Marine Glue Plastic Epoxy

this stuff is the resin, used for laminating fiberglass, the hardener which is a cream looks to be a redish brown color, but I was thinking it would dilute when I mix it with the clear resin (I hope anyway)
there was a normal fiberglass resin, and a polyester version, I remember Ariel using polyester for some of his so I got that version.
the was supposed to come with a clear tube of resin, from what I see on the bondo site, but I guess it went missing in the store and I just didn't notice, that's why I picked up the hardener too.
it would be nice to have the clear hardener too tho....
I didn't open it so I might see if I can exchange it later.

check it out here
the white cap is missing that would have held the tube.
 
Steven,

I'll see if I can find exactly what brand I buy in bulk next week.

The kind I use has a variable hardening time depending on the ammount of hardener that you add, it's not like you have X ammount of time to finish the layering...

What's important is that you get a nice and uniform pressure so there's no air holes inside the resin and you can polish it to a nice piece later on.

Regards,

Ariel
 
www.woodcraft.com , has 2 part epoxy mixes by the gallon jug. Its in the finishing section. Well, at least the store in town caries it, I haven't actually looked at the website. They're getting to have more and more stores around, might be on ein your area.
 
yeah I was just trying to check it and for some reason it is saying my account is currently inactive...grrrrrrr.....I'll have to call them up and see what's going on.

send it to this one:
slinthorne(at)gmail.com
 
The stuff I use is a polyester resin for fiberglassing. It's clear, and the hardener is also clear (contains proylene oxide - nasty stuff will eat your skin.) I usually mix it a bit light on hardener, so it cures a little slower. Also, the cooler the temperature when getting this all put together, the more time you have. If it's hot in your shop, it will set up really fast.
Clear casting resins are also good. Hobby shops and crafts stores sell it.
There are some automotive stores, along with glass boat builders, that carry clear resins.
The strangest stuff I've made was out of a blue mylar metallic fabric. It wasn't my idea, but it came out okay. I did that with a one-part heat-curing epoxy which I can't find again...
A nice, clear 24 hr epoxy would be ideal, as you'd have ample time to get it all arranged and clamped down. :)
Howie
 
the stuff I have right now is the polyester for working with fiberglass, I haven't tried it yet because I'm still thinking I'll never get it all done in time :rolleyes:
I might try it with less hardener, and I'm working in my basement, so it'll be pretty cold...
might even do it outside, now that the cold weather is here
 
paintfool said:
I have no idea how I'm going to get all the layers done in 10-12 minutes tho :eek:
Click to expand...

Why do you have to do all of the layers at once? Put on as many as you can at once, say 3-4, and let it set. Take off the top plate and add another 3-4 layers. Working on a smaller number of layers would allow you to better see, and get rid of, any trapped air bubbles. The clamping force would also be working on fewer layers, at a time, giving you a denser product. Building it up a few layers at a time would "take longer" but it would still be faster than if you had to fix a flaw found in the handle slabs after it has been pinned to your blade.
 
I was thinking that too, but it would be 3-4 layers every 16+ hours, with a thin cotton/poly fabric no thicker than a sheet of paper, the first batch had close to 100 layers, it would take months to complete one sheet :eek:

I was also thinking maybe going with something a little thicker, but that's not the look I'm after.

I just have to get a start on it and see how many layers I can do in that amount of time, it might work out, but for now I need to work on blades :cool:

do you guys know how much of a delay cold temps make? right now it's hovering just above freezing outside.
 
bladsmth said:
That's too cold.Must be at least 50 degrees,if I remember right.
Click to expand...

well couldn't I do it outside then take it inside and let it warm up/harden?
I'll try a small batch tomorrow and see what happens :)

btw, thanks for all the help guys! this forum rocks :cool:
 
Some of the resins, after curing, have a wax residue on the outside. It makes mold release easier. You'd have to clean the wax off to do multiple layers. Vinegar will take off most wax, the some thinner or alcohol to get the residal wax. Some resins are waxless. Check before doing layers, else you'll have layers that are poorly adhered to one another. ;)
As for the temperature, yes, 50 deg istoo cold for curing. It's okay to be at 50 deg to put the package together, but it must be brought up intemperature to cure properly. Don't put it in the oven, as the wife will skin you. Use a heat gun or lamp to warm it up to 70-80 deg., then leave it alone... :)

Howie
 
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