpen them once they dulled?
BTW I took the top knife in the OP off his hands. So he's left with the wonky one to go along with his freak 4 washer para.
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2008
- Messages
- 103
My standard Manix 2's lock engages somewhere in the middle like the above S90V versions. I think this amount of engagement is good because it is fully engaged yet allows for self adjusting wear. I am not sure if the lock engaging further forward would affect longevity.