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matches-alt striking surfaces that work?

I did a quick video showing a semi-smooth rock, a rough rock and a piece of wood. I spared you form the teeth because I didn't want my mug on video that close up :D

Seriously though, the teeth is a method I can do. It was something I learned as a kid goofing around. However, I will usually mess up 3 or 4 in the process getting one to light. It is not a technique I would use if I had a limited number of matches and HAD to get a fire going. Maybe if I practiced it more, but I don't see that happening :D

BTW, there was a question about "what type of rocks" to use. I have to admit, I don't know a darn thing about rocks :D I just look for a not too smooth, not too rough surface, and it usually works great.

[youtube]9lz0oPXJi6s[/youtube]

B
 
Hard to find the strike anywheres here in Florida also. I always like the big kitchen type matches instead of the small types. Yup using the back of your front teeth is doable for sure, I had to learn to do it after seeing it in cowboy movies as a kid. Zippers are another good striking surface.
 
Neat Video Brian!
I guess i'll have to track down some strike-anywheres so i can experiment!
I'll pop into Canadian Tire tomorrow to see if they have them.
Actually thats where i bought the Coghlans match case and i didn't see the strike anywheres in that particular store.
But there are 4 Canadian Tire stores in my city so i'll try one of the others this time.
Its too bad there is no MEC our here.
Would love it if we had a MEC, a Lee Valley, Tandy Leather and a Bass Pro or a Cabelas/Lebaron store here. lol!
Being able to just go in a buy tons of outdoor related stuff off the shelf would rock!
 
My dad showed me 2 different ways of lighting strike anywhere matches.
If your wearing jeans, bend your knee and bring your leg up so that your jeans
are tight. Strike match by drawing match from your thigh towards your knee.
Do it quickly and smooth.
The other method...you can ruin the match though, is to hold it in your right fist
and stick your thumb nail into the head and flick your thumb nail down.
You usually only get 2 tries max before the tip is ruined, but the match is still good.
When I practice them, I have a pretty high success rate.
 
Striking "safety matches" on glass:
The striking surface is composed of typically 25% powdered glass, 50% red phosphorus, 5% neutralizer, 4% carbon black and 16% binder; and the match head is typically composed of 45-55% potassium chlorate, with a little sulfur and starch, a neutralizer (ZnO or CaCO3), 20-40% of siliceous filler, diatomite and glue.
Click to expand...

I have found that a diamond-covered fingernail file is a good striker -- and has other uses.
 
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The K&M Matchcase has a striking surface on the inside of the cap - but like Brian shows - the outside of the case works great.

Indeed you need to use strike anywhere matches as the strike on the box matches use a chemical reaction. I think Ohio Blue Tips are the VERY best - but they are out of business - if you find some - hoarde those mothers.

Pick out the ones with the most white stuff on the tip (as this is the Phosphorus Sesquisulfide) and ignites when struck. There is also powdered glass mixed into the head of the match to assist in a rough surface and greater friction when struck. This glass then melts quickly and stops the ash from dropping off the match when blown out.

What you want is this:

You want a rough surface to help with friction and assist in igniting the Phosphorus Sesquisulfide. When this ignition takes place the Phosphorus Sesquisulfide burns quickly and transfers the flame to a combination of Potassium Dichromate (an Oxidizer) and Potassium Chlorate (this releases oxygen when heated) and accelerates the burning compound to the Aspen match stick.

This match stick has been soaked in MonoAmmonium Phosphate which acts to smother the flame and glow when you blow out the match.


So there you go!

TF
 
I personally have finally given up carrying matches with me. Ever since I was a Boy Scout, I have carried a match safe full of strike-anywhere matches with me but honestly its been years since I actually used them. Add to that the fact that it is harder and harder to even find strike-anywhere matches these days, and the ones I do find are pretty crappy (generally have to strike 2-3 to get one to light properly) it just does not seem worth the trouble. :thumbdn:

Nowadays I just tuck a couple good Bic lighters in my gear, along with a firesteel for emergencies. ;)
 
Lots of good info here!
I think i'll try a few of those other match-cases in addition to my Coghlan.
The K&M looks good and theres one at goinggear that i'm interested in.
Where can you buy the K&M's?
 
markhait said:
My dad showed me 2 different ways of lighting strike anywhere matches.
If your wearing jeans, bend your knee and bring your leg up so that your jeans
are tight. Strike match by drawing match from your thigh towards your knee.
Do it quickly and smooth.
The other method...you can ruin the match though, is to hold it in your right fist
and stick your thumb nail into the head and flick your thumb nail down.
You usually only get 2 tries max before the tip is ruined, but the match is still good.
When I practice them, I have a pretty high success rate.
Click to expand...

