Marvel Mystery Oil - fact or fiction?

Thanks, razz, a MSDS does clear it up.

Knowing it's 50% parts wash solvent, and only 15% mineral oil, it still does what it does - and doesn't. For all those inclined to use it for rustbusting, get PB Blaster or Kroil.
 
A while back I was trying to learn how to fly Ultralight aircraft. Now imagine this....TOTAL weight of aircraft (excluding pilot and fuel)...254 lbs. Horsepower. 45. That engine has to be small and finely tuned in that application. If you suffer an engine failure..you are kinda screwed. A large percentage of the owners/pilots swore by the Mystery Oil and used it on a regular basis.................Flash
 
if they think that marvel oil is gonna save them they might see a "flash" on impact lol.
 
Razzierb said:
As to the WD40 comments ... :rolleyes: The fish oil thing is urban legend .. Here's what I picked up on the web on WD40

WD-40's main ingredients, according to U.S. Material Safety Data Sheet information, are:

50%: Stoddard solvent (i.e., mineral spirits -- somewhat similar to kerosene)
25%: Liquefied petroleum gas (presumably as a propellant; carbon dioxide is now used instead to reduce WD-40's considerable flammability)
15+%: Mineral oil (light lubricating oil)
10-%: Inert ingredients
The German version of the mandatory EU safety sheet lists the following safety relevant ingredients:

60-80%: Heavy Naphtha (petroleum product), hydrogen treated
1-5%: Carbon dioxide
It further lists flammability and effects to the human skin when repeatedly exposed to WD-40 as risks when using WD-40. Nitrile rubber gloves and safety glasses should be used. Water is unsuitable for extinguishing burning WD-40.
Click to expand...

and please note WD40 is not a lubricant, but a water displacing fluid. Once the solvent evaporates it turns to a gummy protective resin.
 
the old skool wrench monkeys I know , that remember reading articles on mystery oil back in the day , have relayed to me , that mystery oil is no better than tranny fluid.
 
Marvel Mystery and ATF? Yes - They have much the same properties as far as I know. I have used them interchangeably. However, with teens in the house grabbing oils, I don't see MMO going into their cars. It's on the shelf when I need it. :D Further, MMO is recommended for flushing motors or pneumantic lube by the maker, ATF's are not.

"and please note WD40 is not a lubricant, but a water displacing fluid. Once the solvent evaporates it turns to a gummy protective resin. "

X2. It causes more trouble in small part applications than it's worth. In most residences, the homeowner would be better off with ATF. It's 60 % detergent and stays oily.

Everyone wants to buy a spray can miracle. It's a miracle to get preventative maintenance done at all.
 
I would venture to guess , that more mechanics have used ATF to flush an engine ( I said engine , since motor's are electric ;) ) than MMO.

ATF works great to free a sticky lifter :)
 
Boat motors are electric? MADNESS :p More importantly, REAL engines are powered by steam :)
 
The original Slick-50 was fine but the owners of the actual lubricant in Slick-50 broke off relations with them in the '80s and have tried to go out on their own. The company is Xcelplus and the general purpose lubricant is Lubrilon. The original Slick-50 worked great for me as a general lubricant and I have ordered some Lubrilon from the Xcelplus website but I haven't received it yet.
 
IIRC i sold lubrilon in the mid '80s, ya added a quart to your engine oil, IIRC it cost $25 or so, even back then, imho it offered nothing over decent oils (ie penzoil, valvoline, etc) even back then...........
 
Thanks for the links. The paragraph on Zinc is a little dated - the latest spec oils don't carry much, at all, to eliminate contamination of the converter. It's not a problem with late model roller tappet engines, but has cropped up as one factor in newly rebuilt flat tappet motors failing - usually due to a wiped cam lobe. A lack of quality lifters is also involved. Lots of talk on car forums highlight adding ZDDP to older engines on late model oils, or just not using them and shopping for the previous spec. Diesel oils are often recommended, but they seem to be the next target.

PTFE clogging oil filters is old news - I use Slick 50, and have always gotten an increase, not decrease, in pressure. Granted, it is clogging up some passage ways - which is what I use it for, to increase oil pressure in old engines with 150K + miles. The benefit of reduced friction, as documented, doesn't hurt either.

A Jeep Cherokee forum has been logging anecdotal experience with snake oils. The poster starting it used to sell them, and it's been generally acknowledged that some do have value when you know what they are and what they can really do. Seafoam does what is says it will do - I use it in my lawn mowers, and it really cleans out gel deposits in carburetors stored over the winter.

The little brown pills marketed as radiator stop leak are effective - one report comes from a worker on an assembly line who puts them in new cars. Think about it: how else can you guarantee a new assembly won't leak and create a quality issue? Anyone who has installed an engine knows you will chase down a leak in the weeks following startup. Detroit just plugs in 4-6 of the pills and avoids the whole problem.

"Snake Oils" are used by pro's because they can be a good answer to a problem. The general public doesn't want to know enough to sort it out, so they just lump them together.

And spray WD-40 on everything, including their firearms . . . .
 
your joking right?

QOUTE ""Snake Oils" are used by pro's because they can be a good answer to a problem. The general public doesn't want to know enough to sort it out, so they just lump them together.

And spray WD-40 on everything, including their firearms . . . .
Reply With Quote"
 
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IIRC GM used to add bars leak at the factory i dont thinki they do any more, and havent for some time now.
 
I wish I was joking about the WD40 on firearms. In the reserves, lots of guys would bring in the little spray cans until we got that shut down. No turn-in if it smelled like it.

As for pro's using "snake oils," I sold plenty to commercial shops when working at auto parts houses, and if you look at the dealers, they stock their own on the shelf (older oil can collectors go crazy for factory labels.) If you can treat the problem successfully without expensive labor, you have a happy customer. Stop leaks have saved a lot of head gaskets, including mine.
 
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