Many lessons learned, countless more now apparent

S

Skeaterbait

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Dec 17, 2014
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So, other than a bit more final sharpening and a good pounding to see how it holds up, I have my first attempt basically finished. Lots of aesthetically glaring mistakes that I need to work on and a few functional ones as well. I started with a 6° grind but later changed that to 8°, some of the 6° is left over at the handle end of the bevel. When I epoxied the scales on I didn't get the excess epoxy cleaned off well which affected the stain. The stain is Aquafortis which I had no idea would stain the steel so badly, now I have a nice dark area of steel in the handle area with a nice shiney spine.

I was a little shocked at how much of the stain leeched under the tape on the blade, that is pretty unsightly. Also, when I removed the tape I found that the blade had stains on it as well. Most of that could be polished off but the intended use for this one is a bush/camp beater.

I am pretty pleased with the shape and feel of the handle and the maple turned out nice in my eyes (aside from the epoxy lines). While I am disappointed with the overall outcome I am not discouraged and now looking forward to learning more on making a nicer handle without staining the blade.







 
Not a bad knife at all other than the mistakes you mentioned. I'd assume your next venture will be considerably better. It's not a bad lookin knife other than that. It will make a great user.

Jay
 
Have you tried running some steel wool/high grit sandpaper along the spine and ricasso to try to remove the corrosion? Definitely a good start :thumbup:
 
Steel wool should help with any corrosion and also help bring out a better shine on the finished maple handles. What steel is the blade made of?
But overall a nice knife man. It's definitely a learning curve but the next knife is always better.

Ted_Peachsmith
 
Thanks guys. I did try steel wool but it was starting to take the stain off. I actually thought I might just tape off the sides of the blade and run the stain down the rest of the spine and declare "I meant to do that".

It's 1095 but since I ordered in ignorance I heat treated in a forge the best I could. I have some 1084 I will be working with soon but I have a couple more in the 1095 to finish up.
 
I wouldn't bother taping the blade while staining the handle. It is far easier to remove wet stain from metal than dealing with dried pools and missed areas. I think your attitude is great.

The good news is that every new knife will be better than the last.
The bad news is that every new knife you make will be worse than the next.

Be proud of your mistakes. They are the perfect incentive for improvement.
 
The Aquafortis acts as an etchant which also etches and stains the steel, which seems to be hard to avoid when using it on a knife that you want to have a satin finished blade. I would buy some (I am about email him back to buy some in a few minutes here actually, this thread just reminded me! :D ) Majestic Maple Stain made by RW Wilson. Go here and send him an email of what you want: http://www.rwwilsonknives.com/dye-glue--more.html

Also, here is a video of it being used: http://www.rwwilsonknives.com/instructional-videos.html

Watch the second video on the page first, then watch the top one. The top one is about the Majestic "Finish" that is put on after the Majestic "Stain" (so you don't get them confused like I did at first) which is apparently just a mix of boiled linseed oil and tru oil. But in the "staining" video the other guy just uses true oil as a finish which looks like it turned out just as well.

Anyway, look at RW Wilson's tamahawk handles and some of his knives and you can see that it gives a just as beautiful finish as the Aquafortis method, but without the acid etching the steel, plus you don't have to exposed it to a flame or heat for it to work :thumbup: . At least I'm 90% sure it doesn't etch the steel, since the spine and blade on that guys knife in the staining video were not affected. I make sure and double check when I send him an email.

BTW- The instructional vids on youtube that I've found and watched for how to apply Aquafortis on knife scales were both by guys who were making "trade knives" for reenactors and they were going for a rustic and aged look on the entire knives anyway, so they don't seem to really take into account those who are wanting to have a clean satin finished blade (or bevel) and spine.

Hope this helps ya some :)

~Paul
My YT Channel Lsubslimed
 
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Honestly, my advice is to use handle material that just plain doesn't need finish. If you have a band saw you can buy cocobolo blocks and resaw them, getting at least 2 knives worth of wood for <$10. G10 and micarta scales are also cheap. Sand, polish, done. I know some precut scales and stabilized woods are expensive, but all finishes will wear eventually, to me it's just not worth the hassle.
 
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