Material for work knife?

L

Lassegas

Joined
May 20, 2013
Messages
13
Got a knife design sketched up that I like and think will work nicely for me as a work knife.
But the question is, what kind of scales should I choose for this?
I will be using the knife in all types of weather, sun, rain, slush, snow, everything. And need something thats grippy even when my hans are wet or when I use gloves.

Don't want to be doing maintenance on it all the time either, other than sharpening of course.

My first thought is micarta.


For the sheath I thinking Kydex.
Seems durable ans easy to keep clean.

I'll take any advice I can get regarding all of this :)



 
Micarta will suit you well I do believe. Natural or black look great on work knives. Not a show pony but a work horse.
 
i4Marc said:
Micarta is a good choice.
Click to expand...

viral said:
Micarta will suit you well I do believe. Natural or black look great on work knives. Not a show pony but a work horse.
Click to expand...

If you have experince with micarta, what's the best grit to stop sanding at for good grippiness? :)

And I 'm thinking slow hardening epoxy as bonding to the tang. Other potions that are good?
 
That looks like a good handy design.

Micarta, especially canvas micarta will certainly work. I prefer G10; I find it to be even more durable and resistant to moisture, goop, etc. It's also available in a bunch of colors, and some of it has a checkered-type pattern cut into one face for extra gription. I usually get my G10 from a BF dealer member called Alpha Knife Supply. This link shows the colors and styles they carry.

How fine to sand it is up to you... the good news is, both micarta and G10 are pretty easy to finish. So I would recommend taking it right up to 800 grit and see how you like it. If that's too slick for your preference, just go over it again with coarser sandpaper. :)

You definitely want to use a good 2-part, slow curing epoxy. Don't clamp the scales super-tight when you glue it up, or you can squeeze all the epoxy right out of the joint.

Another alternative that I've been working with is Gorilla Glue. No mixing, just moisten the inside of the scales, apply the glue and clamp the heck out 'em. For reasons I don't fully understand, squeeze-out doesn't seem to be a problem with GG... but you definitely want it tight, because if you have a visible glue-line, it looks terrible.
 
I want to suggest you look ay a case that the knife is farther into. I believe a case such as the one drawn will see the knife flopping around as you move.
With respect.
Frank
 
Agreed with above. 6-800 grit is a good place to stop sanding a canvas micarta handle.
 
james terrio said:
That looks like a good handy design.

Micarta, especially canvas micarta will certainly work. I prefer G10; I find it to be even more durable and resistant to moisture, goop, etc. It's also available in a bunch of colors, and some of it has a checkered-type pattern cut into one face for extra gription. I usually get my G10 from a BF dealer member called Alpha Knife Supply. This link shows the colors and styles they carry.

How fine to sand it is up to you... the good news is, both micarta and G10 are pretty easy to finish. So I would recommend taking it right up to 800 grit and see how you like it. If that's too slick for your preference, just go over it again with coarser sandpaper. :)

You definitely want to use a good 2-part, slow curing epoxy. Don't clamp the scales super-tight when you glue it up, or you can squeeze all the epoxy right out of the joint.

Another alternative that I've been working with is Gorilla Glue. No mixing, just moisten the inside of the scales, apply the glue and clamp the heck out 'em. For reasons I don't fully understand, squeeze-out doesn't seem to be a problem with GG... but you definitely want it tight, because if you have a visible glue-line, it looks terrible.
Click to expand...

I'm satisfied with the design and hope it comes out as useable as it looks.

Think I'll try the epoxy way :)
I'm a newbie at EVERYTHING when it comes to knifemaking, but I really want to learn.

Frank Niro said:
I want to suggest you look ay a case that the knife is farther into. I believe a case such as the one drawn will see the knife flopping around as you move.
With respect.
Frank
Click to expand...

Yeah, I should have written in the first post to ignore the sheath drawing.
That shouldn't even be in the photo. I was just doddeling :p

Sheath will be a bit different, and probably made from Kydex.
The knife will most likely worn on my thigh a little above knee height as the work pants we have are made kinda like that.
With the sheath in my belt it gets in the way way more often.
 
I have also been looking into some different steels for this knife.
But haven't found a good alternative since I'm a newbie at this, and don't really know which qualities to look for. So suggestions?
 
Been a long time since I've been on here.
Gotten som spare time to look into doing a knife again hopefully this winter.

So the question still remains, what type of steel would be a good fit for a work knife?
Are there any steels that are easy to HT myself?

Don't know a lot of people in Norway that does this, but that can always be sourced.
 
I would stick with something simple to use and easy to sharpen, 1075-1084 would be good.
 
If you send it out for HT 154cm if the place you find can do it. If you do it at home, 1084. 154cm is stainless and would suit the conditions you mentioned the blade seeing use in, and it will be easy to sharpen. I really like natural canvas micarta for a working knife. It starts looking kinda like Osage orange and darkens to a caramel color over time with use. I find it sanded lower than 120 grit isn't comfortable in the hands much, and kind of like it sanded to around 220 to 320 grit then oiled lightly with mineral oil. It's smooth but grippy to me. best of luck.
 
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