Glad to see that posted. When I was a kid that's how we did it. Use the thumbnail near the corner and give it a pop with the nail. If it didn't go after a few times it was shot. Zippers, jeans, teeth to pop it, any rough surface. Hard to find the strike anywhere matches. Last batch I bought was at a gun show. They were alot of fun and worked well.
 
Dipping a match in wax can eventually soften the match head and make it useless. At least I think that’s what happened when I used to do that.

I waterproof strike anywhere matches by laying them out on aluminum foil and spraying them with shellac. Let dry, spray again. Turnover, repeat. Waterproofing the whole match means the wood can’t get damp and then wreck the match head from the inside. Shellacked matches last longer for me than waxed ones ever did.

I used to strike wooden matches with my thumbnail. It only took one instance of getting a lump of burning phosphorus stuck under my nail to cure me of that habit.

I cut a coil of waxed paper which will fit around the inside rim of my match safe. The striker goes between two layers of the waxed paper. I’ve done that for years and never found a bomb in my pocket. As a bonus, waxed paper makes good waterproof tinder.

K & M match safes. I love them. http://www.kmmatchcase.com/
 
Still hunting for those strike-anywheres.
The two Canadian tires i checked didn't have them or were out of stock.
Two more stores to check.
Did find a Coghlan folding-metal fuel tab stove though, something new to play with! lol!
 
Sorry for reviving a dead thread, but figured that I'd add to the collective knowledge of the forum on this topic.

I was out on a hike yesterday, trying various fire starting methods. Diamond strike anywhere matches had been the bane of my outdoorsmanship, because I hadn't been able to find a consistent striking surface for them. But yesterday I found that surface. The scales of an alox Vic Swiss Army Knife get's em lit every time. These weren't spring chicken matches either. They had been in my kit for at least 5 years.

I guess that just adds to the versatility of the Vic Farmer. Cut wood with your Farmer saw. Shave tinder with your Farmer blade. Spark a fire steel with your Farmer awl. And strike a match with your Farmer alox scale.

Picture015.jpg
 
Our grocery stores here have them. At least they did a month or so ago when I bought a three pack of boxes.
 
I use strike any where matches in the woods. They have the big ones and small ones at most hardware stores. Walmart has the small ones in the checkout lines.
 
my little ezlap diamond rod works really well. I also keep a piece of 120 folded grit side in cut to fit the top of the plastic orange matchsafe I use,
 
markhait said:
The other method...you can ruin the match though, is to hold it in your right fist
and stick your thumb nail into the head and flick your thumb nail down.
You usually only get 2 tries max before the tip is ruined, but the match is still good.
When I practice them, I have a pretty high success rate.
Click to expand...


If I'm just foolinng around, I "pop" them like that with my thumbnail. I don't if I'm out and have a limited supply though, so as not to waste them.
 
When I was a kid, I used to stick strike anywhere matches down the barrel of my unloaded BB gun and then shoot them at hard surfaces - they would light on impact.:cool:
 
I wouldn't even know where to find strike-anywhere matches in this country and the standard matches aren't all that great - I wouldn't like to trust my life to them, that's for sure.

I bought 5 of these: http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3734 using their bulkrate code - $1.65 ea.
Despite being very cheap they seem to be quite reliable - but I take more than one with me just to be safe. I also have a butane lighter that I like which I also take camping. The thing I like about the mini oil lighters is that they are small and light enough to make it easy to take 2 or 3 with you and always have a backup. I also like the O-ring sealed waterproof design which stops the lighter fluid from evaporating between uses. I EDC one of these in my jeans coin pocket despite being a non-smoker.

The next time I go camping I will take my waterproof container with Vaseline smeared cotton balls - but I will try lighting a fire without them. I think I should be able to get some fuzz stick lit without too much trouble. It seems like a good idea to try different fire starting methods each night - just so that I am able to get a fire going any one of a number of ways.
 
As for availability of strike anywhere in the U.S., this is dictated by state. Many states prohibit their sale. Large grocery stores sell them in the picnic supply aisle. If you light them with your finger nail, eventually you will be cured of doing it again when you have the head of the match igniting while it is imbedded in your fingertip. Igniting them in the woods can be done on a rock with a medium rough surface. They also light well off of sharpening stones/diamond, finer files found on SAK/MTs, and pieces of deadwood with the bark missing. They are still a viable source for igniting fires, especially when used with a candle. They were all I had in the 60's and early 70's. I think that simply using them for a while teaches anyone their ins and outs.
 
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