Martial arts and knives

D

DarkPilgrim

Joined
Oct 19, 2005
Messages
13
Hi,

I've been getting into making martial arts tools. Right now I'm working on shuriken (throwing stars/knives). I'm making them with 4 points and I am planning to use 1095. I would like any advice on heat treating them. Should they be through hardened or only hard on the tips? I'm thinking that I'd leave the center soft to absorb impact considering that they are going to be thrown at wooden targets. I made some prototypes out of M4 and they work well though one tip broke off when it hit the target sideways. I think it was too hard.

Thanks,

Jeff
 
I think you would want a spring temper, all the way through - high 40's/low 50's.

I make bo-shuriken out of W-1 square stock, and I temper at 600° to 700°, according to the tempering chart for this material. (flyingsteel.com). I used to temper at 450°, but some shattered upon hitting a stone wall. I plan on making my stars from 1045/1050, and sending them out for hardening b/c my forge isn't big enough.

1095 (and W-1) is probably overkill for a throwing weapon - 1045 to 1060 is probably cheaper and better (tempering would be at a lower temp to achieve same hardness). Note that Cold Steel uses 1045/1050 for their star; Houzan Suzuki uses 1045.

To only harden the tips, I think you would either have to HT/quench each tip one-at-a-time, or play with clay. Sounds like a hassle.
 
The lower carbon steels will form more of a lath martensite rather than plate martensite, which will be tougher at a given hardness. Just remember, the lower carbon stuff (as well as the very high carbon stuff) needs a longer soak at austenitizing temp. For example, a quick trip to orange with a torch won't work well with 1045.

I believe it is S7 that has an exceptional impact strength at moderate hardness.
 
My only real experience is in making MA weaponry, for us, although not exactly traditional, daito saw blades make THE BEST shuriken. Daito blades have a thicker center plate and are what seem to be the perfect hardness/memory. I've accidentally stuck them in cinder block walls with no damage. not very marketable as most ppl will recognize the radial scratches of a saw blade, but for your personal use 2nd to none. Another plus is since they're carbon steel they can be blued for that stealthy look!
 
Good idea.... is Daito a brand of circular saw blades? Google wanted to show me some I-beam cutting/drilling machines.
 
Thanks for all the info! Sorry I didn't post back sooner, I've been busy with a new photo/video studio.

Kim, all I had available was a torch so I heated the the M4 then let it cool in the air for a few minutes, then into the water. I know it's a real hack job but it's all I had at the time. Also I only did the tips. I made 2 and the one that hasn't broken has taken a lot of abuse.

sulsaMatt, I will try out the daito blade idea. Did you grind them to shape, being careful of the temper?
 
Sorry for the late post.... And thanks for the spell check :o
We just use fiber reinforced cuttoff wheels on a dremel, a slack bucket, and minimal clean-up grinding we typically blue the ones for show, and paint 3 dayglo orange for training (easy to find) This is not a quick process but, the results are reliable.
 
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